2nd gens on 37" tires

I ordered up a set of the standard high caster uca’s. I saw the heavy duty ones after I placed my order but their rep said unless I was racing I didn’t need the heavy duty ones.

 

Standard

 

I’m looking forward to getting them in. I didn’t even know these were an option until the other day

 

Is anybody out there running the JD fab lower pivot kit for the purpose of moving your entire LCAs forward by 1”? Just seems like a cost effective option when aftermarket stock length LCAs (although cool) are almost $2k such as the solo motor sports that move your lower ball joint forward by 1”.

I also thought it was cool that you can run LT off this pivot kit if you choose down the road. thoughts?

I’m clearing 315 75 16s now but the 37s are showing up any day and I’m considering many options (including, cutting more, tubing, LCA pivot kit, new LCAs, etc). Already did a body mount relo when I did the 35s.

https://jdfabrication.com/collectio...05-18-lower-arm-pivots?variant=31752378876019

 

Ive been using the pivot kit on stock width for a while now. I like it and it does help alot with tire fitment, but you still need to tub the firewall and fenderwell unless you bumpstop uptravel.

 

This thread took me down the rabbit hole from 35s a year ago. The truck is far from finished but it's on 37s for now. The KM3s are definitely undersized but they've been a good tire. Currently on stock 4 Runner wheels and 1.5" spacers. Beadlocks are coming this spring.

Fitting included: Cutting the cab mount back to the nut, tubbing the firewall back about 3/4", hammering the wheel well up 1/2" or so, trimming fenders and bumper. Also removed the wheel well liners (will be replaced with rubber) and relocated the air intake. I cut and shifted a new set of stock LCA forward 1/2". That seemed to be as far as I could go safely without pushing the coilover too far forward or pushing the CV into the coilover. Added some reinforcement plates when I welded them back together. Along with maxing out the caster with Taco tabs, I gained 3/4" or so from what it was prior. Did an front end refresh (tie rods, wheel bearings, UCA, etc) and added JD Fab spindle gussets. Stock UCA with a tiny bit of grinding inside allow for the full range of travel without moving the tire backwards toward the firewall. Rear end is on Icon springs and a 14" shock relocation. Steering is up next. The stock rack is ok so far but I'm not wanting to trust it forever.

 

Nice.work.

 

Good to know people are running it! And Thanks for the info. I am ok putting a small spacer under bump stop to limit up travel just to get the job done for now knowing that down the road I will hopefully just go LT and fab some inner fenders.

 

@PathFinder1776 when you say you shifted the lower arms forward by 1/2”, do you mean you cut the pivots off and rewelded new ones back on 1/2” forward?

nice fab work btw! Good to know others out there arnt afraid to make the necessary changes to make 37s fit I like.

 

Also did this on 35’s with stock control arms. Bump to bump, lock to lock cleared without tubbing. Worked great.

 

how far forward are your LCAs?

 

All the way, all three spacers

 

Did that increase your turn radius?

 

Either your tires are really small or you didnt cycle your suspension properly.
Almost everyone on 35s rub under the battery tray, unless they bumpstop uptravel. Moving the wheels forward only makes this worst.

For mall crawling you probably wouldnt ever rub, but once your truck gets on any real technical trail or spirited offroad driving, you will rub.

Theres a ton of flex in our frames and body, when your cycling your suspension its best to completely remove the bumpstop and cycle uptravel till metal to metal contact.

 

Even going to mechanical bind, the frame still flexes enough to add another 1.5" of "travel". At least that's how it was on my truck

 

Got my LCA’s on finally. Did a little snow-wheeling.

 

What LCAs are you running? Stock axels?

 

Solo Motorsports, and CVJ axles.

 

In un

damn, didn’t realize they flex that much. I cycled to the bumps and still had 1/2” on 315 kevlars. I could definitely see contact if the bumps compress more than 1/2” and even more with frame flex. Sold the truck before I wheeled it much.

 

I removed the bumps and went as high as the tire would go, then cut 3/4" past that and still ended up destroying my fenders with the tires.

You can see in these clips where the fender was bent from tire contact

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CcA_BkSpz97/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=