Fuse Jump driving me nuts

I've tried my 2nd set of LED Raptor Lights.... using a Fuse Jump in the DRL as well as FOG fuse and lights come on and stay on even with car not running. Why would power be running to the lights while car off???

I'm so confused.

 

Use this Halogen headlamp Raptor Light Tap

 

Because the DRL fuse is after the battery source then to the DRL relay. And the DRL relay coil is negatively switched and controlled be the Main Body ECU.

 

Thank you for this. But the same happened with the FOG light fuse.

where are you supposed to fuse jump for Raptor Lights???

Every You Tube video makes it look so easy.

 

Are you putting in the add a fuse the right way? There is a wrong way and a right way.

on a normal fuse there’s the filament the makes the bridge. No big deal. However on the add a fuse, depending which direction it’s installed, it will bypass power, basically making the fuse aspect useless. There’s a hot side, that needs to up the leg and across. You need to know what side is hot.

I don’t know if this will fix your problem, but if there’s a relay that’s being bypassed and it’s just taking 12vs…then that could be it.

 

I definitely tried it both ways... which is why it's blowing my mind. Such a simple MOD, yet not for me.

 

Fog fuse is same as DRL, always hot.

 

I use the inj fuse on my v6 with no issues of it coming on by itself.
Been like this 1.5 years.

 

That make's me wonder why these specific Tacoma Raptor LED Lights do not tell us this up front?? is my Limited edition different??

So strange.

Thanks.

 

There's always this:
https://fbchs.square.site/product/t...rue&sa=false&sbp=false&q=false&category_id=12
or
https://fbchs.square.site/product/t...rue&sa=false&sbp=false&q=false&category_id=12

 

The a/c fuse also can be used. If you ever blow the inj fuse your truck will crank crank crank with no start then you have to remember what you did. If you have the v6. The 4 cyl is a different fuse box but I would think it would act the same

 

But...it'll turn ON the grill lamps when the system does the leak test.

 

Only available on the Manual A/C, inside the cab. There are other IGN/ACC fuses in the cab if OP is going to run a wire from cab to grill.

 

Yes mine is a Manual a/c

I think I’m using the inj. I’ll look again op. Mine used to come on at random times so I switched it to the I thought inj but I’ll double check.

 

Chances are the DRL is hot all the time at that fuse. I personally don’t likely to connect accessories to major functioning fuses.

You can run your wire down to the interior fuse box. It’s by the obd2. You can use the tow brake if you don’t tow at all. You can add a fuse to the sun roof fuse too, if it’s higher amp, and you don’t want to use the tow brake fuse. If you don’t overload your usb port, that’s under there too at 7.5 amps.

Use a multimeter to test. Or even one of those Harbor freight testers with the light bulb. Just to make sure something is on accessory for one, and also which side is hot so you can put the right leg where it needs to be, to avoid bypassing the fuse. I don’t memorize diagrams, so I have to test and check everything when I doing anything electrical.

 

See pic on post #3

 

Don’t need to. I’m not the one trying to plug stuff into it. I test things and do it right the first time with criticism to things posted on the internet. The internet would have the OP just plug and play into the DRL, hence this thread in the first place.

 

I use my cig lighter fuse

 

You only have mentioned power, do you have good ground?

 

Yes, I used a spot under the left front rocker panel to ground where the harnesses use from the factory. A little tight but it works