1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Sounds like a really nice piece of hardware+software if it'll do that for ya. Only thing a real scope might tell you is if the haltech has some weird input issue, but that would be pretty unlikely.

 

That o-scope functionality in the Nexus version sounds amazing.

 

Yes. My voltage at the battery is 14.3 and the stock ECU reads 14.3 at the scangauge.

My voltage at the battery with haltech is 14.3 but haltech reads 13.3 or so at scangauge.

so I’m not sure why I’m loosing 1 volt with the haltech plugged in

 

Does the haltech have a dedicated voltage sense wire, or is it just reading off of its power input?

 

Read directly using the same hardware (a multimeter), don't rely on the Haltech or the scangauge, they will be calibrated differently, and more poorly than an actual multimeter.

 

If you're 14+ at the battery, I wouldn't worry too much.

 

Trigger issues fixed!
Have had the haltech installed for a year now with 30k plus miles on it.
I've been having Trigger issues for the last 7 months and before that it was running perfectly.
The haltech did an auto update and the engine started to have trigger issues at 5100rpms from the previous 5600rpms rev limiter.
Have been try multiple things to get it fixed and nothing worked.
Decided to replace the camshaft sensor as I had already replaced the crankshaft sensor.
Got an OEM camshaft sensor from dealership and then the Trigger issues got worse cutting the engine at 3800-4100rpms.
I then added the big 7 (two gauge) ground wires, fender, engine and firewall,
Still no change,

I took a wire wheel to the bracket that holds the ground stap for the ECU and scrapped the paint off the supercharger where the bracket is attached,
Still nothing.
Today I decided to remove the new OEM camshaft sensor and put the old one back in so I could drive the truck with a 5100rpm until further time instead of the 3800rpms.
Well guess what?
The Trigger issues are gone and no Trigger check engine light anymore,
THE OEM CAMSHAFT WAS DEFECTIVE

The grounds were my problem!

Can't expression HOW IMPORTANT all ground strap wires or connecting are and use dielectric grease.
1) cable from battery to fender,
2) cable from battery to engine,
3)cable from firewall to engine
4) the brown ground strap wires for the ecu that are connected to the supercharger.
5) the bracket and supercharger contact areas.

Shes running fantastic again

 

Well my trigger issues change with temperature... so thats a pretty good indication my 26 year old sensor is unhappy

 

This is hawt.

 

So after having the Haltech 750 for bit now and doing some more tuning on it, I wanted to express some of my thoughts about my experience with it.

The Haltech computers are great and the software interface is very user friendly and a good learning platform to start on imo. I will say that I wish I had gotten an Elite 1500 instead of the 750 though. Solely for the fact that is has knock control capability.

Now my logic behind wanting knock control is purely because I have a manual transmission. My truck weighs about 4500lbs unloaded which is a lot of weight for a 4 banger. So if I try and accelerate too aggressively in a higher gear starting at lower rpm's, it is possible to make the motor ping.
Now I could pull a lot of timing out of it to keep it from pinging, but I would lose torque and power in that range and it doesn't happen too often unless I subject the motor to those conditions. So I'm keeping it where it's at.

With knock control though, I would have more of a safety net with the computer being able to take timing out of it automatically at a point of my choosing. So if I were to say tow a trailer or really load the truck down where it might be even more subject to pinging in that range, then the computer would ensure the motors safety rather than me having to break out the laptop or something to make that change myself.

This is purely because I have a manual though. With an automatic, the transmission and torque converter will not subject the motor to that kind of a load and RPM range due to the nature of how they work.

I wish I had known this going into buying the kit, but it's all a learning process.

TLDR; imo if you have an automatic, you shouldn't really need anything more than the elite 750. But if you have a manual transmission and a heavier truck, then an elite 1500 would be the better choice.

 

anyone wanna share their target lambda map?
Curious to compare mine to others on the 3rz 5vz motors running standalones

 

I can post a few 5vz lambda maps later for ya.

 

I haven't had to knock much timing out of a supercharged 5vz truck. But as a rule if you keep the 5vz fat under boost you won't hit knock threshold till 15-16psi

 

not running into any knocking under boost with how it is now, but am just curious as to what people's target AFR's are across the range just for comparison's sake since some might have a different approach to it

 

There are a few ways to get a tune for efficiency in low load zones specifically. But in high load and with boost the guys that dip lean are just asking for engine failure (unless it is direct injection then you can run in the mid 12s under heavy boost, theres so much less waste with GDI).

Here's a pretty damn safe 5VZ lambda map

 

Get GM SU1075 Knock Sensors. You will have to change the Toyota connector to a GM one.

My general rule was that it's best to be:
12.0:1 by 6 psi at any RPM, blend and ramp where appropriate.
9 psi, 11.7
12 psi, 11.3
15 psi, 11.0

Was 10.3-10.8 at 23 psi.

I gotta wire my 2500 in this weekend. I hope I actually do it.

 

I'm not a fan of the wrong knock sensors for the engine. It gets around the stock computers sensitivity at the risk of engine damage but let's you have some of your power back. On a standalone I think you're just asking for trouble since you can run modern knock sensors and tune for the right frequency range, no point in fooling a computer you control all the parameters and retard amount on anyway.

I was wondering if you'd chime in on TW though, love watching your videos. And I believe you're right on about getting it rich enough before 6psi, you can see in that lambda map above I shoot for the same haha

 

How many pounds of actually boost can the stock 3.4 motor handle before adding ARP studs?
I've heard 16 with the ARP.

 

It's not really how many pounds of boost. It's more about the power it generates. These engines run the risk of bending a rod somewhere north of 450 lb of torque, likely before you lift the head.

 

Hmm... read this: https://www.customtacos.com/threads/knock-sensor-anyone-use-ks46.184210/#post-2060690
I needed to change to the SU1075 because my knock sensors were dying after only a few months on boost.

Thanks for the kind words about the videos.

Build the motor 15+ psi. Don't do any before 15 psi: enjoy it; focus on your tune -- maybe run some methanol in the hot months for added reliability and safety. There, I made it easy.