Long Travel BS Thread

I got creative with bending the bracket when I did the tundra axle because the larger diff was hitting it. Then when I did the back half and added up travel I just ditched it entirely and wrapped up the wiring neatly to protect it

 

I couldn’t solve this issue either. The only possible fix to this is this :


Ford 9 with a Detroit locker. Problem solved.

 

I suppose I could just get rid of the bracket completely and just let the cables dangle. My stock diff hits it as is and full droop I need the bracket pretty much pointing down - opposite of stuffed.

Well yeah that’s one way to do it.

 

When I had sua (granted I only had 12” of travel), but that’s how I did it. Just left the full bracket unbolted. Also yeah it really is the best way…

 

Was referred to ask here about people’s experience with the JD fab steering slide rack. I just got mine in the mail for my BTF LT ‘07. Got pics?

 

Pics of my install are here.
https://www.flickr.com/gp/19843514@N03/dh00877450

 

Is your bypass kit from JD?

 

It works great as far as not breaking racks. However depending on how you use the truck you will still have to replace racks as they just wear out internally instead.

Obviously a box is ideal. But there is no easy solution to convert over. And there likely never will be.

 

Everything up front is JDFab.
Edit: Some of the pics in that album show my old mid travel kit which is from Total Chaos. Some of the pics at the bottom show the JD kit going on, But with a fox coilover I used till my kings showed up about 4 months later.

 

My current one had 300k miles on it, beat the crap out of it and didn’t kill it, I don’t imagine I’ll kill this one any time soon

 

I figured. I think the pic I saw was one of the last few.

I really wish I had that kit. The one I have I don’t think was designed very well. First no backing plate where it mounts to the frame (sure I could have added that) and it limits my uptravel by at least an inch. Bypass bottoms way before the coilover.

 

Yeah I was breaking at minimum 2 a year. So you’ll be perfectly fine if you’re keeping them alive that long.

 

Change your rod end

 

Ah. So just a shorter one of the bottom mount?



Side note. New shocks sure look good.

 

Yes you need a welded loop, my guess is you have bypass hoops for over cap shocks

 

This is what I have now with those shocks.

 

These. Need to be welded to shafts.

 

Any recommended shops that can do that? I can pull the shock apart and ship them somewhere. All I have is mig and I feel like that’s not the right tool for the job.

 

Just order shafts that are welded already. Down South has always treated me great for parts

 

You can send the shocks to King and they will do it too