1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

So, I would still choose the SU1075 on a 5VZ with stock ECU.

However, I do agree a "modern" (Bosch: https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-011100-knock-sensor-genuine-bosch/) knock sensor is better option with the Haltech standalone. Which sucks, because I still have the SU1075's.

 

Damn that is a rich map.

 

Yes it is, that's why it is the safe map. Good starting point to clean up yourself in your cruising ranges though, wouldn't take but a couple drives with a passenger to take it out and make it your own.

 

Care to post a dialed in map?

 

I hesitate to since everyones situation is different. I'll post a map that's still rich (because leaning it out further resulted in poor behavior) but different due to differing setup and forced induction. But I'm in the shop right now, so remind me if I forget.

 

I guess I have more faith in people to not be dumb, but ya some variation is good - helps train pattern recognition

 

If you think that's rich.....
Mines even worse. 11.7 at 0-2 psi rn.
Purely because I have a ping I'm chasing in that range, but still.
Every ones situation is different, different motor, different forced injection, etc..

 

Did it ping with the factory ECU? Or did you never have boost with it?

 

Never tried a high boost setup with the factory ECU. Only low boost 5psi which had no issues with.
Not sure what's causing it. Current my running hypothesis is that I cann't scavenge the exhaust gasses fast enough so I have an LCE header and test pipe on the way. But if that doesn't help it, not sure what else to chase...

 

Stock computer is excellent about retarding ignition angle when any knock is heard, that's its only method of fighting spark knock. It has no knock enrichment logic.

 

This works for this build because of the slow boost ramp and there is a correction table for lambda that biases engine and intake temp to make a percentage change to this table so it cannot be used as an absolute on its own

 

I did watch the ignition, LTFT & STFT parameters on my scangauge when I ran it and it would retard the timing under boost. Sometimes into the low double digits

 

Mine did too when I had a 3RZ with Tyler's SC haha. I got really good at driving around the bad zones.

 

You don't have it boosted yet though right? Are you running this same map NA right now?

What pulley were you running? The same 7 or 8 psi pulley he's got now?

 

No I am not running this map, this from another truck I have worked on. Again, this map isn't absolute, it changes depending on temps due to the applied correction table. This map would work fine on an NA truck though, it just wouldn't use any of the positive pressure cells.

 

Same pulley, nothing really changed except at some point he killed the Pink injectors I was using and went back to browns

 

Sounds like you just need to retard timing more, like the factory ECU would..

Or are you saying boost cells beyond that perform just fine with similar timing and leaner mix?

 

Gotcha. Yea that and the post start up corrections, idle control, etc.
I'm not using the air temp correction table though. Just coolant tempt correction.

I would be curious how well an FMU would work with the 3rz SC and high boost pulley. 5vz guys seem to have good success with them on OEM ecu

 

If the headers don't help, then that's what I'll likely end up doing. I'm just hoping not so much to the point where I lose all my midrange power. Anything past 3psi works with reasonable timing and AFRs. It's only really in the -2.9-3psi range lower in the RPMs. Just have to be careful not to get too heavy in the throttle in that range. Especially if I'm carrying more weight

 

Are these percentage increases or..?

Sorry, haven't dipped into my Haltech yet