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Are power windows even a possibility in a regular cab?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by schleppy, Dec 8, 2006.

  1. Feb 13, 2011 at 12:18 AM
    #21
    ouyin2000

    ouyin2000 Well-Known Member

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    Toyota still doesn't offer heated mirrors in any tacoma model at all.

    Get with the times, people!
     
  2. Feb 13, 2011 at 12:38 AM
    #22
    HomeGrown

    HomeGrown Well-Known Member

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    If I wanted power windows and/or locks in my reg cab I'd look into retrofitting the mechanism from a C or D cab truck.
     
  3. Feb 13, 2011 at 2:09 AM
    #23
    BartStar

    BartStar Well-Known Member

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    Ditto! I agree! I hate power windows too, more things to go wrong, they are a problem in the winter with ice sticking and they are hard to control and stop, I never use the cruise control and maybe one day out of the year I use the ac.
    I wish they made the double cab with crank windows, no ac, no cruise, but with fog lights, thats the perfect truck for me!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egbnCIK3_CU
     
  4. Mar 7, 2011 at 7:09 AM
    #24
    Ronus americanus

    Ronus americanus New Member

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    There is not much info on power windows and door locks upgrades for 2nd generation Tacomas. I am new to Tacoma World and thought I would share my recent do it yourself project. I own a 2007 Tacoma Prerunner single cab. I was disappointed when I bought it that it did not have power windows or power door locks. In sunny southern California, power windows are a very nice feature, particularly on a nice day while driving alone, a must to lower the passenger side window. I started by buying the Spal deluxe 2 door window kit. I was lucky to find a new one on ebay with switches for $95.00. I also live near an electronics surplus outlet "All Electronics" where I picked up some power actuators $5/each and wire for about $10.00. I purchased 2 power door lock switches on ebay for $12.00. I've posted some pictures of my install and would be happy to answer any questions if any members have any.:p
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=91590&stc=1&d=1299509449
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=91591&stc=1&d=1299509449
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=91592&stc=1&d=1299509449
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=91593&stc=1&d=1299509449

    Inside doop panel.jpg
    Door actuator.jpg
    inside door finish.jpg
    switches finished.jpg
     
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    #24
  5. Mar 7, 2011 at 7:47 AM
    #25
    kahanabob

    kahanabob Well-Known Member

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    Very clean job Ronus..I did the same to my dakota 15yrs ago still working. think this is the only option.
     
  6. Mar 7, 2011 at 8:11 AM
    #26
    Deathbeard

    Deathbeard Well-Known Member

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    I have power windows the previous owner installed
     
  7. Mar 9, 2011 at 9:43 PM
    #27
    pinktaco808

    pinktaco808 Hot Steppa

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    how much did it cost for everything power window and locks???
     
  8. Mar 9, 2011 at 9:51 PM
    #28
    pinktaco808

    pinktaco808 Hot Steppa

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    what the name of the part covering the crank handle hole???
     
  9. Mar 10, 2011 at 6:32 AM
    #29
    Ronus americanus

    Ronus americanus New Member

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    The Spal power window kit includes almost everything you need, a complete kit. Only exception is switches and wire. As I mentioned earlier, I was lucky to get the deluxe window kit with a Spal switch kit as an extra in the ebay auction. I highly recommend getting the Spal window switch kit as well. It makes everything complete and easier to install. The switch kit runs around $50. Now, regarding the door locks, I basically put together my own kit from scratch. To do this, I bought 2 actuators, 2 switches (ebay), wire and made my own cable converters from scratch. Cable converters allow you to attach the actuators to the newer cable drives. There are a few posts on the internet about the installation of these. Toyota uses cables now instead of the older rod mechanism. You can find these cable adapter kits on ebay for around $10 each. you will need one for each door. Aside from the $127 mentioned above, I bought extra wire from the home Depot that I think ran an extra $30 for the door locks. The door lock switches have five terminals each for 5 wires and I needed to connect from one door to the other to be able to operate the passenger door from the drivers door. I bought about 12 feet of each color but only needed about 9 feet. All in all, I think I spent about $160 for everything. If you are unfamiliar with electrical/mechanical things I would strongly recommend buying a door locks kit as opposed to putting one together from scratch like I did Hope this helps.
     
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  10. Mar 10, 2011 at 6:51 AM
    #30
    pinktaco808

    pinktaco808 Hot Steppa

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    anyone know the name of the part that cover up the crank handle hole??? the black plug???
     
  11. Mar 10, 2011 at 6:58 AM
    #31
    pinktaco808

    pinktaco808 Hot Steppa

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  12. Mar 22, 2011 at 11:50 PM
    #32
    pinktaco808

    pinktaco808 Hot Steppa

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    sticky this for sure
     
  13. Mar 23, 2011 at 1:54 AM
    #33
    Jefenator

    Jefenator Taco Truck Noob

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    FWIW I would have paid extra to NOT be stuck with all that factory power BS. :p (Turns out, I saved about $4K.)

    But DIY w/ a swiss-made kit? Get the driver door rigged w/ keyless for $150? This I could almost do. Yet another awesome, eye-opening thread. :)

    I probably won't do the window thing, though I must admit it would be handy on the passenger side.

    If I were to do it, I think it would be cool to keep the handle on for manual backup. And to freak people out. :bananadance:
     
  14. Mar 23, 2011 at 6:34 AM
    #34
    Tacoyota

    Tacoyota senile member

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    100% false.
    Learn the worth of things and Stop embarassing Canada with poor representation.
    I had the full deal in my last truck auto doors ,locks etc, i found the manual locks and windows great. They are quite easy to use.

    If you still have complaints , tell toyota thier manual powered ignition key, manuallly turned steering wheel, manual opening door, non automatic glove box, manual adjusted steering column, non auto blinker, manually operated 4x4 dial .......etc places your rig in the worthless catagory too due to no automatic everything.
     
  15. Mar 23, 2011 at 9:39 AM
    #35
    Syncros

    Syncros Well-Known Member

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    I have an Access cab right now and I want a Regular cab. Im used to driving my '82 SR5. Some people don't care about the extra dry space, even if we did.. a Canopy is $1200, a Dry box is $200, a rubbermaid tote is $8, lots of options here. They never sold the 2nd gen Reg. cab here, see used ones once in awhile but I ended up with the access cab.

    Reg. cab has so many advantages if you don't need the extra seats.
     
  16. Mar 23, 2011 at 2:54 PM
    #36
    Tacoyota

    Tacoyota senile member

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    I agree. especially the 35' or so turn radius up in the woods.

    AC or DC makes sense for many, with pets wives n kids n such.My truck sees 2 people except going to work, then just me , rarely 3, i find it roomy enough even at 5'10". I have the luxury of being able to easliy reach across. Hunting trips do fill the bed half way. I love 19-20 mpg in town.
     
  17. Mar 23, 2011 at 5:54 PM
    #37
    pinktaco808

    pinktaco808 Hot Steppa

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    chee heee
     
  18. Jul 17, 2011 at 11:28 PM
    #38
    pinktaco808

    pinktaco808 Hot Steppa

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    is there the switch to roll up the passenger window and unlock the passenger door?
     
  19. Dec 5, 2011 at 5:10 PM
    #39
    Rye

    Rye .

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    Gonna do the locks. Can anybody tell me if the manual lock can still be used with the electric installed/

    found it, that would be - yes
     

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