Really weird steering issue?

Hey all, just wondering if anyones experienced this.

Vehicle: 2012 Tacoma 2.7 4x4 Regular Cab Auto

Issue (?): When at a stop or extremely low parking lot speeds, my steering wheel feels bindy or creaky when I turn it, steering wheel turns smoothly with revs. Now, I cleaned my MAF sensor and changed spark plugs and did my best to clean the TB flap, and when I restarted the truck idle went up for a few seconds during cold starts. At that point, revs would jump up to 1k when turning the wheel at a dead stop as the engine compensated for the increased load from the steering pump. But it only did that for a few days. It feels now as though it should rev up (like it does when the ac is on) when turning the wheel at a dead stop, but it doesn’t. Any suggestions?

 

Very curious to see what in the world is up with this. It seems that many have issues with the intermediate steering shaft and the rag joint higher up in the steering, especially at low speeds. What you are describing seems weird though.

 

Yeah it’s odd. I have had to grease the steering shaft U joint BUT it feels like the engine should auto-rev to match the extra load put on by trying to steer. Like I said, it’s almost a “notch” feel in the steering wheel. Or like it’s low on fluid. But smooth as butter when I give the slightest RPM bump with my foot. I did just find another trans cooler/steering line seeping but my fluid is full.

(I’ve had to have one cooler line replaced last year bc it rusted through. Looks like it’s time for another one?)

I believe I need a new rear wheel bearing, and possibly tie rod ends or rack bushings, have a small exhaust leak, etc. I HATE Maine salty roads ugh. My truck is still less rusty than 90% of 2012s here lmao

 

There are some ujoints on your steering shaft,try spraying them with fluid film and see if that helps with the binding feeling. If it does then you'll have to replace that shaft at some point.

 

I’ve done that before when it was stiff steering. Maybe I’ll do it again but like I said it feels more like the pump is struggling and vibrating until RPMs are increased. If I don’t trade this truck in, trans cooler line, rear wheel bearing, tires, and steering shaft are on the list. I just did new front calipers too. I’m sinking a couple grand a year into the truck but it’s almost paid off. It’s just frustrating yk?

 

Wheel bearings are such a pain. Tires are of course a must-have. Won't have to do them for a while though! (Due to what I've been through with my truck so far I have a knack for looking on the bright side).

Interesting that you both mention fluid film for the steering shaft u-joint. I had binding in it May of 2021 and used WD 40 and haven't had any problems since. Not saying that is superior but it certainly seems to have helped with that. The advice that has always been given to me by this forum is to persevere and not get rid of the truck... Seems to be working out so far despite lots of cursing and frustration. To be honest, when I drive tonight I'm going to see what it's like steering at low speeds and observe rpms carefully. I had never even considered that increasing rpm would ramp up the pump.

 

Yeah I think I used white lithium grease iirc. It’s only recently started stiffening again and lasted about a year, year and a half?

I just noticed a new problem though. Climbing a snow bank in my driveway, felt like she didn’t wanna lock into first? Or like the trans was slipping and heard a whirring sound. Possibly torque converter. I’d really like to be payment-free but I’ve already got a couple grand into keeping it on the road in the last year and looks like she needs wheel bearing ($700+), alignment (and cam bolts are seized—$150?), possible rack bushings ($?), tires ($1,000), steering shaft ($500+???), muffler ($100).

 

What's the mileage? I'm curious. Steering rack bushings? I believe you could get the same energy suspension ones as mine for $62 off rockauto. Not the craziest install for just that too from what I understand. Spraying pb blaster on cam bolts every day for a week would probably aid you too, might be possible to get them to move. You can certainly get new ones for less the $100. When I replaced mine a couple weeks ago with OEM they were about $250 or so for all the hardware. I can send part numbers if that is helpful.

 

I appreciate it man! I’m at 123k miles but it’s Maine so sea salt air+road salt winters really take a toll on things. I need to replace another rusted coolant line soon. Not uncommon to see trucks as new as 2013-2014 with holes you can put your hand through on the bodywork. I’ll take a look underneath, maybe it’s tie rod ends I need. There’s a wicked pothole that’s been on the highway for a few years now, bout 5” deep and a foot long and I’ve hit it at 70 more times than I can remember. Pretty sure my tires leave pavement daily bouncing on the wavy ruts on my road too. Truck gets sideways from the bouncing sometimes

 

Update: I’m thinking it’s less to do with the steering pump and more an exhaust/engine mount vibration. I think while I turn the wheel the light pressure on it makes the vibes carry through the wheel more noticeably. This would also explain why it only happens at idle and 5 mph coasting, if I have a rough idle or because there’s something up with my exhaust. I get quite a lot of exhaust drone and vibration at certain RPMs , exacerbated by load. Wonder if one of the gaskets in the joints is going

 

The more I read the more I feel bad for all the components on your truck. I have to say I'm rooting for it to be an exhaust issue over steering or engine mounts. If you get under the truck and wiggle the exhaust is there movement? Do the bushings or gaskets or whatever look shot?

 

The reason I recommend Fluid Film over something like WD-40 is that WD-40 is designed to displace water. In doing so, it evaporates pretty quickly. Fluid Film does not and is designed to attack the number one problem with the universal joint on the steering shaft - corrosion.

 

I think there’s def a bit of leak from the exhaust gasket before the muffler, but I’m betting my vibe is U joint related. It’s worse under load and feels like I’m driving on gravel at 5 mph. Picked up some u joints but now waiting for the pb blaster to set in. Already broke a wrench trying to get the nut off. Probably snapped due to the cold lol

 

With all the rust issues you are mentioning I hope you have given the frame a thorough inspection.

As in a ball peen beating, probing and a phone based borescope inside the boxed areas.

If the frame is on its way out $ on that other stuff is better used elsewhere.

 

That is true. WD 40 was initially going to be a temporary fix for the issue of binding in the steering but ended up working long-term for whatever reason. I'm sure fluid film would have been better if I'd had some on hand.

 

Good luck. It's 7F outside right now for me so I totally understand the cold impeding progress on the truck.

 

Frames fine honestly. It’s really odd but I’m cool with it haha

 

Yessir. It’s a balmy 15 here but we got 7” of snow today

 

decided to put the u joints off until tomorrow, as I have to work in the morning, and I figure letting the pb blaster soak overnight on the nuts will help. I’m all prepped though! Crows foot adapters for the torque wrench, new moog joints in my passenger seat, pb blasted the flange nuts, marked the driveshaft/yokes with duct tape, rented a u joint press, and picked up propane for the forced air heater in the garage! I’m on another mission! Monday I installed a leveling kit with my dad in his ‘22 F150 and lemme tell ya, LCAs torqued to 250+ ft-lb underneath a truck is NOT easy with one person lol