Questions on cleaning up some bed/cap wiring

Hi and thanks in advance. I'm looking for some input on a springtime project, cleaning up some wiring mess between my bed and cap (22 DCLB Off Road, Leer 100XR).

Right now I'm planning on re-running power to the rear, adding Switch's taillight aux panel, removing the OEM bed lights (which have been useless for me), and installing 2 of Switch's bedside switch panels to house a pair of 3-way rocker switches, 12v DC, and USB outlets. In the process, it would probably make sense to remove the TAG fuse box in the cap.

Cap installer tapped the drivers door for the power lock, even though I installed the OEM power tailgate lock. Planning on replacing that with your t-harness so I can cut down on unnecessary wear on the solenoid.
• Do I need a fuse between the t-harness and Leer lock? Installer has an in-line fuse currently.

Installer already cut & spliced the brake wire.

• Would you recommend repairing that and using your brake-T, or consider the damage done and just work with that? In either case, would I need a fuse inline to the 3rd break light? Believe the TAG box is providing this now.

• Do you happen to have, or know the part number for, the covers I'd need for the wiring harness ends left in the tail light cavity when removing OEM bed lights?

I'm going to need to settle on 1-2 connectors to use between bed/cap for a disconnect. Something robust to dirt/moisture, but not to difficult for a rank amateur to get the hang of crimping, pinning, etc. • Would you have a recommendation on a connector type that fits the bill?

Apologies for all the questions. I very much appreciate any advice you're able to give.

Best,

B

 

We mostly like Deutsch flange connectors for the bedside.

tough call on the brake tap. @Puppypunter, what would you do here? Ideally cut off the end and crimp a terminal on? I could send three 20 gauge terminals and seals to you. Then you would just have a shorter Oem harness but the T would make up the length.

TAG fuse box has fuses for lock and unlock.

if you have T taps inside the cab I’d disconnect the feed and leave the tap. I have some in my own truck from a stupid karr alarm I had to remove.

did I miss a question?

 

Oh, ask @Jeff Lange for cover question in the 2020 parts thread.

 

It is a tough call on the brake tap. That's not the worst tap job in the world. Not the best, but not the worst either.

The wires there rarely get jostled, so I'm of the personal opinion that it's optional. But if I wanted to tear down and redo the tap, a self soldering heat shrink is my new go-to. It's reasonably strong, durable, and water tight. And it's easy.

 

Yeah I include those style of connectors in all the stuff I send with bare wire. They are easy and very good in my opinion. A definite option to redo. If so, no need for a T, it’s just extra connectors.

 

You sure didn't, and I got this useful bit too...

"if you have T taps inside the cab I’d disconnect the feed and leave the tap."

Thank you (and Rock Lobster) for the advice! Looking forward to tackling a new project with a little bit of confidence.

Best,

B