Long Travel BS Thread

I have to call DSM to order the shafts today so I’ll ask them what they usually ship the coilovers with for bleed.

Staggered tubes yes. I think I might do all 15’s and the top two smallest leave as 18’s (since I don’t have any 15’s in that diameter. Maybe try 12’s on the two biggest ones. Not sure if I have have two biggest in 15 but I know I have the 12’s.

 

I’d add a flutter to coil over and pull the free bleed. Going that light on the bypass valving seems too light for when you actually get off road.

For reference my truck is running 10/10 with flutters on both sides for the coil over and only one bleed open. And a shit ton of 20’s in the bypass with tubes mostly closed.

 

pull what free bleed? You’ve got flutters on comp & rebound? Wouldn’t that be similar to putting more bleed in the piston and running a straight stack? Flutters are to decrease the cracking point but act similar to bleed, while only effecting one side of the circuit. If you’ve got flutters on both you essentially have created a ton of bleed in both circuits.

 

The bleed port on the piston.

And yeah flutter on both sides of the coil over. But also a shit ton of compression valving on the bypass.

I dunno, trying to make suggestions for mall crawlers that might off road hard one time.

 

Sorry I’m not as extreme as you man. Forget I asked.

Edit. As for the mall crawler dig. I’m not rich like a lot of you. I can afford a trailer and a second truck. Not to mention I don’t have room for that either. So guess what…this is wild, when you build your daily driver you drive it mostly on the street. Wow I know. Plus I live in NorCal. There is much near me for wheeling.

 

The collapsed length becomes an issue when you’ve got limited space to work with. You can only mount the shock so high when keeping it under the bed. Eventually you’ll run into issues bottoming out the shock before the suspension bumps out.

 

So I’m committed to doing bed cage, the 16” is the route to go. I’ve read that the 2.5s are better for keeping cool, but if I’m not racing the truck, what would the cons be if I did 2.0s instead?

 

Sounds like your coilover is just a spring holder, and your bypass is doing way more work than it needs to, which would lead to more heat than it should have...

The flutter on both sides is basically pointless, and if your bypass is all closed up, what's even the point of it either? I mean, if it works for you then cool, but the whole point of a coilover/bypass setup, in my eyes, is to divide the heat between two bodies, with the bypass giving you zone control.

I would firm up the coilover to like 15s, lose the flutter on rebound, and run more bleed instead.
Lighten up the bypass to 18s with half opened tubes, and you'll have a more balanced setup, with actual adjustability in the bypass tubes.

But I don't actually know anything, so don't listen to me.

 

Debatable depending on your priorities but if you have the right kit, you’re willing to cut the bed, and put in the work you will net more travel with a 16”.

Heat affects the performance of the shocks, this doesn’t apply to just racing applications. All depends on your objectives. Racing is just an extreme end of the spectrum. Most going to a SUA will use a 2.5” or 3.0” depending on how hard they plan on using the truck.

another thing to consider is tube size. Typically a 2.0” shock has 1/2” tubes. 2.5” and up will use 5/8” (King) and 3/4” (Fox). This relates to the amount of flow you get in each bypass zone.

 

do you have staggered or overlapping tube layout? You’re omitting a lot of details before you make a comparison. You also have to consider the use of the truck. You’re fortunate to not have to daily your truck so you can get away with a lot of comforts that others cannot.

a “shit ton” of compression valving on an overlapping tube layout does not translate the same to a staggered layout due to oil flow within the zones.

 

Great info. So I’m better off with the 2.5s. Now question is, piggy back vs remotes. I’ve read a lot of conflicting info on both

 

You took that too personal, don’t. This is an LT BS thread. We all dig at each other but at the end of the day most are here to learn and converse. You’ve done a lot of respectable work to your rig and have learned throughout the process. More than a lot of people can say.

But really though… you put 38” tires on a rig that is 90% street use.

 

Comes down to clearance. You’ve already stated you’re not racing the truck so why worry about hysteresis, etc.

 

Fair, I like the clean look of the piggyback over remotes personally.

 

Eh. I’ve had a lot of people here call me a mall crawler. Gets old after a while.

So what I need to do is buy a truck, a trailer, and a daily driver. Only tow my truck my to the trailhead so it becomes a real truck that sees more off road than street miles. Sounds like a tremendous waste of money to me. If all of you only owned your LT trucks you’d all be mall crawlers like me.

Anyway, back to valving. I think I’ll just change shims. At this point I have no idea if snoski is just trolling me at this point.

I don’t like it either. Living where I do sucks with this kind of truck. Where I moved from was great. I bet 20% of my total mileage was off-road. Had a few off road “race courses” less than an hour away. Now the only thing I have is pismo which is almost three hours away. It’s already built way too far to sell. So I am stuck being a mall crawler. If that makes me a poseur, so be it.

Mall crawler for life.

A quick edit. That truck/trailer/dd wasn’t a jab or anything. Just pointing out the diff between someone like me that can only afford one vehicle and everyone else that has a trailer. You’d all be mall crawlers just like me if you didn’t have an extra vehicle.

 

Yes tremendous waste of money and worth every penny

 

You don't have to own a tow rig and trailer, all you need are jack stands. If your truck is just in the garage being built indefinitely, nobody can call you a poser.

Or you can save even more room like me and just fit most of your truck into a big box.

 

I just saw your interview with Terracrew yesterday lol very nice build sir

 

I don’t have a garage either.

I also got a lot of nasty looks from my neighbors when I was doing the tubbing. They weren’t impressed at all. Being a renter I’m sure they already don’t like me. I do have a huge pile of parts like that I try to hide behind the garbage cans.

 

The reason I don’t have a trailer and truck (other then the room I don’t have) is I see a trailer for 5k. My immediate first thought is they 5k sure could buy a lot of truck parts. Which is why I only own one vehicle.