Turbo BS Thread

Just got a different work truck (ram 4500 so it has a turbo) as a spare for our branch... Glad we made it back to the shop

 

Well now. Full float brake pads. Neat-o

 

I'm looking at blow off valves and the tube to connect it to.

My main question is idk what size I'll need.
LCE recommended these for off road builds.
They have a 32mm and 38mm.
Im assuming 32mm would be fine. I did order the TiAl 38mm wastegate if that matters

 

Larger BOVs can move more air by volume. If you're running lower boost on a small turbo, you can use the 32mm. The 38mm will blow off more efficiently if you're moving more air (Like a larger turbo or small diameter intercooler piping).

 

Either will work. Unless you're trying to push some high boost numbers, then you'd want the larger diameter.

 

You can also peruse through the Turbosmart website. Synapse Engineering is another good brand. BlackSheepIndustries is a small company with good components as well.

 

To add to @Torspd's comment - don't forget that Tial and HKS also make recirculating BOV's too, if you're positive you want a "sealed" system in that regard.

 

Turbos is a T4, G35 with .68ar
IC and piping is all 2.5"
Stock injection, low boost intentions.
Wastegate is coming with a 5.3lb spring installed.

Thanks for the feedback fellas, always appreciated


I like the idea of keeping things the same brand and using a TiAl bov. I'll do some more digging and see what comes together

 

The Tial Q is a 50mm BOV, so more than plenty. It's actually what I run. You'll dial it in using springs, just like the wastegate. It's based on your vacuum reading at idle, so be prepared to order a few springs to see which one works best for you. You don't want the BOV open at idle, but you also want it to be able to open easily on the transition from boost to vacuum.

 

The best BOV have a way to fine adjust the preload on the spring. You can tune it to go off when you want. Stock Toyota cams make a lot of manifold vacuum

 

Making sure to keep the walkway clear for the delivery guys

 

Yota 1 has knock sensors $80 off right now (still $400 for a set) and that's been on my maintenance list for a while. Is it worth buying them or should I just go for to the GM sensor?
I've heard the OEM sensors don't like boost
On the 5vz but if I'm keeping it low boost will that still be an issue?



(edit McGeorge Toyota has the OEM knock sensors for less than the discounted Yota1 price)

 

I'd personally lean away from "deadening" a factory knock sensor for boost. Without an aftermarket computer they provide a good last ditch effort to save your engine from having a yard sale in the middle of the road

 

I would like the knock sensors to function properly that's why I was thinking about replacing them. I'm more confused now

 

Something to keep in mind when routing the air pre turbo is how close it is to the MAF. It will mess with it. I installed a hybrid valve that worked on the first iteration of my intake setup that was 25% atmosphere 75% recirc. 100% recirc and it would stall when shifting similar to it just venting to atmosphere.

 

This is the recirc I'm using.

 

Ive been configuring the BorgWarmer EFR 7136 and there’s so many options.

Going to use it with the CXRacing manifold so I know I ultimately I’ll need a t3/t4 flange. But it seems like the 7136 T4 is twin scroll and since the CXRacing manifold isn’t true twin scroll it looks like my only option is vband and then to buy a T4 at vband adapter.

I figure I’d gain nothing going twin scroll since banks/cylinders are not separated and just get the vband flange and then buy a T4 to v band adapter. Unless the twin scroll is better even on a single T4 manifold.

Also, I might as well get the whole thing ceramic coated since it seems to be cheaper than a good turbo blanket. Unless a blanket is better but it seems to be opinion on what better. Any opinion on this?

Then I have to think about the speed sensor probe. Which isn’t something I really think I need but the unit they offer can also use a temperature probe which would be good information to have on hand.

 

when you say the whole thing are you talking about coating just the turbo or do you mean the manifolds as well?

Not sure on the turbo but my newby understanding is that coating the manifolds is not recommended because it can cause the steel to crack.

I was originally planning on getting a blanket for the turbo and wrapping the manifolds (I think the wraps look sweeet) but I'm leaning away from that now.

I'm also interested in what the collective wealth of knowledge has to say about this


Side note
I'm just now realizing that the GM knock sensors are external. I was under the impression they would be installed the same as the OEM knock sensor and that's why I was so confused by @Speedytech7 's earlier response

Sometimes you just don't know what you don't know.

Still looking at BOV's. GFB makes an adjustable dual port plum back that's got my attention.

Or there's a turbosmart dual port bov similar to what @Jon64l is running.

My feverish covid brain is a bit fried so everything is sorta blending together but I believe the GFB is completely adjustable and the turbosmart is set at 50/50 but comes with an optional plug for 100% atmosphere venting.

 

Common internet belief is that cheap manifolds or headers that haven’t been through heat cycles or flat out shouldn’t be ceramic coated.

considering tons of headers that haven’t been run through heat cycles come ceramic coated from the manufacturer of say there isn’t much to support that belief.

I could understand that folks would be hesitant to pay $500 plus to get a set of $500 eBay headers coated because you’re dumping money into a product made with cheap material to begin with and therefore more likely to crack in any case. And I’m on that side of the fence. I’d hate to have manifold cracking issues after dumping a ton of money into a set without some sort of warranty. The CXRacing manifold isn’t $500 territory but I do question the quality of the material and methods and materials used to weld.

Wrapping headers/manifolds is a different story all together compared to ceramic coatings. Wasn’t planing on that anyway.

I was originally referring to thy ceramic coating that a highly reputable company offers on high quality turbos. If a few extra hundred would be beneficial in lowering under hood temperatures and possibly (in theory) increasing performance then it’s worth it. I was just looking for some input.

 

I had this one ceramic coated for @BassAckwards, by Polydyn. Very well done, and still holding up just fine. Last I heard. The difference between the metal use in that manifold, versus Chinese ‐eBay ones, is that I used 321 stainless for his.