My 2006 Tacoma brake upgrade (EDITED!!)

No worries, I'm not exactly ready to tackle this project yet. My brakes are still fairly good up front but I do plan on towing a small camper with my truck down the road. I may just swap all of this stuff to help with braking while towing and just in general, better brakes are always a good thing. Thanks for the info guys

 

@YamaDirtrider lines received! Awesome job!

 

If anyone is looking for gx460 rotors for the bbk upgrade, I’ve got a set ready to ship.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fs-ebc-rotors-and-rear-drum-kit-conus-shipping.791947/

 

Most Tacoma owners that only changed the rotors and calipers report a spongey brake pedal with a loss of brake performance.

Bigger calipers have bigger pistons (usually) and without moving more fluid with a larger master cylinder (larger piston) the brake pedal will have to move further to move those larger pistons with the same force on the brake pad/rotor as a smaller master cylinder piston could. So when there's more fluid moving the pedal will have to be pushed harder to get the same amount of pressure on the pads OR you put a bigger booster on to do the additional work.

It's a total package deal, you either do the whole (easy) job or you get disappointed.

 

I get it, and will most likely do the full swap down the road more for towing purposes. I want the best braking I can get if I'm going to be towing without going full BBK. I don't have the cash or need for all that. This seems more doable.

 

re energized to do some work on my truck and read through this thread. If we are still looking for a few more people to get another set of GB lines made count me in!

 

That's the reason I did the upgrade (for towing). My truck tows boats often. The truck stops excellent.

 

Do you have trailer brakes as well on yours?

 

2009 and later had M12 fittings on the master cylinder. 2005-2008 used M10.

I can probably make a run of the soft lines (in either M10-M12 or M12-M12) in Stainless Braided for about $60/set shipped...let me know if there's any interest.

 

No I do not. I can tow a boat up to around 3,000 lbs and it makes absolutely no difference in its stopping ability. To date it's towed a max of 6,800 lbs.

 

Thanks for all the detailed info OP! I just finnished my truck and the results were good like you explained. I just did the booster and MC. I might do the 4 runner calipers and discs in the future if needed. I probably need to bleed more too, however the brakes are not "Im going to die" brakes anymore. I have driven a second gen for 12 years and the brakes were always soft compared to the first gen and my firends 3rd gen. Again, thank you for the time you put into this. Im sure a bunch of TW members appriciate it.

There are two things I would like to share. First is that my Tundra booster did not come with a vacume check valve. I needed to use the Tacoma unit. They are diffrent sizes. The Tacoma is larger. The fix for this is to buy a Tundra check valve. Second, is no one has mentioned which brake pressure port is which. The origional tacoma lines happen to line up (forward and aft) to the new MC.

 

When the brakes are bled some sort of computer thingy needs to be hooked up to it due to the ABS module. If the thingy isn't used you'll never get all of the air out of the lines. My apologies on my crap memory, I can never remember what the computer thingy is called.

 

Toyota Tech stream will do it, you can find devices online but it’s still cheaper to just take it in and have the dealer do it so if something messes up, it’s on them not you

 

Thanks a bunch for the info. I bled them from the bottom up , the bled the MC to the new unions. They feel good now. This weekend my brother in law will come over and we will use his scanner to actuate the ABS solenoids and bleed again.

 

Meh, just find some gravel road and mash the brakes a few times.

 

You do you boo boo

 

I have done that a time or two…..

 

I think if you go backwards fast enough and hit the brakes it sometimes triggers the abs module as well.

 

Never tried that. But no reason it wouldn’t work. Point is, there’s a simple way (maybe more than one) to avoid a trip to and paying the stealership. Then of course there are those that run to their safe space in the service department to have their washer fluid topped off and there is nothing wrong with that either

 

Same here, who has the correct speedbleeder part numbers?