dpele's 2010 Tacoma DCSB TRD Off-Road

Great picture there. Don't think I've ever actually seen your truck? We should do some photo shoots sometime.

That's interesting on the mirror, I replaced mine a while back with what I thought was the ultra-cheap knock-off version and it's been totally good. Can't even tell the difference aesthetically from stock.

 

Thanks! The door was closing and I was like hmmm... I don't take pictures very often... click! haha
I find the truck looks way smaller with the winter wheels on, even though they are actually taller than the summers. Stance and aggressive tires makes it look bigger I guess lol

We should meet up!
It would be sweet to have a YEG yota meet. Just do a coffee meet or something one Sunday. I have a couple buddies that would come.

Yeah it is really strange with the mirrors. The first crack was actually pretty useful because it was like a spotter mirror without the cost. But then the lens pretty much shattered this winter.
I decided to go with OEM so I can take the lenses out when I put in some puddle lights. Another project it looks like...

 

Funny how a little aesthetic thing changes the whole look, in't it!

Yeah - that would be great to hang out and see some more trucks. Sunday mornings and evenings would work for me (got band practice in the afternoon).

Tell me about it, I have thousands of dollars in projects on my garage shelves right now... my eyes are big and my time is limited... lol

 

Sounds good! I'll try to plan something later this spring.
I don't have too many mods backed up. I try to get them done ASAP haha

 

Full size spare!
285/70/17

Traded with someone locally my 16" spare for their 17" spare. Found a 99% tread used Duratrac and got it mounted.
No more flat tire fears!

 

My girlfriend got a new bike and her forks are wider than the previous so I bought some new fork mounts for the bike racks.
These new mounts can accommodate 100mm and 110mm wide forks with multiple different diameters.

 

Found the noisy problem!
I've been having some loud banging around lately that sounds like something is loose in the box. Turns out it's my read lower shock bolts. I have new spherical bearings and bolts coming in.
Note to self: replace your bolts when installing new parts!

I am replacing the sphericals because I am sure there is some wear on them throughout the years of bashing up and down. There doesn't seem to be much damage but silly not to replace them.
I didn't notice my bolts having any damage when installing my Elka's a couple years ago.








For the longest time I thought it was my box bed that was loose. There is a common problem with Tacomas that the box frame mounts grind away and causes play between your bed bolts and composite bed. I've been checking the box lately and it turns out it is something completely different.

 

Hey I might be interested in this.


Also did that bolt like… come right out?

Edit: ah now I get it.

 

The start to the Raised Rear Seat Delete!

I decided to go for the raised platform so I can still use the under-seat cubbies. This system will allow me to reinstall the seats in 10 minutes!
I used a 4'x8' sheet of 5/8" standard spruce. I still have lots leftover for more projects!


The top measures 22"W x 53-1/8"L with some edge cuts to match the bottom of the seat.







The front bottom attachment measures 12"W x 39-1/2"L. I reused the factory skid plate mounts. These bolts will be restored and refreshed prior to final installation.
I will also be replacing the top brackets with a 36" piano hinge that will allow easy storage when the platform isn't being used.



The rear attachment consists of two pieces.
The bottom rear mount measures 3"W x 53-1/8"L and secures to the factory seat mounts with 1.5" long 1/4" bolts.
The vertical piece measures 4-1/2"W x 53-1/8"L and is secured to the bottom mount with pocket screws. The rear top braces will be replaced with pocket strews.







I will be coving the entire platform with a black speaker box carpet.
The corners will also be sanded down so there aren't any sharp jagged edges.


My dad was in town and gave me a hand. Thanks dad for the help!

 

Finished up the Raised Rear Seat Delete!
I picked up some felt fabric from Frabricland. I went with the thinnest option because this thing won't be getting a bunch of abuse.
I used a 36" piano hinge so I can fold this thing up when I remove it. It collapses down to nothing.

I will need to pick up some metric bolts to replace the ones I reused and painted. After installing the fabric, the bolts are too short to bite into the threads.

 

I finally wired up my switch panel to be able to pull power from 2 different sources.
I bought a DPDT switch.

$10 TWTADE / 5Pcs Black ON/Off/ON DPDT 6 Pin 3 Position Boat Rocker Switch Car Auto Boat Rocker Toggle Switch Snap AC 250V 125V/20A KCD2-203

This is the one I used.


Here is how I wired it (see diagram). Very simple! No need to wire any negative wires.
Power source #1 is a fuse tap to "IGN Np.2". Power source #2 is a fuse tap to "PWR OUTLET". The other wire is the panel power load that runs through the fire wall to the switch board.




I 3D printed a mount for my switches.
The round momentary switch was used for my old panel. It was used to dim the panel. The new Auxbeam panel dims automatically but the switch still works.




This was my old set up.

 

Triple USB port added to the rear cupholder. It is fuse tapped to "PWR OUTLET" which is a constant ON.
The charge port has a button to turn it on and off, so I don't have to worry power draw when not in use.

 

3D printed chase light covers.
I used some amber light bar covers I had and cut one to fit.

 

Is that panel just mounted to the headliner? does it flex at all or is that what your 3d printed mount is for to keep it from flexing and push against the windshield? Thats awesome! I have been wanting to move to one of the auxbeam 8 switch units but cant decide where to mount the panel.

 

Yeah it's simply bolted through the headliner! It moves if you push on it hard but not floppy whatsoever.
It doesn't bounce around or anything.

 

Rear diff breather mod!

Parts:

• Union 3/8" OD -
  $7 Toyota Genuine Parts - Union (90404-51319)
  Here
• Vent (1/4"?)-
  $6 Dorman 924-284 Front Differential Vent Breather Compatible with Select Lexus / Toyota Models
  Here
  
• Hose 3/8" ID -
  $12 3/8" (10mm) ID Fuel Line Hose 10FT NBR Rubber Push Lock Hose High Pressure 300PSI for Automotive Fuel Systems Engines
  Here
• SS Clamps 16-18mm -
  10pcs All Stainless Steel Mini Fuel Line Pipe Hose Clamp Clip 6mm-20mm Optional Size (16-18mm)
  Here

 

Sound deadening!
After 7h I was only able to complete the 2 rear doors... maybe I put too much Kilmat inside the doors (nearly full coverage inside and out)?
I used cutting boards to make solid covers for the holes.

 

wow. Nice.
I really wanna get rid of the nasty plastic bag black goop inside my doors…

what cutting boards did you use?
How’d you fasten them?

did you have to do any prep inside the door to promote adhesion, like scrub and rinse out through bottom drain hole? To get rid of dust built up over time

 

^x2 on how you did the fastening. Threaded rivets? I’m half way through my rear driver side door deadening. Already did the same cutting board method in the front driver side since it has the plastic threads for that thin shit metal piece, but was unsure if the best method for attaching the rears.

 

Holy shit I’ve been searching for this exact same sound coming from my rear for months. I chalked it up to probably being my lead bushings, but this may be it. Imma have a look today.