Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Does anyone know the trick to engage 4wd on a second gen electronic tcase? I’m assuming it won’t work with the front actuator gone. Briefly read something about grounding a wire, but not sure past that…

 

I believe some have removed the actuator and gone to cable shifters on the case to get rid of the electronics but not having do the fj case swap.

 

Alright I’ll try to do some more digging on a mechanical swap for the electronic hickey booger. I don’t feel like doing an FJ swap. If I’m swapping anything like that I’m starting from the front back with shit that’ll work for a bouncer/buggy

 

You know the answer, starts with A and ends with As(s)!!!

Related note, have you flexed that beast out with the wheeled turned at full lock? Are you going to have to dove tail the front?

 

If it’s LS/TH400/Atlas then yes haha

haven’t stuffed it at full lock yet. Dropped the axles off to be geared yesterday, so when those get back I’ll see what I’m up against. I’ll be all in the front fenders, but hopefully not into the frame.

 

Go buy a tcase out of an FJ or 5th gen runner. They’re $400 and bolt right in. Then sell the parts place your tcase for the same or more. They sell the electronic ones for way more because of the motor and actuator on them. Manual case bolts right in with no driveshaft modifications on 2nd gens.

 

I’ll crawl under my FJ and see if it looks the same and will fit my crazy crossmember. Really don’t want to do it. I want to trick this stupid bitch into working.

 

I think I found it. @Pdugan6 did it on his second SAS. Gonna link it here so I don’t forget lol

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-do-you-trick-ecu-to-engage-4wd-after-swap.755521/

 

The out side case is dimensionally the same. Few differences like a hole for the actuator but everything else is essentially the same.

 

Knew I saw the cable thing somewhere.

 

Somehow looks more complicated than the FJ swap haha I was hoping it would be a “ground this wire” situation. I don’t care if it stays in 4wd, just need to be able to switch between lo/hi.

 

That’s good news. I think the spline count is even the same for the autos, so that makes life easier. Still don’t want to do it though

 

its the easiest solution. only "fab" work would be getting the shifter into the right location. also, have to move sensors from stock tcase to fj case

 

Are the sensors a direct swap or need to be spliced?

 

direct swap. the fj cases has wires with a connector coming off the sensors and they don't plug into the Tacoma. just have to take the sensors off the back off the Tacoma case and put them into the fj case. the fjcase has 3 sensors but you will only swap 2 over. i just reused one of the sensors as a plug with the wires cut off of it. the sensors do have to go into the right spots based on the connectors on the harness.

 

Well dang. Doesn’t get any easier than that. I love shifting in the FJ, too. Such a cooler feeling than turning a knob haha

 

@ToyRyd04
What's the bump can OD measurement, 2.25"?

 

Yep 2.25" is the hole saw size I used when making the mounts. Had to massage the hole just a tad but not much. I notice the cans have the slightest taper going down.

 

Upper link with a bend in it to clear a crossmember, heims on both ends or does one end need to be a bushing to keep it from flopping, and if so which end bushed?

 

I've seen most guys do The bushing on the frame side