What Chainsaw do you run?

i bought the saw used <5 tanks run, and put the barkbox on before running it stock so I don't have a reference point. For one thing it is loud but thats to be expected.

 

Mostly run the 90cc saws now as the box wedge will make quick work of the large rounds

 

Stihl MS250 here. Did quite a rebuild on her this summer but shes running good now.

 

Currently running an Echo CS590. Love this chainsaw. Slowly working my way through a tree dumped off by a local arborist (thank you Chipdrop).



Also recently inherited my late father's Stihl MS180C. I need to get it on the bench for a good cleaning.

 

The Stihl 170's and 180's are really good little saws --but that starter mechanism on that one --good luck with that!

 

The Husky & Stihl clamshells are underrated saws

 

064 AV, totally rebuilt with all OEM parts, cases on up
Ports widened, high speed coil, squish tightened, OEM dual-port muffler.





I use a CBN wheel on the Oregon 511AX, best wheel I've ever used; not cheap but worth every penny

 

The handsaw

 

Perfected by the Norsemen

 

I have a tree that needs to come down.

I shopped 42cc 18" brand name, 60cc 20" Chinese, and 80v 18" battery.

...I chose battery.


Next week will be the test to see how well it bucks a backyard 20" tree.

 

Use a loop of .404 square ground

 

Motor oil, been using it for 30+ years in all my saws. It's a lubricate nothing more, no magic. Known old timers that used drain oil!

 

I wonder how much more environmentally friendly bar oil is. Just drained some gear oil and I am tempted to use it.

 

Nowadays it can be more expensive than what can be had at the farm stores.
Unless it's the really cheap non detergent oil or off brand oils

In temps below 30* I also use new motor oil
Don't use it in summer though, not enough "cling" and not enough viscosity.

Wouldn't ever put used motor oil in the saw!
It contains many nasty ingredients, byproducts of combustion engines.


Saws cost a good bit of $ now, sure as heck am not going to put used motor oil in the case.
Gear oil maybe.

I just buy in quantity at the sales, comes out to $6.50 to $7.00 a gallon or less.

 

The tackiness of bar oil is so that it will get around the end sprocket and back on the underside of the bar...where the wear/work occurs. If it just sprays off the end of the bar the chain and bar will wear fast and you'll see blueing on the bar from excess heat.

 

I have an Oregon electric self sharpening chain saw. It has worked well for me so far. I selected it because I read somewhere that Oregon saws were popular with users. I figured that it would last as long as I will--81 years old.

 

I forgot I was a part of this thread!!! More chainsaw porn.

 

Bottom photo is a 090 cylinder coupled with a 45mm stroke 154cc motor.

 

2 piece heads allow you more flexibility with compression and port numbers.