Anything welding

Just swap it

 

Lol it was after 5pm and local welding supply closes at 4:30pm. Tomorrow haha

 

I just go by wear as compared to a new one, but... depending on how you order consumables you may get them in sets anyway, so maybe no need to be a cheap a$$ like me.

If I am not going to change the tip when I change electrode, I check the inside for arcing damage, check the hole in the tip for dross specs by running a piece of MIG wire through and blowing air, then I clean the flat end with a scotch pad to remove tarnish. Of course, the hole diameter is critical too.

The arcing damage has been in my case from excess moisture and is more than just discoloration. The electrode will have matching damage showing that current is jumping from electrode to tip (not good). Its normal to see some darkening in there, but matching pitted electrode marks means problem. I'll see if I can update this with a picture later. I think I have some I can salvage from recycle bin.

 

First electrode I replaced was after running 1/4".

A tip I know when to replace, but was mainly curious if others replaced their electrode at the same time or not.

I'll dig my electrode out later today and post a pic. What prompted me to replace it was the arc wasn't firing exactly as how it was when brand new. Pulled it off and you can see how messed up the end was.

 

I'm still learning as I go, so take this as coming from an "advanced beginner".

I haven't been resetting the pierce and cut time in FireControl because I changed tips regularly (and confirm electrode) and would have to start tracking manually anyway, so I am trying to just learn to go by cut quality and condition of the tip/electrode. Guys who rarely change metal use the counters in the bottom RH corner of FCtrl. Once they know wear rate based on machine, cut settings, and consumable durability they claim just replace based on the number to minimize scrap risk.

Here are bad and good images from before and after I added additional air drying. See the nice swirl pattern produced by swirl ring on the left, but the damage and lack of swirl on the right. I believe water droplets were causing arcing between the tip and electrode up inside the tip.


Here is what the inside of the tip looked like with arcing:


That arcing can cause erratic and poor cut quality and torch mis-fires.

Here is a tip I replaced that had enough wear to cause a pretty big divot but was still performing well and the inside showed minimal signs of arcing after getting moisture content down. I just felt it was getting risky pushing it any further. Electrode also showed no signs of damage.



Here is a tip(40 amp)/electrode pair I have cut about five or six fairly detailed signs. They are showing signs of wear, but it's normal looking and they are still cutting very cleanly on 16-18 gauge.



I know you were asking more about electrodes and from what I have read and seen 1/16" deep divot in the hafnium is about when it should be changed. That's half of it's total depth 1/8" depth, so I guess one could be pushed a bit more if still firing in the center (like my pic above) and producing good quality. Maybe short runs, but long runs and/or expensive metals would be risky.



If I was going to cut the same thickness metal day after day, I'd probably use the counter in FCtrl and just start changing them based on usage. Basically, like the commercial guys do. But as an amateur who changes tips/metal gauges/ demands on the consumables pretty regular, I just feel like I am better off learning to watch, judge, and replace as needed.

Again, just my novice $0.02.

 

That electrode shown above got me two more low complexity signs and now it's toast and going in the recycle. Signs cut perfect though.


BTW the missing sections of letter are Kubota font.

 

Will get back to reading everything posted but thanks for all the info!

Just got home and making those mounts for said customer. He wanted another set of motor mounts too so knocking those out real quick.

 

Hope you swapped it! Shop is closed now

 

I did not lol got stuck doing other things. Like washing the truck and being otherwise very lazy

 

I never wash my rig

But yeah I hate running out of gas; got 3 bottles for that reason

 

Was looking at some Fusion YouTube stuff and saw a cool demo of the fabrication manufacturing tab... then realized it's a paid extension. $33/day. OOF. Shucks - looked pretty cool for you cnc plasma folks!

 

I put in my 1hr of work today, I'm good

No work until Sunday.

But what is it exactly?

 

I'm curious, too.

The free version allows the use of the manufacturing tab.

Can you link the vid?

 

Yep!

Cool to see all the 'tool' types available to set up in the library.

 

Let's say you are making a big assembly of various thickness plate (a bumper?), some flat cut-out parts, others bent (but with flat patterns), the "flat pattern study" will take all parts of the same thickness, flatten them, and arrange them efficiently on to a piece of stock of your size choosing, ready for you to cam up for your cnc plasma cutter. Here's the video...
https://youtu.be/K48jnAziISw?t=1155
The video is mostly about cnc machining but the flat pattern study caught my eye...

 

Lol my son graduated from the car seat to a booster seat so I started vacuuming. Then it snowballed from there haha. Basically detailed the whole interior then washed the exterior. The wife was happy about it haha.

I only have one bottle for tig and one bottle for mig. I don't have much more room in my garage haha.

 

Shiiiit....I'll be dealing with that in the near future

Baby shower this Saturday; it's our first

 

Congrats!!!

 

Thanks!

It's why I've been doing less side work welding and more side work cutting shit on the table

 

Nice congrats man! I have two my son turns 6 next week and my daughter just turned 2 on Monday.