Feedback request on refreshing old and sagging 2nd gen suspension

Hi, I am looking for feedback and suggestions on refreshing the suspension on my 2010 DCLB SR5. I am currently at 130k miles and running an AT Habitat with around 200lb of constant gear and drawers in the bed for a total of 500lbs or so. My rear stock leaf's are sagging quite a bit and shocks need to be replaced as well. I am considering a whole refresh and this is what I believe may be a good options after quite a few hours of searching. Intended usage is daily driver, weekends on forest service roads to trailheads, no crawling or serious off roading. I currently have 245/65/R16's and may go up in size in the future but not looking to go much bigger. Long term the ultimate goal is to keep the truck for another 100k plus and keep it running as smoothly and reliably as it has so far.

Front Suspension
Bilstein 6112 with new springs set around 1.8" or I can go with 5100's to save $600 but would then have to use old springs and assemble them. Not sure if I can really justify the 6112's for my use case but having all new suspension and use old springs doesn't make sense either.
ECGS bearing

Rear Suspension
Deaver U402 Stage 2 which will raise me 2" though I am getting close to the weight range of the stage 2. Might go stage 3 to allow for more camping gear and protect for future minimal mods.
Bilstein 5160's
Extended brake lines

Thoughts or suggestions on above or in the 2-3k price range?

Thanks!

 

If you were going with the 5100s I’d get new springs for an extra $180, still $400 cheaper than the 6112s. What spring rate on the front were you thinking? On washboard your really not going to feel a lot of difference between the two, your tire air pressure will help the most.
I did the suspension upgrade thanks to this site. Started with 5100s, then 6112/5160 and then kings/BP51s.
The 6112s are noticeably bigger than the 5100s so if you like showing your truck off they look better haha.
You might want to look at upgrading your bump stops. The stock ones are like hockey pucks, wheelers super bumps or durobumps are way nicer
No experience with deavers but lots use them, I was looking at icon rxt leafs next.
Stock your rear sits 22 inches from center of hub up to fender without sagging.

 

Is your 2010 subject to the recall for leaf springs replacement on Toyota's Dime? My 06 was.

 

I'm thinking probably just go with 600lbs on the front spring, not planning on adding any weight to the front of the vehicle. Definitely something to consider on going with the 5100's and new springs compared to the 6112's. Not planning on showing them off at all, just looking for that long term reliability. I haven't found anything online to point me in the direction that 6112's would be more reliable than 5100's with light usage.

Adding bump stops to the list, thanks!


@ScrippsRanch67 as for the recall, I can check on that but I assume with my permanent weight on the truck I am going to end up in the same place I am now eventually. Thinking better to just do it right and get the heavy duty leaf pack but still something to consider for a temp solution.

 

I’d say you did your homework well. The Bilstein 6112/5160 is a good combination many people run and more affordable than some of the other racing heritage shocks. The larger diameter gives more surface for heat rejection which matters if you are on washboard roads. I like them because Bilstein stays in business by designing shocks to last 50,000+ miles whereas the high end racing heritage shocks assume you will rebuild then at a much shorter interval. Keep the height less than 2” is smart to avoid premature wear on the CV joints and avoids need for the $$$ aftermarket upper control arms.

If you’re 500 lbs for normal everyday use, then you’ll be 700 lbs or more by the time you fully load up with water, extra gas, full ice chest and other goodies plus a dog, you can’t go camping without a dog. I figure I’m close to 800 lbs cargo load on rear axle including camper shell, Prinsu rack, sliders, skids, high lift , 5 gal gas, 10 gal water , 45 liter ice chest and dog with dog supplies, stove, food, …. and more when I throw a second spare tire on top if I know I’m headed over really rough terrain and far from nearest tire store.
What I’m getting at is the weight adds up quick if you’re not weighting everything as you load. I went with the OME HD Dakars which is good at my full weight and surprisingly not too stiff when cargo is closer to 300 lbs. it is a truck after all so not expecting a Cadillac ride when empty. If I did it again I’d look at the Devers as having a better reputation to keep their arch.

This is my opinion and a post like this will likely generate a hundred different opinions.

 

Great replies with solid info.
I would recommend going with the Stage 3 Deavers for your weight. I should have done Stage 3s, though Stage 2 run awesome with my setup empty. New front springs 100% for sure! And pony up for the 6112/5160 since the motto, "buy once, cry once" is all too true.

 

@Desert Dog and @eurowner thanks for the feedback and advice on the weight, it's something I am worried about. I am worried about the stage 3 giving more than the 2" if I am lighter but I can always throw some extra sandbags if it is too high.

 

If I read it right, Stage 3 doesn’t get you more lift than the Stage 2.

 

There is another option to go with the mid weight springs for lift and add air springs that you can increase air pressure when fully loaded. Airlift and Firestone Ride Right are popular options. Might be overkill for your application, not to mention more $$ on top of the springs. For fun you can go to the Four Wheel Camper thread and read how folks are handling 1200 lb campers shells.

 

I did that and was unimpressed with the ride quality.

 

Posting additional info and embarrassing photo just so others looking for this info can find it helpful. Definitely time for a suspension refresh!

Measurements
Front Hub to Fender 20.5"
Rear Hub to Fender 19.5"