What Chainsaw do you run?

Husqvarna!

 

You guys have some good taste

 

This was a fun build. The only time I ran it in competition I took 2nd place against piped saws. I ended up sending down under and am waiting patiently to see how it performs down there in the hands of a very talented sawyer.

SHE LOUD

 

Stihl Gang be like (just kidding fellas!!!!!!)

 

Old stihl 025 with a 16'' bar. Its got more time, and new parts on it than my tacoma.

 

The first photo of the piece of firewood was saved from the fire, and ended up being a door stopper.

 

Show me some really dirty saws that work in a wood lot not some high performance shiny things that have to be rebuilt after a a couple of computations.

 

Why don’t you go FUCK YOURSELF instead :0)

 

My choice as well,,,,

 

Dang. This saw bucks.

I've run corded and I've run 50cc 2 strokes. I've never had one with instant torque before. It rips through wood like a saw should. The only downside is that it's claim of 150 cuts on a charge gets progressively smaller when you start cutting larger pieces. It took a single charge to limb and buck the upper half. It took two additional charges to buck the lower half.

I might have to get a bigger battery pack.

I'm still super happy that I went with this over a gas saw though.

 

How long does it take to charge a battery?
Seems like it could get dangerous cutting down a tree with that many beer breaks inbetween

 

25 minutes for their 2 Ah battery, add 20 minutes if it decides it needs to cool down first. It's insane. I've never had an electric charge faster than I can deplete it. Makes me debate on whether to buy a second battery or buy their pole saw that comes with one.

 

I added a 562XP with 28" bar to the stable.

Nice saw, looking forward to opening the muffler up after it's had a few tanks of petrol run through it.

 

Chain's loose

 

Chain is just right. A little "droop" is good, especially on a 28" bar.

If your chain is too tight, it will wear the bar prematurely.

 

Dang, you might just kick off a spirited chain tension debate.

The manual I just read echoes the rule of thumb I was taught: I always thought you were supposed to tug on the chain at the center point of the bar, and just barely see daylight under one or two drive links. You were not supposed to see daylight if you tugged on the chain at the bar end.

Yes?

I'm just a backyard tinkerer, a weekend sawyer, don't know much about it admittedly.

 

Ask any experienced logger, they will tell you the real deal.

 

To expand on this......

The rule of thumb that you were taught is good for small bars, say 16".

When you start getting into bigger bars it takes a lot more tension for the chain to be that tight. Droop is definitely ok when you start talking 20" and up bars.

 

That’s how the local loggers explained it to me. More rotating mass (heavy, long chain) will wear out the tip of the bar if it’s too tight. Shorter bars it doesn’t matter much.

Also forgot to show the mini muffler mod to the 261. Makes it incredibly loud… but fun to use. Small difference in power.


We dropped a ponderosa that just kept making a mess. Only one on my property. Probably 20 Douglas firs and 1 stupid ponderosa that accounts for 90% of the mess.

 

On a bigger bar performance will really suffer if the chain is too tight. A droopy chain is a fast cutting chain.

The muffler on my 261 is modded almost exactly like yours. I sent my 261 to Mastermind in TN and did a mild rebuild and some performance mods on the internals (wizardry). That little saw really rips now, but it still can't keep up to my stock 550XP (timed cuts, same exact Oregon chain). The only thing that I did to the 550 was open up the muffler, that saw is a little monster.