El Taco Diablo... Mall Crawlin, now with LT for tall curbs

And just like that, I'm a little more broke.

 

For the lug studs use this part number, dorman I believe:

That's what I used for my fronts with IFS hubs and taco rotors on my solid axle.

As for the spindle question, I would just keep your eyes peeled for some stock ones. Also fj60/62s use the same mini truck spindle so that may expand your used parts search a bit. All the mini truck solid axle stuff, and cruisers I listed, use the same spindles.

 

I searched for spindles on FB and Craigs with no luck. Hopefully ma boy @MattJakobs comes through. He's normally pretty clutch.

 

Yea that's the down side of "keeping it all Toyota" as parts can be kind of a PITA to find as opposed to American based axles.

 

They're out there. Just not really in the used market here local (right now).

If Matt's don't work out I'll either do a set from FrontRange or these from Nitro.

https://justdifferentials.com/spind...nner-landcruiser-bj-fj-40-42-55-60-62-70.html

There's plenty of sources for them. Hell, I'll be driving past Trail Gear today on the way to Death Valley. I should pick up a set lol

 

Can't believe there is a market for rusty ass spindles for $100+/ea. on eBay. Worth it to avoid the headache with used spindles and fubar'd threads vs brand new. Nitro makes some pretty good stuff.

 

Ya... I saw some of the shit on eBay. That's not even an option. lol

With how much I'll end up spending on this axle, it would be ridiculous to cap it off with spindles that look like they came off the Titanic.

 

For wheel studs, I used 02 Lexus is250 studs. Slightly longer since I ran 1/4 spacers. Not sure if that works for what you want to accomplish.

 

Ordered the bearings, wheel seals, new spindle nuts, and a spindle nut socket. (did solid axle wheel bearings).

 

So I thought of this post/thread after my post frame chop shakedown run 2 weeks ago and I was at a rest stop looking at my LSPV leaking from a rust hole! I was going to swap in another one, said nope when I saw the price and going to take another stab at a manual one. Fingers crossed it doesn't leak like the last time I tried this, but I also didn't order FRORs shitty one so I should be ok.

 

I haven't put it in... but I ended up ordering a Wilwood.

 

I’m interested to hear the results. I’ve been going through front pads, starting to think I might be doing the wilwood as well.

 

Wilwood whole system is the way to go. Auto low low crawlbox with Tundra front and 4runner rear disks I can actually stop the truck from moving.

Which is no easy feat, and havnt heard too many setups that can.

 

I didn't end up doing the full system Wilwood. Just replacing the LSPV. I'll be running Lexus brakes in front with 4 Runner brakes in back.

 

I could do that with the stock brake system (lspv pinned up) with fj80 rear discs. Super handy on an uphill.

 

Ok... Someone check my work and let me know if I'm not thinking of something.

Alignment wasn't all that great when I finished the LT. Didn't have time to dial it in. (Now I'm going to pay the price because the front tires are getting beat... but that's a different story)

Best I can tell, to get this proper is this.

I lifted the truck to get the front wheels and coilovers off.

I used a bottle jack on one side to level the truck side to side. (or close enough to level, the bumper is pretty straight relative to everything else)



I straightend the steering wheel. Then measured the inner tie rod portion of the rack to ensure they are the same on both sides (to ensure I haven't skipped a tooth in the rack and didn't get the rag joint off a spline when I was doing the body lift) I got the same measurements.

I lifted each of the LCAs so that the bump pad is the same distance from the hydrobump at ride height.





To set Toe, I measured from the outer tab for the alignment bolts to the angle iron lugged to the wheel mounting surface on the front bolt, and then on the back bolt, and brought the measurement so it is the same front and back. Once I did both sides that way, I measured from the front end and back end of the angle irons from one side to the other to check my work and ensure tires track straight.

For Chamber, since my LCAs are at the position they would be at ride height, and the truck is level side to side, I ran a laser level to check if the angle iron is plumb. It is... telling me my tires are straight up and down.

Anyone think I'm missing anything here?

 

Asside drone no mention of caster measurements it sounds like you fit it right aside from I think you are supposed to set camber before you set toe. By getting your LCAs to ride height relative to bump stop with the tires off should give you the same measurements as if the truck was on its own weight on the tires.

This is a good write up I have used to get close before taking my truck to get it aligned.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-do-an-alignment-at-home.252256/

 

Caster is no longer a consideration of mine lol. I just have it set where I need it, and with the cams being eliminated and the tabs back welded so they can't bend, it doesn't change from where I have it set.

Setting chamber at the UCA arms instead of down at the alignment cams... I don't think it would matter as much if it was toe then chamber or chamber then toe... At least it didn't seem to, because my toe measurements stayed the same after I did chamber and before I put the wheels on.

 

Things are starting to make sense.

 

Yes, my garage is a disaster. But, I was able to mock up and find what length the axle is as of now.

81 inch mocked up WMS to WMS