Home Improvement Today?

If you can, find a real salesman who actually knows what he is selling.

We bought one about 5 years ago, the salesman was in his 70's. He asked questions and came up with a list of ones to test out in the store.

Ultimately he steered us towards a middle priced mattress, not the most expensive one.

If you and your sleeping partner are of significantly different weight or softness preference it is tougher, a good salesman can help.

 

My wife and I have been on a Tempur Pedic for over 15 years and we love it.

 

If I was going to start over I'd go with the clamp style. Seems like 70% of my crimps are in awkward places that the tool won't fit in. I think the clamp style might be easier to use.

(side note - the hack plumber that did the pex in my house apparently couldn't be bothered with doing the crimps correctly. I've found crimps where 50% of the ring wasn't in the tool, crimps where the tool wasn't 90 degrees to the PEX and lord only knows what is buried in the walls, but not a single leak or problem, so far.)

 

Thanks for the info.
The kit came with a Go/No-Go gauge.
Which was one of the reasons I got the crimp kit over the clamp.
The clamp just came with a clamper only.

And of course, neither Lowes or Home Depot has the gauge to buy separately.

I’ve been reading and studying on the proper use and installation.
Kind of odd that all the instructions say “If the Go gauge fits at any one spot, the connection is secure.
If yours have one spot that the gauge fits, I guess you are ok?

 

well that's a relief

 

Passed our structural engineer's rebar inspection for our Phase 2 footings today , building department inspection scheduled for tomorrow , pour concrete Friday

 

Damn it Peter, I can’t get people who lay concrete for a living to do it right and here you are…

 

Short day. Got the fridge panel installed. First time installing just a plain 3/4" plywood panel. Others have all had a narrow face frame attached. Had to scribe for a noticeable hump in the drywall right near the switch box. Came out nice. Used the cutoff piece from the tall filler strip as a cleat along the inside edge. No studs so I used wall anchors. Hit the screw heads with a sharpie. Did get a screw in the bottom plate. Pinned the panel along the back edge with some 2" brads. Toenailed a trim-head screw in the front edge. Feels nice and secure. Also cut the back panel and corner trim for the island (I'll glue/install that tomorrow) and applied silicone (per flooring instructions) along the edges of the floor. I'll start on other limited trim tomorrow. May pre-cut all of the custom toe kicks so all surfaces can be stained. Customer stil hasn't made a decision on hardware.

 

And every piece of rebar has caps on it. Even the horizontal ones. Try getting a mexican crew to do that.

 

So, spitballing with tonered and he said I might be able to do 2x4's (I think 2x6 for the double overlaps) under each joist along that wall. Contemplating that option as I order up some stud shoes. I do appreciate your eye and @theesotericone 's help and suggestions.

 

More foundation repairs at the resurrection

Not sure how you pour a foundation wall that goes up and down 1 5/8" but apparently its possible lol

we've formed a level height , cut off the old anchor bolts , ground and cleaned the surface , drilled and epoxied in new redi rod for anchor bolts and seismic hold downs and are adding a grouting mixture to level for our wall sole plate

 

What are you using for grouting your sole plate level? Ardex or something like that? Looks like your going from nothing to an 1" to 1 1/2". Just wondering what your plan is to keep it from flaking off where it gets real thin.

 

Portland non ferrous expanding grout with a bonding agent

 

Figured there would be a bonding agent in there. Sink some tapcons and leave the heads up to 1/2" below your top of level grout as "mini rebar" anchors, helps to hold that grout in place along with your bonding agent.

 

Looking good, Mark!

 

Mag vent looks awesome. Super beefy. Instructions say to make sure dryer is aligned but that’s my trouble. Stud in the way. Do I kingstud the mofo while I have the wall open? But electrical and now steam water are right there so kinda screwed on alignment. Floor vent for the win?


ignore the Halloween glow sticks which subsequently spilled on the floor as I tried to retrieve them.

 

IIRC you can be up to 2" off centre with the MV-180

 

Yeah, and my setup is about 3-4" off center with a wall preventing me from moving the dryer over (unless I can convince my wife to let me demo the closet and stuff in a 4th toilet someday).

Or maybe the dryer is 6-8" too wide, hah. Definitely true, had to take the door off to get it in the laundry room.

I think that's the primary reason why it sticks out as much as it does, the kink in the exhaust. Hence a bottom vent might be stealthy.

 

Do what your plumber did and just cut the stud out....

 

and when you run for coffee later, ask the starbucks barista to confirm the joist load calculations your plumber ran.