Am I reading this resistance result correctly?

Does this equal 413,000 ohms?

 

Yup. The k next to the omega just means multiply the number by 1000.

 

Thank you. This is my ECU ground to ground resistance per FSM instructions. Just wanted a reality check. I seem to have a black hole when it comes to electrical testing.

 

That’s interesting. Make sure to touch your leads together, they should measure zeroish (or something low like 1) when shorted together.

between what points was that measurement taken?

 

I hope you're measuring something wrong, otherwise that's a pretty poor ground.

 

Agree with above. That looks like either a really poor connection or something is wrong with the meter.

 

If I check it from different places it changes. That check was from the door hinge. If I move it to the door bolt, closer to the engine, it drops to 62k. Checking it from ground in the engine bay, it's 0. All of these are clean, bare metal spots.
The ones that read high are bouncing around, as though whatever is the problem is active?

 

So if I've got this correct, I'd be looking for an open circuit since I am not having a parasitic drain? & it would be somewhere not in the engine. O2 sensors, to start.

 

You're measuring ground to ground resistance? As in, battery negative to somewhere on the frame?
Assuming that's the case, the resistance should be pretty low wherever you measure from.

 

Any resistance from the any of the ECM ground pins should be 0

Door hinges and the door hardware make very poor grounds unless all the paint is removed down to bare metal

Pray tell just what are you trying to trouble shoot?

 

yes. As I stated they are clean bare metal. The bolt is practically new & the door hinge I cleaned off a spot to check other things through the ECM. Seemed to work fine.
Still hunting down my idle….

 

Correct. That is what I‘m doing. The FSM states under 1ohm.

 

Your trouble shooting a idle problem via the door ?

What you should focus on is the ECM ground Pins on the ECM to the ECM Ground under the data link connector on the engine.

Then from there to the negative battery cable end because it should be disconnected .

 

This is the FSM instruction - I also checked the bolt I was using as a ground & it was getting over 12v. However, if the FSM is steering me wrong, it'd be good to know....

& yes. I have been chasing this. Thought I'd do what I could to check the ECU itself & this is what the FSM had.

 

Is your engine off when you're taking that reading?

 

Resistance, yes. Nor had it been running since the day before.

 

Okay, just wanted to make sure. Key off and everything before you ohm something.

 

Are you able to find a ground point closer to the ECU and measure there? I thought there were some body/ground bolts pretty close to the ECU if I remember correctly.

 

If you're not sure if something is a good ground point, you can use the continuity feature on your multimeter to find one. The instructions below are from the manual for your model multimeter. Basically, put one lead on battery negative, and the other lead where you want to check for ground. You should get an audible beep when you hit a good ground point. Then you can use that ground point to check the ECU connection.

 

I'll look it up. I have to go into the wiring manual anyway. As I'm flailing around, I've been focusing on the downstream O2 sensor. If nothing else, I'll hopefully learn something? It was late last night when I checked it in my haphazard way. Just taking whatever readings.
From what I can tell, the voltage signal wire is hot. The ground signal wire is not. I'm going to go check it again. Question - should the hot wire get both pos voltage & ground voltage? I think I got around 10v pos battery voltage & then .76v neg (ground). Putting "I think" because it was late & I shoulda packed it in by then....