What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Finally, I changed out the front brakes on the Taco. I installed Stop Tech slotted rotors, pads, break lines and brake fluid flush. The difference from stock is definitely noticeable, of course. Excellent product and have used Stop Tech on plenty of my cars over the years. Now I can bring the 142hp, (maybe), truck to a stop safely on those high speed runs. This weekend the upgrade is from stock rear drums/shoes to Stop Tech full rear drum/shoes kit!
Aiming to outbreak GT500's, Hellcats and all exotics.............bottom line is, the breaks are done and off the to-do list.

 

What lbj replacement is that? Looks super beefy.

 

Total Chaos

https://www.chaosfab.com/lifestyle/blog/lower-uniball-conversion-1st-gen-tacoma-3rd-gen-4runner/

 

Ohhh those are the new ones. Nice! Costly, but nice!

 

So... Here's the next item that comes up to make my projects a pain in the ass.

I swear I cursed with this shit.



So... here's the problem. I honestly hadn't even given this part much thought until now. I set about sourcing mounting hardware, to mount the third member to the axle housing. I originally assumed it would be threaded for M10 x 1.25 bolts, like Land Cruiser housings are supposed to have. But I found the holes to not be threaded. So, I pulled out some measuring devices to see what I'm working with here. The holes are the same diameter as what is on the 3rd member (allowing an M10 x 1.25 bolt to pass through)



Well... this is a problem... Because if it is big enough for an M10 to pass through it, it's too big for an M10 stud to be threaded in to it. (was actually going to use grade 12.9 allen button head bolts from the inside, but either way these holes are too big for M10).

Ok... so I figure how bout M10 wheel studs. Well, the only M10 wheel studs I can find have a knurl of 10.2... which doesn't press in these holes either (still too small). The knurl needs to be a larger diameter. AND the holes, circled in red, need a minimum of 50mm length bolt due to the 3rd member... the only M10 wheel studs I am finding are about 29mm long. (you'd be surprised at what a pain in the ass it is to find actual dimensions for wheel studs).

So, I called Ruff Stuff. And of course they don't sell the hardware I need for this. Because of course they started taping these holes for M10 x 1.25.

Ruff Stuff pointed me to a website that sells the wheel studs in both the lengths I need, And they also happen to have the knurl diameter these holes were drilled for... I called them... And of course they are a Wholesaler and can't sell anything to me. They gave me a number for a vendor they sell to, hopefully they can help.

If they can't help me:
- I may need go down to the local Can Am dealer and see what they have for wheel studs (they should have M10, but everything I find for side by side wheel studs has shit for dimensions)

OR
- I'm considering M12 to M10 step studs and thread the axle housing to M12 stud. (not sure I'll be able to find the right lengths on these)

OR
- I may have to thread the housing to M12 and drill out the holes on the 3rd member to M12 diameter.

None of these options sound like what I really want to do here.

 

Can't use 12.9 Flange head M10 bolts from the inside and tack them? Seen that done with other housings. Other option if the holes aren't too big is to helicoil them for M10

 

I have thought about tacking them. I don't think I'd trust a 3rd member riding on Helicoil.

I'm also pondering welding around M10 bolts, where the knurl of a wheel stud would be, and seeing if my neighbor (a machinist with a lathe) can turn them down to a snug interference fit (essentially making my own wheel studs).

 

Helicoil (as long as the material is tapped properly for them) are usually a stronger connection than the base material into just a bolt alone. When I worked for the machine shop we would routinely tap materials for a helicoil instead of the bolt directly just for the extra strength.

http://crosstools.com.au/helicoil-type-inserts-technical-study-of-strength-and-pullout.html

But tacking a 12.9 inside probably work just as well here, depends on what kinda work you want to put into it. Can't deny tapping 10 holes into 3/8 plate isn't a small job, especially by hand haha.

 

Just a little bit. I think I got the last pair for the moment as there now out of stock.
They are pretty beffy.

 

Actually. Now that I think about it. I think I may have not been picturing this the way you were meaning.

Helicoiling the axle housing - and then - using a bolt from the back side, may be the easiest fix to this. When you said helicoil, I was picturing studs in the axle housing. The reason I was leary of that is studs already pose a problem with stripping and stretching. I get that helicoil makes a stronger connection, but I was just thinking adding in another layer to that mess is asking for it.

BUT... If I helicoil and then have the bolt heads on the inside of the housing, That may just be the ticket here.


For sure... taping in to a 3/8 plate is not my idea of a party.

 

What is the size are the holes drilled to on the housing? Going to a larger bolt hole will not hurt and will increase clamping force (with nut) on the 3rd member which is a good thing.

I'm thinking something like this would work.

Then the only holes that would need to be tapped are the very top/bottom due to the stud length and not having enough room/interference with the back of the housing. And for those you would just thread in bolts (after tapping) from the diff side.

$20 50mm Long Extended Wheel Studs Wheel Bolts Fit Toyota Tacoma m12x1.5x50 Year 1995-2021 1 Set 10pcs

https://www.amazon.com/Project-Inno...=&hvlocphy=9026825&hvtargid=pla-1437046095977

 

For you guys with solos lowers, try running a second bumpstop?

 

These suckers ain't light

 

are you asking if we do? or what?

I have one of the stock ones still on and modified Super bumps on the other. (as in front and back)

 

You have threads for two bump stops? My solo arms only have threads for 1 in the front

 

i think so. Lemme look at the photos..

 

Sorry Grammer and spelling are a 3rd language for me.
Yes, is anyone using both. The solo arms only have the one treaded hole. I thought about tapping a hole on the frame/bracket for the 2nd bump stop.

 

nope i just have the front one install with a modified super bump.

 

thanks for that info! This thing looks really cool! Similar to an Arduino, but specific for EFIE control, pretty sweet, gonna look more into it…

as for what an HHO system does for any engine… As far as I’m aware, the purported benefits include increase in horsepower, increase in fuel economy as well as a cleaner engine ei a more complete burn during cylinder combustion cycle. The more HHO you burn the more water you get in your exhaust. These are the supposed benefits, however, getting all of them to work well at once is not a walk in the park, there’s a lot of tuning involved. So far with my 3RZ I have achieved an impressive horsepower increase, and I do feel like my engine is running better in general, however, I have not yet been able to increase the fuel economy by very much. I’m not sure if it’s better or worse at the moment. This will involve installing the AFR gauge so that I can monitor it as I richer out my O2 signal to the computer, allowing for a more lean mixture overall. Obviously, I don’t want to burn my valves…
At this point, I feel, I still have some headroom to adjust my analog EFIE and lean out my AFR even more. However, some feedback on this specific truck says that it’s hard to gain fuel economy, perhaps due to the way the ECU is programmed. Therefore, I thought I may end up running some sort of OBD two chip. That was at least up until I saw your post about the mega squirt unit which I am excited to explore. Thanks!

 

Replaced my fan pulley bracket, cam shaft sensor, and thermostat. Fan pulley bearing was making a bit of noise and I have read those tend to fail pretty dramatically and my radiator is too new to risk. Replaced cam sensor and thermostat just as preventive maintenance. Timing belt still looked like new. PO replaced it at 120,000 and I am sitting at 263,000. I know the recommended interval.

Lagrange seemed to have the best deal.