Anything welding

Just a regular sharpie, always worked well. I do have soap stone as well as a "silver" type one that clicks like a lead pencil but only have those as back-ups.

Then I found Milwaukee variants last year at Home Depot, and they're cheaper too at about $1/each from singles, 2 packs, 4 packs, and larger.

They also seem to last longer and so far the Milwaukee permanent markers are my favorite.

 

I might have been welding Hotter then You!!

Using .052 wire .

 

This site has some cool welding images:

33,329 Welding Stock Vectors, Images & Vector Art | Shutterstock

 

Oops... I get to grind that out. I forgot the most important thing, verify alignment of your parts before welding fully.

and I do not have anything small enough to get in there completely. I was thinking maybe the plasma cutter would work,

 

Washing out welds with the plasma machine might take some practice it did for me .

I still at times reaching for the striker that used to be on my left side to light the plasma torch.

Depending on just how much weld needs removed my first go to was the grinder with a disc.

Most times because it was within reach.

 

Tie in those welds!

Run a little faster too, a lot of undercut but otherwise good job!

 

Damn, that's some THICC wire

 

Was planning on using.the verticle bead to tie it all im, but noticed the part shifted.

So undercut is a sign of slow travel speed?

 

Undercut is the result of too much heat applied via your weld.

Look up undercut and you'll see it in your welds.

My assumption is since you're just starting, you're implementing technique but without experience. It's causing you to move slower. With that slow movement, you're bringing a lot more heat than you would want in your metal.

 

Customer job; it's actually for my instructor as she wanted something personalized for her sister and brother in law.

Kept toying with the sign idea, but then it clicked to make it a clock instead -



Then I figured I'd use the dog bones and paw prints as my in-between numbers -



And, because I only have 10 gauge and 12 gauge...this thing is beefy as fuck



I don't know how or why, but my tool cutting speeds or something kept getting ignored. I went three times doing the first set of cuts until I fully deleted and added it again. Stupid cloud-based Fusion360.







For you CNC guys, what would you charge for this 20" diameter clock?

I already have the clock movement arriving later tonight and it was only $8. Consider that I used 4sq ft of steel so that's $12.50. Total in consumables comes out to $7 each (which have plenty of life left).

I won't add drawing time as I'm still learning so maybe just make it a flat rate added to the entire job.

I still have to primer, paint, and install the clock setup.

Would $80 be a fair price? $100?

 

I have this issue when trying to sweep a weld from a surface to the top of 3/16 plate. I was welding straps for a flatbed the other day and I was sweeping the pool from the bed frame to the strap and as I reached the corner it'd would punch through the tip. I tried lowering the voltage a bit bit I knew it was strong enough and the guy didn't care what it looked like as long as it lasted him the next 20 years till he shoved the whole truck in the junkyard.

 

Undercut is a common defect, along with penetration (lack thereof), and porosity.

I'm just a hobbyist so take my advice lightly if you read here often!

 

long long ago in school I was taught do what ever needs done to control the heat.

Weld from the outside in. As one reaches the end of the joint it is always the hottest .

I really hope you were welding the ratchets . I would love the process to be able to weld the straps to steel.

 

When I'm doing that kind of stuff I charge for my time that adds value - so like you said, not for your learning. But even if you were super experienced, it would take some time to draft and program, plus there's the labor of setting up, operating, finishing, blah blah. If it's a favor for someone, whatever. But if it's the beginning of a business, I'd really try to understand your costs (labor is a cost) and then add some fudge factor and some profit. Of course, that all has to fit in what the customer is willing to pay!

With fusion - I'm not sure where you put in feeds/speeds for plasma cutting, but a little 'foible' of Fusion is that as soon as you commit a tool to a setup, it makes a copy of that tool tied to the setup, and any change you make to it's feed and speed will not be global. Conversely, if you open up your cloud/global tool through the tool library and change feeds/speeds there, they will not update feeds/speeds in a specific setup's operation. My workflow on my mill, when dialing in a tool, is to keep opening the cloud copy of the tool, updating parameters, and then re-selecting it for the operation so my learning is going in to my 'cloud/keeper' copy of the tool. If I'm just tweaking an op because something is unusual about it, I change the feed/speed in the operation dialog box, below. those changes are saved in the "documents" copy of the tool. I hope that makes sense.



here's the tool in the operation dialog - editing stuff here changes the operation, but not your tool in your tool library.

 

Learning to estimate and bill your jobs is one of the hardest parts of your own business.

Only you know your over head and the cost of consumables . How fast the Boss spends money.

 

Been in and out of town today so only had a little bit of time to clean up the edges, drill the center hole, mock-up the clock movement, weld on a mount and stand-off, and give it a coat of primer.







Picked this paint up earlier today to use.



Used it before in a different color and I really loved the finish it left.

 

That hammered paint doesn’t need primer (it helps, but isn’t necessary). I use that shit for every garden project I make. Full exposure outdoors and never had rust or issues with peeling.

 

I used it for a hitch mounted flag holder for my FIL some 2 years ago? Now that you say that, I don't remember using primer.

Shit, that means I'll be able to paint it tomorrow night then.

Thanks!

 

I think if you read the can it says you can paint right over primer without waiting. Unless you used self etching primer, then you should wait.

 

Yep, used self-etching since I had hit the surfaces a bit with the flap disc so things got pretty smooth.

Wanting the paint to adhere as best as it can.