Long Travel BS Thread

thanks, been a long build but ready to get back in the seat. No more sulking around here watching all peeps enjoying and hating their trucks

 

Actually my tires are C rated. That’s one of the reasons I went with the 38’s. 38’s are C rated and the 37’s are D rated (milestars). My old procomps were 37’s and E rated.

I guess what I was hoping is to valve soft for on road with bypass tubes open then turn them closed for off road. I guess that’s not the case though.

Also I guess I just over estimated LT setups. I’ve seen so many videos of trucks hoonin around on road that look like squishy marshmallows. I don’t know how they do it. I try and get told it’s impossible to have sole super squish ride on the road. Seems it has to ride like a tank on road in order to perform off road. Just doesn’t jive with what I see in videos. Who knows. I’ve kind of lost caring at this point. I need to remind myself I drive a truck and it should handle like a truck.

 

Word. I forgot how slick the Ford 9 looks with the DMZ kit. I always chuckle when I see Tacoma's on 35s and look at how tiny the rear axle is in comparison, same thing with Jeeps. For cheapskates like me, I'm probably gonna look for a tundra axle once I get the rear sorted out.

I think those trucks you see dumping themselves off of 4 foot loading docks are pulling more travel up front. Seen a lot of beamed rangers and wider chevys in videos. What you can also see is how well the suspension drops out on those rigs. I think @desertjunkie760 was talking about setting up the suspension to drop into obstacles. If it were me, I'd spend time playing with it in the whoops if its that kind of performance you're after.

Edit: somebody loan me $$$ so I can buy the JD rear kit.

 

Don’t be afraid to try stuff. Personally I’d mess more with the coil over because lightening up the bypass too much will really affect it when you do go off road. But if the coil over doesn’t give you the results you want then mess with the bypass as well. No one here is going to be able to post the exact valving specs you need to make your truck handle the way you want it to. Take suggestions with a grain of salt and do with it as you see fit.

 

It doesn’t help if you are watching videos of trucks that have more up travel at ride height than your total wheel travel. Having dual rate springs also makes a huge difference. You can sit a couple inches off the secondary for a really squishy ride and then when you engage the secondary things ramp up quick

 

I'll loan you the money but I can't say you'll enjoy the interest rate.

 

Yeah it can get crazy with what bypasses you can go with. if you stick with a three tube its not too bad but get into 5 tubes and things get pricey. at least coilovers are actually pretty reasonable until you have to swap springs around. but my biggest expense with my 4 link was 100% my camburg 9".

 

I'm already looking forward to the next pismo trip

 

june 9-11 for me

 

Clay this is the go fast club. Get your rock crawler out of here. #triggered

 

Who said rock crawlers can't go fast?

 

Oh yeah for sure. That makes perfect sense as well as most of the videos are super built trucks. Only a few here and there that have mildly built trucks like mine. Need to keep that in mind.

Good point. I completely agree with trying stuff as well. It’s pretty easy to swap shims around. That’s what I did with the rear - tried all sorts of setups and drove it to see what those changes did.

With that said I think I’ll pop the coilovers off this weekend and mess with them. Don’t want to touch the bypasses yet since I am waiting for the new shafts and don’t want to take them apart twice.

Also get not being able to copy people’s settings. There are so many variables; driving styles, weight, different kits/setups, etc.

With that said, my coilovers are 10/10. What thickness flutter did you use? My rear I tried a couple different ones (I’d have to go back to notes to see where I landed) and settled on a thicker one.

 

Does lower shock mount angle of the dangle matter on the rear axle?

 

weld it on, run it, re-valve it, break it, weld it on another place.

 

That fat pig ain’t gonna go fast for anyone

 

Unless you are building yours from scratch you can’t really adjust the angle.

If you get a kit you have a bed cage (upper mount) and some shock tabs. Bolt shock into upper mount, bolt tabs to lower end of shock, install leaves stripped down to only the top single, compress suspension until axle hit frame, tabs will only land in one spot. Weld on.

If you are building your own kit, enjoy the rabbit hole.

 

I like your style

 

Trying to decide on flutter shims to add in my coilover I came across Accutune’s “superior” double flutter. Not that I need to run this double flutter (I might just pop in a 15 after shim 1 but I’m curious what it is. I tried google’ing every version of double flutter but only got results from them. Only thing offered was this pic. My first guess would be multiple flutter shims in different spots, but the pic doesn’t look like it. Just a major thick shim in position 2.

 

i wonder if its referring to a flutter on compression and rebound. when king revalved my old rear shocks they where talking about that accutune ordered them like that from them, they where very critical of it and said in all there testing they've never seen it work better and said only accutune does the rebound one...they basically said it was dumb.

 

I have also seen double flutter on Compression side. Cant say it was from accutune or someone else, ive opened so many shocks before. But Even hearing from fox say adding the flutter benefits from 2nd inbetween 3rd shim largest shim. Usually see it as a .010” and a 1” diameter or so. I wouldnt do double.