*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

I did ask and much appreciate the info .

My boyfriend has some experience with detailing cars so that is why we are willing to invest some $ and do it ourselves.
Recently I scratched my truck pretty badly on a trail and he was able to buff and polish them out for the most part, he didn't want to do more with the buffer he has since sometimes it goes on its own and he didn't want to burn through my paint .

That is not a bad price at all on the Griot's Garage 6 inch Random Orbital Polisher.

 

It's not detailing a truck, but I'm sure someone can help ...

How about removing oxidation from fiberglass siding such as on a motorhome/rv/trailer?

 

I actually purchased the buffer as a replacement for my older style Porter Cable and could not be happier. It is really hard to make a mistake with the buffer unless you drop it on the truck. I also have a Makita rotary so I now have 3 buffers.

You are also right on with concerns to damaging the paint. the Toyota has a soft paint and would be pretty easy to burn off with a rotary.

I do a lot of work on GM cars and the GM paint is very hard. Which makes it very forgiving but harder to work on.

As I said I would wait on a sale. I like Autogeek because the customer service is second to none. If you have a question call them they will be glad to help you out.

I get the sale e-mails from them all the time. When I see a sale on the GG polisher I will send you a PM.

 

Mens Power Gloss with a yellow pad folled up with Mens Nano with an orange pad. That should do the trick.

Also Megs makes a great sealant that will take a lot of abuse.

I also forgot to add that I used the combo above for a horse trailer two summers ago for a friend. It worked really well and still looks great today. She needs to wash it more often than she does but she is a very active woman that has a lot of animals on her small suburban farm.

 

My boyfriend is a GM mechanic for about 13 years now.
I told him the Toyota paint is very soft, so he was extra cautious and he did a good job given the tools he had.
He's as obsessed with keeping his truck as nice as I am, so definately want to buy something of quality. He use to have a detailer at the dealership do his truck each year, but they got a different crew and they don't do as nice of a job for the $$.
My red truck in the hot desert sun and getting sand blasted at the dunes is in need of some attention!

I'll wait for a sale price, appreciate a PM when you see it.

 

Great, thanks!
We wash our trailer often. It was really oxidized when we bought it (used) and we want to get it cleaned up and treated before it gets too hot here. Another reason we need a quality buffer.

 

Your boyfriend may have access to 3M polished through the dealership. 3M is a great brand as well.

When it come to polishes you really need to find a brand and stick with it. Polishes are very expensive and it takes a while to find a brand that you are comfortable working with. You should see all that I have and that I hardly ever use because I have settled in on the Mens brand.

I would also use anywhere from 2 to 5 coats of sealant on your truck since it is in the sand so much. Then top it off with two coats of way.

Take before and after pics so you can see the difference.

I have had a lot of kids tell me that the job they do with Gold Class is just as good as a pro detail. At meets I usually empower them to polish and wax their ride. Most end up purchasing a buffer pads and polishes. LOL.

 

Yes, he used 3M on my truck and was going to try that on the trailer.

I've been using Meguiars and Mothers products on my truck over the years.
That makes sense, I should apply more sealant and wax. I want to keep the red looking red, ya know. I used the clay bar (based off this thread) last year and was impressed, now I just need to start over and really clean and protect it.

 

porter cable not that good???i was thinking of getting that kit.

 

The pc is fine for a backyard detailer. Unless you are making money off detailing other people vehicles, there is no need for anything else. Not too mention that there is no way to damage your paint with the pc unless your drop the thing on it as mentioned before.

 

The PCXP is an excellent choice. I just received a great deal on the GG buffer from a company I trust. Both are rated the same basically the best in their class. My older PC takes a licking and keeps on ticking. I still use it but only to Jewel the finish or when I am helping a friend detail their car. The process happens quickly when two people are buffing away.

 

anyone got pics of buffing with the pc???before and after.

 

This may be a little more than you wanted.

Detailed my Sister’s 98 Bonneville

About a month ago I offered to troubleshoot a keyless entry problem on my sister’s car. When I opened the hood to check a fuse in the fuse center I was real sorry that I did not have any gloves with me. Right then I offered to detail her car. This past week my sister has been at the ocean and I had the car from last Thursday till tomorrow. She will be amazed when I return the car.

My basic process was as follows.

Wash car with Z7
Claybar with leftover Pinnacle Poly, Megs smooth surface, and Z18 clay.
Use Makita with FMP and SIP for major scratches
Use Makita with FMP and Micro for swirl marks on paint.
Use PC7424 white pad and Micro on the plastic body cladding.
Use PC7424 with blue pad and PO85RD for final polish
Do an IPA wipe down
1 coat of Z5P
Z6 wipe down
1 coat of Z2P
2 coats of Pinnacle Liquid Souveran wax

Here are some before pics.




Just Nasty.





















Then we polish, seal and wax.

































Engine Bay was filthy.






ARO, Microfiber gloves and a brush took care of the filth. 303 added some protection to the rubber and vinyl items and Gummi Pflege helped with the seals. Diamondite window cleaner helped with the windows. Poor Boys cleaned the inside plastic and Folex cleaned the carpet and cloth seats











Opps all better now.



Now for a few interior shots.
Only one before shot but the entire interior was in this shape which was not too bad.



The After shots














I have to say that I really like the way Pinnacle Liquid Souveran wax looks on white. The wax goes on smooth and wipes off easy. It is like using liquid butter.


It rained last night so I took a few morning bubble pics because I know you guys love them.

 

It should shine right up unless the clear coat is coming off. With 200K on the clock that is a possibility.

 

That looks like an outstanding and epic job. Must feel great to have transformed it. How did your sister react?

 

This is my Bonneville.








My favorite Pic.

She thought it was a new car. LOL

 

Wow that car was FILTHY!! I could never let my truck get like that, it makes me anxious when it has rain spots on it....like it does right now lol.

Great job, it does look like a different car.

 

Benjamin you hit the nail right on the head. Because the colors white, beige and silver hide the dirt so well is the same reason they do not pop when polished and shined.

The darker colors shoe every little scratch abd swirl mark but when polished have that deep wet glow.

Your beige Bonneville will look a lot better once you wash, clay and wax it. If you have a polisher then I would polish before the wax.

If you take a few hours to clean the entire car the resale value will increase.

 

Polishes are all abrasive. A wax and or sealant is used to protect the polished surface. A rubbing compound is a very abrasive polish. I have some but I cannot remember the last time I used it on a vehicle. The Menzerna product line has been my polishe of choice for almost 5 years now. Polishes are just so expensive compared to waxes and sealants. It is best to find a product line that works for you and stick to it. I have sort of wanted to try the Megs 105 and 205 combo, so many top detailers use then all the time with fantastic results.

For the engine I like Amazing Roll Off because it works for me. I also like to use a microfiber glove to do the engine. Just be sure to put a thicker latex glove on first, to protect your hand from the chemicals, and put the microfiber glove over top of the latex. Your fingers can get in all the recessed areas. I also have a few dedicated brushes I use on the engine as well.

Once cleaned 303 Aerospace Protectant can protect and dress up the rubber and vinyl items under the hood. I also use a sealant on the painted surfaces under the hood. Makes the next clean up a breeze.

Go ahead and PM me if you have a question I will be happy to answer.

 

Speaking on behalf of myself and I'm sure the rest of us on this forum, I/We really appreciate the time you spent putting this out to the rest of us.