Disable Rear E-Locker?

Sorry, that was Clippy speaking, not me.

 

I think you are confusing Auto LSD with a limited slip differential. They are different animals. Auto LSD is a system that uses the brakes to limit uneven wheel spin. All trims have it. A limited slip differential would have is a mechanical device in the diff that limits uneven wheel spin. No trim has it.

 

are you in northern canad

THANK you, Thats a proper answer
So youre saying if i depin the connector or cut it off depending on what mood im in and put a 3w resistor in place of the paper clip essentially creating a loop?

 

3 Ohm resistor is recommended
Waterproofing fully is recommended (any current leakage will trip ECU, such as from water ingress.
Either disconnecting the overhead switch or using a very high wattage (like 150watt or so) resistor is recommended

 

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Something like this or need high watt ? I will disconnect the switch again once i do this so it will always be unplugged and ill make sure its weather tight
Thanks

 

That is fine
You may find that a 10w or 50w is a little easier to work with just because the leads are a bit larger and will be a little more rugged, but a high wattage isn't needed if button is never pressed or button is disconnected so it cant be pushed

 

I ran a spool for years in my Samurai. Being a light vehicle and only running 235/75r15's, it really wasn't an issue. Although, I got lots of funny looks in parking lots when the tires barked making corners and pulling into and out of parking spots. I don't see a Lincoln Locker as a viable option for my Tacoma.

 

It was a joke. I had a Detroit locker in my old ranger prerunner which was also a daily until I rolled it. Wouldn’t mind dailying with a Detroit but I have a Harrop in my Taco now.

 

Thanks for the info and fast response!

 

My Explorer, I put one of the Ranger FX4 Torsen diffs into... that thing was useless. It would start to move the truck then let go, move then let go... a Detroit would have been killer!

How are you liking the Harrop E-Locker?

 

Damn...I just saw your thread from last year that prompted all this.
I would've tried contacting GKN for a replacement connector.

 

That’s what I’ve been thinking since mid thread. I don’t know why we are talking about fooling the 4wd ECU when the easier solution seems to be replacing the connector on the original axle. I think we are off in the weeds

 

Fix the symptoms, not the problem.

 

In the other thread, he's worried about maintaining stock appearances to pass inspection. Maybe he figured if he broke it once offroading, he'll break it again.

 

this is what I was thinking, the workaround seems to be more trouble than the actual fix.

 

Pretty happy with it. It just works. And it hasn’t blown up on me unlike the stock elocker. But I have a 2nd gen where the stock locker was kinda junk! Destroyed the rear axle/diff for good in the desert and then swapped in an open axle from a Sport, regeared and added the Harrop locker. But then I left San Diego and moved to WA, so that was definitely easier on the diff and may explain why it’s still alive lol. No fast off-roading here. It’s all slow A F forest trails or mudding, both of which suck IMHO! So I just ride dirt bikes up here and use the truck for towing/hauling/camping.

 

this is rarely ever a bad idea! you can get a beater, a SxS, ATV, dirt bike, etc that is built for the trails and cost must less to fix the few times they do break. I could put tens of thousands in to my truck and a POS $2-4k ATV will do everything better and rarely break,,, aside from cup holders, heat and A/C

 

Having AC in the desert was definitely nice. But if I can walk a trail faster than drive it, nah! I’m out! Lol!

 

Dont think you read the my whole story just what others are replying. Originally the plug was pulled completely out of wire leads coming off the coil inside the diff. The only way to access the diff lock coil is to remove the third memeber (which i stated i did after in this thread). I had a inspection date and i couldnt have any lights on to pass. This is not a matter of laziness as i took the third member out and resoldered the wires back on to the oem connector but as i also stated this didnt work therefore i took it to toyota where they diagnosed a bad coil in my locker.

So if you know of a way to solder wires back on to a connector inside a rear axle housing without pulling the thirdmember im sure many of us would love to hear

 

as i stated above, i generously simplified both post for you and others who dont understand the situation and i get it. Not much information regarding this subject yet on the net so let me be one of the first that will hopefully help anyone who may run into same issue.