Clutch Replacement

It took me a while to find a combo that didn’t have bad acceleration and decel vibrations, but im super happy with it now.

That is a sub 30 minute clutch job by the looks of it! I am clearly working on the wrong stuff lol

 

Yes! Slave cylinder is easy to check. just crawl under truck and pull boot off slave cylinder actuator rod and inspect inside for corrosion. If you catch it in time you may be able to avoid replacing clutch if slave cylinder is indeed the problem.

 

I will follow in your footsteps because just a bit more feel and moving that engage point a bit lower would be perfect.


Yup! The time is mostly spent just aligning the tabs and teeth on the friction and drive plates. The packs last 50k or so, but I was initially in there a lot getting the quiet clutch mod to work. It preloads the pack a bit so that it doesn't eat the basket.

 

Welcome to the forum

110,000 km/68,000 miles is very short life for a clutch.
That "weird revs on the highway" is the clutch slipping - deadly to the clutch.

More important than which clutch to buy is why such a short life.
Are you the original owner, if not do you have any vehicle history?
Big tires or heavyweight mods?
Trailer towing?
Is this your first manual by chance?

 

It was bought off of a lease at around 35,000 kms. Very possible it was abused a little. 33" tires with 17 rims was lifted in the last year and I have added some weight, roof rack and bumper. I use the truck for my work carrying tools for tile installation, cement, etc. Never over loading but I'm sure all of this has helped kill the clutch.

Not my first manual I have driven more manual than automatic. Jeep TJ, Acura Integra.

No trailer but bed weight for sure.

I have considered re gearing but on advice 33" tires with a manual should be fine.

 

So I just stumbled upon a recent thread from the 2nd gen forum and they are having crazy amounts problems with the Clutch Masters throw out bearings. Different kit but same manufacturer.. makes me a little nervous seeing so many people having major issues

 

They have a completely different TOB and nose shaft.

 

Clutch on my ranger was still fine at 230k km when I sold it.

Im expecting at least 250k km out of my tacos clutch.

 

Driver is the biggest variable IMHO.

Well, unless your Tacoma is a tow rig.

 

Woke up on the wrong side of bed today?

 

I thought so as well I've never had a clutch issue before in my life owning 3 different MT vehicles. Hence why I am unfamiliar with replacing them. I've always noticed my truck to be a little weird compared to my TJ honestly. The clutch always seems bogged out while in reverse on any sort of incline. Driveways included not only offroad. I might not be be the best MT driver but I certainly don't abuse my clutch or drive it like a racecar.

Regardless.. here I am with a truck still under financing and a clutch that seems next to death.

Clutchmasters seem to be the best and fastest option available here in Ontario.
Apparently Centerforce have a new option but looks like it's $1000 for the kit and flywheel.

 

Same here, never had any clutch issues on my vehicles.

2nd and 3rd gen Tacomas come with clutch fluid accumulator, I think
That’s what you are feeling. It slows down the fluid to help inexperienced drivers.

I would recommend getting rid of it, clutch will feel normal again.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mt-accumulator-delete-mod-adm-and-bs-thread.568303/

 

Woke up and realized their truck was missing a pedal.

 

That dood never has any good input or advice. Fits the Ignore list nicely.

 

You make a great point.

 

Cheers!

 

Since I was younger and more into racing, I've been concerned when upgrading clutches to make them too strong. Had experiences with breaking rear ends and transmissions doing stupid stuff without the clutch to absorb it. That's all I caution about.

 

Can already hear the rocks in the cement mixer going alongside the desmo valves just looking at that pic

 

Hahaha! Mine was worse since it originally came with a steel clutch basket. Had to yell at other folks near the bike at idle, with the full cover on. Now, with the QC mod and fully open, it is just the belts, valves, and exhaust, plus nice jangles when the clutch is disengaged.