1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

I doubt they would start him, they have a #1 already but it would be interesting if it happened

 

https://fordauthority.com/2022/11/f...umbers-figures-results-third-quarter-2022-q3/

 

Lol can't find the post but just the 168 leading up to it at the 4 lane split since it's all snowed in.

 

This is some REAL fat kid shit!

Cream cheese strudel, and it is so fucking good!



Unlike shit you buy at the store, we use butter for each layer in our laminated doughs.

The reason why you get that "oily" or "slick" feel is because shortening is commonly used since 1. It's cheaper and 2. It's easier to work with when making laminated dough.

Butter layers makes the crispy dough literally melt as you bite into it.

 

Üter Zörker likes this

 

@Sperrunner you ever come across an instance in the field were you had to figure out what size run capacitor a fan motor needs completely dark?

I guess I'm asking, is there a special test to do when you have zero data on the fan and no capacitor to go off of

 

Whoever is stilling a "used" 2022 with 6k miles on it for a $10k markup is a jerk, but... this is pretty.

https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/colorado-springs-2022-ford-bronco-door/7593673489.html

 

Never had too but googles say divide the start-up energy (joules) by one half of the voltage squared

 

I saw that and got confused cause I thought joules was equivalent to 1 W per second.

I was hoping a tech guy such as yourself has run into the issue and could give me a smooth brain process to follow. I don't think my brain has enough wrinkles for this

 

LSD on the rear of my 100 still works. It does a little dance as it engages and then rear to fishtail. I've had it fishtail into a tree in a tight place. Usually for situations where I want more control, I proactively engage the front eLocker. Then it will pull through anything.

 

There is no name plate data at all on the motor?

 

Diagnosis please?
Every now and then I get a very high idle usually around 2000 RPM. When that happens, engine is at normal operating temp, but my ultraguage reads around 100*. So it’s reading about 80* less than what it is actually at.

 

Leaving

I flew into NYC via EWR because the flight was cheaper.

 

If you know the voltage and can figure out what the amp rating is seems like you can use this

 

Lulz


Brand new cooler right outta the box. Manufacturer sent a 22 microfarad cap and it will start and run but only about 20min. They have no idea on the efficiency of the motor so my plug and play math equations are useless

 

We literally just mentioned how people just randomly jump in here to ask questions before we send them off on their way

Search will tell you to never rely on your vehicle temp gauge.

It runs off a sender, that is independent of your actual engine coolant temperature sensor.

What your sensor reads, is what you are seeing on your Ultragauge.

Depending on your sensor (whether it's working or not, and whatever signal it sends to your ECM) can effect your idle.

I had a bad sensor that caused high RPM's at idle, along with a rich fuel smell.

 

Here it is

 

What in the chinasium