Truck sat for 3 years. How to get it started?

So I have a 2005 Toyota Tacoma xrunner that's been sitting for I'd say like 3 or 4 years because the clutch was bad so I put in a new clutch and everything put everything back together putting gasoline put in a brand new battery it start it doesn't start up but it wants to turn over but the engine won't run but when I put a gasoline rag in the throttle body it will turn on I pulled off one of the hoses to see if actual fuels coming out of it and yes there's fuel coming out of it there's got to be spark I just don't know why it doesn't want to kick over and stay on can someone help me please

 

Damn, that was difficult to read lol. Your injectors might be clogged from sitting so long. Are you able to check for codes? The gas rag in the throttle body is really not a great idea because the blade is driven by a tiny sensitive plastic motor. Also, your thread title should be updated; “HELP” is usually reserved for stranded somewhere on a road or trail

edit: so it cranks, but will not fire unless you give it gas through the throttle body bypassing the injectors?

 

Welcome to the forum

Please edit your thread title, "help" is reserved for folks stuck or broken down on the road.

Something like "Truck won't start after sitting for years" would be good and will attract the folks who can assist you.

 

Use periods/commas.

 

Mice chewed your fuel injector wiring?

 

Start with a thorough visual inspection. As mentioned after this much time, rodent damage is more than a possibility, I would suggest it's a probability.

Follow that with a code scan.

Immediate culprits that come to mind based on your described symptoms are: fuel pump and injectors. Even if the pump is working, it may not be working at capacity. Assuming that you can hear the pump, and the fuel you see coming out of <which> line is from the pump working, than a fuel pressure check at the rail would be my first step. It's unlikely that all of the injectors would gum up to the point where the truck wouldn't start. I could see it running REALLY rough, but i would think if the fuel system is functioning, you should get something like a start.

 

Did you unplug anything when doing the clutch that didn't get plugged back in?

 

Plugged every thing back in checked two times and it will run if I put a rag soaked in gas in the throttle body but once I take it out it shuts off

 

You pulled the fuel line and checked the pressure
What does the fuel look like??? …

 

The tank was empty befor I let it sit for that long all of it fluid are new

 

I checked wires .I checked lines .every thing look fine

 

How much fuel pressure you got?

 

Is the security light next to the clock flashing with the key on?

 

Look I don't know if it helps to spray some combustible shit in the engine to help start it up
not too much to hydrolock,
maybe enough to where it starts, then keeps stumbling from the shitty gas. Never tried that.

and be careful; not that you won't
Once I saw a guy on the street trying to start a dead Jeep by spraying something into the intake by the air filter. Spark plug kicked on, you can guess what happened next.

Obviously the battery has to be good.
Ideally you would've put Sta-Bil in the tank before sitting.
Because gas can go bad in a month. It will gum up. This is especially noticeable on a carb'd bike. Even if the Tacoma is not carb'd and has EFI adjusting idle automatically for you, the gas still goes bad just the same.
I don't think wasting money on higher octane would necessarily be worth it or help,

but it's probably a good idea to drain all that shit out the truck somehow, possibly siphon from the tank, dispose of it
and fill with fresh 87. And if you can figure out a way to pump it through, potentially disconnect a fuel line into a bucket, cranking with plugs out.
Any residual fuel can still spray through injectors into the engine so you want to be careful to not pool it up and hydrolock it.
Numerous ways to avoid that. Whether you suck it out the engine with a suction tool, or even crank over with plugs out and rags covering, for the compression to squirt it out (watch your eyes)
You'd hope residual oil film would keep the pistons from seizing. And it probably did, if it's turning over, by hand or manually.
But sometimes it helps to put a little bit of thin oil, such as MMO (marvel mystery oil) to do a piston soak into the ring pack to try and make sure they're moving free

Engines are hard to start after any major work, even on something that has not been apart long
so a long period of sitting is probably gonna be as hard, if not even more hard to start
and possibly smokey out the tailpipe when it finally does
If you do crank for an extended period of time, I'm assuming any excess fuel is just gonna get pushed out the exhaust valves/tract temporarily

whoops I see the tank was empty; maybe there are air pockets working their way out

pressure checks with a gauge, are typically: initial pressure test, cranking pressure test, residual holding pressure test to see what it holds and for how long; in general will hold pressure 10min; fuel pumps usually have a check valve for that, if it's not failed
or, fuel delivery rate test
which is opening the tester valve to a certain level, and measuring how much comes out. It doesn't have to be that specific.
Generally it's enough to quickly fill a big water bottle or similar; it either does or it doesn't.
If it fills the bottle quick (then stop so it doesn't spill), fuel is coming.
But, I don't exactly know off the top of my head how to properly do fuel pressure testing on the Tacoma. I've only really ever done it on vehicles with maybe one sending line.
From what I've seen on my truck, there's like 2 or 4 connections, including a return to the tank; not sure why.
On other vehicles, depending on fuel system style (return vs returnless) they have those take place at a separate $45 replaceable filter, whereas they did not give the Tacoma one

I'd also pull the plugs to visually inspect make sure they aren't soaked with fuel or anything; they're not hard to pull
sometimes cap discharge and fault clear can help

even if the tank is empty, it's still old gas in the lines all the way up to the engine (stale)
or, if idled until ran out of gas, then there's air in the system

 

My very brief and limited research says, the immobilizer cuts fuel and Ignition.
I base this on the description of how the immobilizer work.

“After the identification results show that the key's ID code matches the vehicle's ID code and the transponder key ECU has confirmed their match, the immobiliser system is canceled and the engine starting controls (fuel injection control and ignition control) enter standby mode.”​

I would focus on the fuel. I would assume you have a fuel issue, based on the fact the truck will run “on a gas rag”. Fuel to the line doesn’t prove the system is functioning. It just proves the fuel pump is pumping fuel. You need the injectors to work before fuel actually gets into the engine. My next suggestion would be grab a noid light and test for injection pulse.

 

In addition to the above.
The injectors are run off the 10A IGN fuse.
That fuse is likely good, as the fuel pump would not run if it wasn’t.
That said, I’d still unplug an injector and check for 12v on the Black/Red wire with ignition ON.

 

This forum will suggest of list of things to try. If you have the skills and understanding to troubleshoot and/or diagnose the problem, go through the list of suggestions posted. If not, take it to a competent tech or the dealer. Spend the dough for professional help, and you will be driving sooner than later.

 

FIFY, I think.......