6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans

Folks at Tilton ain't having none of that radial nonsense.

Little update...

Sent out the bushing for Garciav today and chatted with the post office to learn a bit about how I can make the shipping process easier/more streamline as I rarely go there.

Also got some more material on the way for everyone else. One step at a time.

 

Thanks for the update @Kasbien. UPS dropped of 62-6122 on weds so I am almost ready to rock.

 

You guys have already gone above and beyond so take your time, we can wait

 

A friend of mine likes to (jokingly) impersonate non-understanding shop management by saying "No setbacks. Only solutions!" any time we encounter the slightest problem. I applied that here. My printer wasn't able to consistently handle printing M4 threads throughout the production run, so I switched to heat-set thread inserts instead. Very happy with strength and final results.

 

Nice.. gotta love trying to print threads with a 3D printer.. I know your pain. Did you happen to try Helicoils or Keyserts at all? Curious.. I wonder if they would work as well. I used some Keyserts in Polycarbonate recently and it bit in good.

 

@Kasbien- I’m Really digging what you did here. It’s a subtle touch, but conveys both thoughtfulness and pride in your product design. Thanks for the teaser!

 

I like the tinkering and evolving the process. Keeps me engaged. Also everyone wants to be happy with a product the moment they pull it from the box right!? (I'm looking at you, Clutch Masters. )

 

I think if I were to downsize my nozzle I could make it happen consistently but that would put the print time through the roof for the whole assembly. Another bonus of the insert is the ability to use a thread locking compound without it eating away at the plastic. Oh, and an excuse to buy a new variable temperature soldering iron haha.

I can't say I've really tried the common thread inserts in plastic before, other than the odd mold or two when I was in that discipline. These little knurled units have proven to be a fantastic option so far. Super quick compared to a helicoil!

 

I still couldnt get consistency when trying different nozzles. At least not with my at home setup.. the industrials I used to work with spoiled me I suppose.. Printing at home as mostly been replaced with just machining it at work nowadays. lol I still find random uses for it at the house though.

The keyserts I would be interested in trying out in a Print, as they essentially broach the ID with tangs you hammer/press in. I may have to take a couple home and try out this weekend.... for science. lol

Those look great though, gotta love a simple design that just works.

 

The prints look really good! I've really wanted an excuse to try out those thread inserts but haven't had the chance yet. I was thinking about this a little bit the other day and wondered if TPU might be a good material for the plug piece there. With it being a bit squishy might allow it to snug up well in the hole and allow the lines to run through kind of similar to firewall plugs used in aviation. Not sure on the thermal properties of TPU though, probably not great!

 

yeah I dont think it would hold up either... ABS would be my preferred choice for its heat resistance. I've had other materials fail with just the AZ sun/heat.

 

A part of me really wants an industrial grade printer as I think you could spend far less time dicking around with a hobby unit. I can't justify it just yet though. Biggest upside to 3D printing has been that I can all day being attentive at work, then just fire this up before bed and wake up to a little finished part that's not held to tight tolerances. If I had my own shop and wanted to overcomplicate the part I'd be machining these out of UHMW or Delrin.

 

I played around with a bit of TPU but settled on high-temp PLA. Good printability, no vented enclosure needed, strong and most importantly is sacrificial in the event of abrasion. Not saying it IS a consumable item, but I certainly WANT it to be if means not wearing out the braided Tillton lines. I designed it with the idea of serviceability through the inspection cover with the transmission in the actual truck, so if the hoses were to wear through it and reach the casting you can easily pop in a new plug assembly and keep truckin.

 

this 100%.. I get so frustrated with the time and effort to dial my printer in at home since being spoiled with big boy printers. The Stratasys Printers we had were load and go.. with soluble support that I could easily chip off and or throw in a bath. I loved those things.. printed a lot of my products on those bad boys.. in a fraction of the time at home, and with much higher resolution and accuracy.

You might be surprised.. I had issues with PLA softening too much due to heat. I print in ABS only now.. and even though I had to make an enclosure, it wasnt hard at all.. and was actually kind of fun and just keeps its tidy overall.

 

I'm in the process of making an acrylic enclosure but I still wouldn't be comfortable printing ABS indoors without a proper means of filtration or ventilation that doesn't cause layer adhesion issues due to unwanted air movement. If an issue arises from the current material I will change things up and send out replacements.

 

The odor isn't terrible at all honestly.. but I do have a HEPA filter sitting on top to pull anything escaping the enclosure. Also have a thermometer inside with a digital readout on my desk to keep track of temps. Add a PEI sheet on the bed and no adhesion issues at all.

 

Hello again everyone! I am happy to report that the X is back up and running - better than ever with the Stage 2+ Spec Clutch, OEM flywheel, Tilton HRB setup!!! All I need now is an inspection, but NY is soooo strict. If anyone knows anyone that'll slap an inspection sticker near the Finger Lakes - i would highly appreciate it! Thanks again to all the folks that did the dirty work! If anyone accidentally oversizes their Clutch Masters base plate / Tilton threaded sleeve... don't worry, sleeve retainer is your friend! TO ANYONE READING THIS THREAD - this option is expensive...clutch - $900, oem flywheel - $200, tilton HRB setup - $500 and still climbing (using Clutchmasters base). If you choose any of the affordable setups please note: if you get anything from this thread...any setup you choose ABSOLUTELY MUST INCLUDE a mechanical clutch pedal stop! That is the ONLY thing that will prevent over travel on ANY of the available kits...happy wrenching. Cheers to all the information on just these 23 pages. Absolutely mind blowing...

 

where did you get your ARP flywheel bolts ?

 

you can probably get some from URD since they sell them with their flywheels. not on their website so probably would have to call

 

There are several ARP flywheel bolts that could fit here, just need to compare to the stock pieces.