Auto to manual swap progress

I have always wished Toyota made the long bed in a manual. I randomly checked offer up one night and saw a transmission, this is when it all stated to transition from a dream to a reality.
I spent over a year slowly gathering parts and information. This is my hunting truck it typically sits from February to August so I finally ordered the last few pieces I needed to wrap the swap up. I pulled the truck into the shop this afternoon and started tinkering on it.

UPDATE - Swap is complete. Bellow are some part numbers that might be helpful for someone in the future.

• Remote Reservoir (comes with cap and float) - 31402-20160
• Remote Reservoir Holder - 31408-60010
• Rubber Shift Boot (under the leather one) - 58280-04090
• Exhaust Gasket - 9008043036
• Trim Piece for E Brake (grey) - 5554804010B0
• Dash plugs near E Brake (grey) - 5554904010B0
• Cup Holder (black) - 58805AD030
• Clutch Flywheel Bolts - 9010510294
• Pressure Plate Bolts - 90119-A0234
• Aisin Clutch Kit with Fly Wheel (Ebay) -
  $292 CKT057 AISIN CKT-057 OE Matched Clutch Kit - Compatible with Select Toyota FJ Cruiser, Tacoma, Tundra
  CKT057
• Aisin Slave Cylinder (Ebay) - NA
• Reverse Switch Pigtail (Ballenger Motor Sports) - CONN-85947

Some other helpful info on parts.

• Clutch line, I decided to build my own. I used -3AN stainless line, ordered 8' used about 6' for fittings, two adaptors -3AN male to 10x1.00mm, one 90* -3AN female fitting and one 150* -3AN female fitting.
• Remote Reservoir line to master cylinder, Toyota was to expensive on this hose. I went to Napa and grabbed 2' of 3/8" transmission hose and 2 clamps.
• Clutch start cancel switch, sourced mine Craigslist from a part out. Check ebay, 05 to current are the same. Make sure to get the pigtail with it as the connector is not available from Toyota.
• ECM I sourced from Car-Part.com local wrecking yard had one, same year as my truck. If you cant find one or would prefer to keep yours it could be tuned to work along with adding some extra hp.
• Misc. interior parts, Car-Parts.com has a bunch.

Ill Add to this as I remember things Thanks to everyone for the helpful info along the way.

For this afternoons progress I was able to get the Auto shifter assembly and e brake assembly removed. I also installed the Manual brake pedal. Next up is removing the spot welded bracket for the auto e brake assembly and drilling for the clutch pedal bracket. Once that is in I’ll start mounting the manual style e brake assembly.

I didn’t take much for pictures but thought I’d share the progress.

 

Heck yeah brother.
Make it how you like it.
BTW, We got the same first name.

 

Sweet. I completed my manual swap a couple years ago. It’s been great. I’m really happy I made the swap.

 

Subbed and look forward to the results.

My only complaint about the DCLB. Wanted the manual but the extra bed room was a necessity. Took me a good while to get used to driving an auto. Can’t tell you how many times I left footed the brake. Always makes for an exciting moment. Still have my original 92 Toyota pickup in the garage if I get the itch to drive a manual.

 

I have no idea, because I didn’t research it, but will the driveshaft fit?
Or will you need a new one?

 

I’m excited for the outcome. I believe I’ll have to have the rear shaft shortened 1”. My plan is to get it all in and operational then send the ecm out for reprogramming and the driveshaft out to be shortened.

 

Did you get the manual version of the engine ECU?

That’s the route I went. Found it for $120 on car-part.com. I didn’t have to have it reprogrammed at all. I used the paper clip method to reset the immobilizer.

 

No I was planing to have it reprogrammed. Maybe I should look into just a manual ecu instead. Does the mileage stick with the ecu or cluster?

 

The cluster.

 

There is no way I know of to flash an auto PCM to a manual calibration file, @JustDSM has made an auto PCM work in a manual with HP Tuners but I'm not sure what it took.

Mileage is stored in the cluster so no worries there.

 

I have talked with Justin and he said no problem at all to make it work. If I stumble across a manual ecu and the price is right maybe I’ll give that a shot.

 

Yea tuning would probably be the cheapest route, manual PCM's are double to triple the price of auto PCM's.
I bought a spare used one for mine just to have one on hand when I decided to tune it and it was about $200.

 

not trying to steal the thunder of this swap but as I read cfcarpenter story at first place he want to swap auto to manual for 6feet bed but in my case how hard to swap 5 feet bed into 6 feet bed?
any difference of length the frame for 5 into 6 feet bed? or is gonna be straight forward swap of the bed. Thanks

 

Hells yeah, OP! Someday I’d love to do this to my ‘16.

 

One last little burst of ambition tonight. Clutch pedal is installed.

 

All the short beds I’ve seen the difference in bed length appears to be between the cab and rear wheels. I’m guessing the frames and related driveshafts are different.

 

We need pictures bro

 

Brake pedal comparison

Auto e brake bracket

Clutch pedal installed (hard to get a good picture with all the wiring in the way)

 

Can anyone confirm that a access cab ECU will work in a double cab? I found a ECU from an access cab fairly local to me, if it will work in my double cab it will save me a little coin.

 

PCMs don't go by cab size, they are listed by drivetrain type and year model.