Am I reading this resistance result correctly?

ok. Thank you. I’m not 100% sure it’s bad. I figured it’d be smarter to have a replacement in hand prior to attempting to get at it.
I happened upon these instructions in the wiring manual & failed.
Last test.

 

& I thank you. Had I realized this may be responsible for this particular EFI issue, I would have waited off. However, all is not lost as I have learned much.... I wonder if this even could be related to the power outlet thing. The dome fuse is connected to it & the combo meter, which has to do with the cel. That PO relay was getting pretty warm just in the few mins I was testing the EFI this afternoon....

I'll report back after crankshaft install....

 

So I watched a vid on testing the crankshaft sensor. One thing to do was to hook the sensor up to a power source along with the multimeter. Then set it to AC & magnetize it using a piece of metal. It should show voltage. I hooked it up to the battery. Get 0v - good. Then no change when magnetized. Am I doing this correctly? Or is this a valid test, as I did not see it in the FSM.
I went on to this step because my resistance was ok.
Oh, & I broke the 10mm bolt whilst removing. However, other than confessing, I’m choosing the denial route for now….

 

It’s hard to diagnose a bad crank signal if it’s not “completely” bad. Unless you have a lab scope, about all you can do is look for rpm signal.

And broken bolts happen. Nothing to to be embarrassed about. We’ve all don’t it.

 

Ok. I thought it’d come back with a resistance fail. & I didn’t wanna throw money at a sensor if it could be in the wiring, so I thought I’d look up further ways to bench test it. It made sense that some change would take place when magnetized.

thank you….
& yeah, it’s just a REALLY sucky place to have it happen….

 

& if it was defective or I knew it now, it’d help make me the bolt worth something as I work away at it

 

That bolt doesn’t require a lot of torque.
Spec is 69 INCH lbs.

 

Whelp, when I can manage to get grips around the little 3 threads I have to work with, whilst it’s Impossible to see & do it at the same time, it doesn’t seem to be budging….

 

I’d almost have to be there and see the situation before giving any advice on how to get it out.

I’ve done everything from creating a slot in the threads, drilling with left hand bits, and drilling with standard bots and extractors.

Broken bolts almost lays require a plan of action.
The plan always includes a lot of swear words..

 

Yeah, that is definitely in a bad spot.
I doesn’t look like you have much room to try vice grips.
And getting a dremel in there to cut a slot doesn’t look any easier.
Not even a right angle drill would help.

You may have to resort to pulling parts off.
If you could get a straight shot at it from up top, you might use a drill bit extension and drill it?

 

So I ended up epoxy’ing it on. The coolant pipe was going to have to come off & I’m not even sure if that woulda done it. Anyway, if this doesn’t work, it’ll be an early belt job time. There was a space behind where it seats, so I was able to add in a zippy for added security.

Good news is when the new one had ac voltage applied & a piece of metal was put up to it, it did react. The original did not.

 

Ok. Time to continue on here. Whilst the sensor did indeed help with some idle roughness, the cel (mil) is still not coming on at startup. Idle is high & some roughness remains.

The EFI is still the same.

So I decided to see if there was continuity between EFI term 3 (B+) & a few of the sensors it was directly connected to at their B+ terms. MAF, VPS, VSV, as well as the circuit opening relay. No. No. No. & no. Then I ran a wire from the ECU B+ to the EFI term 3 & same thing. No continuity with the addition of an erratically high reading. Each of these do however, have continuity with term 5 at the EFI, which is BATT. & both B+ & BATT have to do with the MIL....

& yes, these checks were done with the ECU connector disconnected.

Any suggestions on my next check? I did not check each & every sensor on the B+ line. AM2 fuse itself has continuity.... Ignition switch?

 

So I will update even though I got no response to the last post.

Using the prior diagram, I am getting continuity from B+ at the ECU to term 1 of the circuit opening relay. Not at term 5 though. I am getting it at term 3.

Also, no continuity from EFI term 3 to COR term 1 or 5.

& I have to add here, I am totally confused. In my looking up the relay diagrams, term 3 is the top horizontal one, making 5 the bottom one. However, I see a w-r wire running to “3”, yet the wiring manual stated it should be at 5.

All that to say, no continuity from B+ to whatever term B+ that is.

Still no continuity between EFI terms 1&2 at the box. Neither am I getting it at the COR terms 1&2.

I am losing .82v at EFI term 1, key on. When I jump 3&5 this goes to .90. I would expect this .08 to happen.

When I pull the IGN fuse, the voltage at EFI term 1 normalizes.

Also, there is no voltage present at STA fuse.

I have been informed that the wiring FSM is a good guide for troubleshooting ing, so if my take on what it’s stating is an open circuit is correct, then I guess that’s at least one thing I am looking at. Evidence being no continuity between B+ terms.

 

Think I’m giving up for now. I’ve spent countless hours on it. I finally realized that I had been swapping 3 & 5. In fact it was right there in front of my mug in the FSM all along. So anyway, that discounts the lack of continuity at B+. Which is fine.

@TnShooter had mentioned an amperage test for the EFI. I look up how to do this. Not much info on it out there. I try it & get nothing.

Still have .82v which jumps to over a volt with relay in unaccounted for. I put a wire in at term 1 to check.

oh, & I can jump the EFI at the box with no key. & I can faintly hear it when I put the relay in. I thought the pump only activated with key. Apparently I was incorrect.

still no cel.

 

I don’t recall anything about an amperage test?
But a voltage drop test is usually on technique used to diagnose bad wiring.

 

My bad. It was someone else who mentioned it.
Ok. Think I can handle that one.

 

so from pos term at battery to term 1 (load) at EFI (wire wrapped around it, so relay is in), engine started, using min/max function, I get 1.17v drop.

I get the same by just putting the key in the start position.

so I moved the lead off the post & started checking other things, the fuses, under the hood & below, 1, 2 & 5 of the power outlet relay, everything was giving back a reading of at least 1 volt.
STA read 10.8

However, ECU-IG thru Gauge (pic below) were reading about .98-ish & when I went back with the lead just on the pos terminal, they each had .17-ish, so these were really .8 or so. I imagine not affected by the EFI being activated.

So now what? This wire from the EFI is a loner, in that it goes straight back to the ECU.
I had tested it for continuity & it passed.
I tested for voltage & it’s down the 1.17.

I read up on doing these tests & it stated to keep moving the lead. Do I keep going & how do I know when I’ve arrived?

or do I start with checking that wire? I mean taking things apart?

Diagram (EFI, etc) is a couple of posts back.