ARB compressor wire melting?

This wouldn’t be the first time they haven’t been much help with their products. I read some other testimony with them not being too helpful with their old crappy locker seals and just blaming the installers before they finally revised the seal design.

They likely outsource their harnesses to bulk supplier who builds to spec. They seem to outsource a lot more of their stuff than people realize. They don’t build those UCAs their logo is on. A harness with quality crimped connections, quality fuses and wire shouldn’t just melt all the sudden.

 

Can you get a replacement harness with fuses from ARB?

 

If they don't replace it, I'll cut off the problem area and the fuses, then replace with a more robust solution.

That's disappointing.

I don't mind the outsourcing; many companies outsource components to specialty firms, but they still need to stand behind their products.

 

Thanks for posting this.

I'm doing OBA soon and it's good to know there's no point in paying the ARB premium anymore.

 

Well, ARB USA has gone dark.

Looks like I'll have to replace this myself.

 

Sucks. These days I pretty much assume that warranty/customer service is gonna be worthless. /-:

 

Are you good to go or do you need help? Feel free to DM any questions if you were closer I would be glad to help in person DFW is just a tad to far to stop over for a few hours.

I would guess your response was from a clueless Customer Service person looking at a computer screen .

Which is as close to the real product as they have ever been. The sad fact far to much Customer service is now in that fashion.

Good Luck!

 

Thank you for the offer and well wishes. Current plan is to cut fuses out, go from the battery to two 40a Bussman circuit breakers with 8 awg wire, then connect the rest of the existing wiring harness to the other side of the breakers.

$32 Bussmann CB285-40 Surface-Mount Circuit Breakers, 40 Amps (1 per pack)

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB285-40-Surface-Mount-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B01G5WHRPC
as an example.

It seems like ARB broke up each compressor into its own wiring/fuse, so I intend to keep it that way.

 

^These type of breakers are good. It's convenient to press the button to open the breaker and de-power the circuit for servicing.

I use a single 100A version of this (

$45 BP/CB185-100 100 Amp Circuit Breaker

BP/CB185-100) for my AliExpress compressor (which draws up to 90A) and it's been reliable.

 

I had something similar on my lift gate.

As that is just an example I would look at 40amp weather proof being under the hood just in case.

I am sure we would love to see more pictures of the cause of this melt down.

 

Curious, OP, did you put a amp meter on it to see what it was actually drawing when running? I bet it’s higher than what it’s normally rated for. Hopefully the compressor itself is in good shape. This is also why I wouldn’t put electric equipment like a compressor in the engine compartment, especially if I was in a rust belt area with road salt.

I’m just curious if the compressor motor is driving extra amps due to internal corrosion.

 

Good point, I didn't consider the weatherproof requirement - but you're right.

No... we don't have the same corrosion issues here as many other parts of the country, but it's still possible. I haven't considered measuring it, but it might be worth buying a tool.

Would this work?

$22 Proster Digital Clamp Meter 2000Counts TRMS 600A AC Current AC/DC Voltage NCV Continuity Resistance Temperature Hz Test

https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Auto...s=hi&sprefix=amp+meter,tools,124&sr=1-30&th=1

Then I "clamp" over each wire with the compressor running?

 

only the positive wire one at a time.

All motors have in rush current at start up might be as high 3 times normal current .

Another thing if your voltage drops to low the amperage will increase.

 

Normally the ARB twin draws 50A total or 25A per "channel". It's well under the 40A rating of the fuse and the 8 ga wires are normally good for 40A. It's likely a substandard crimp at the fuse holder.

That one measures AC current only, not DC. DC current clamps are more expensive:

$48 KAIWEETS HT206D Digital Clamp Meter T-RMS 6000 Counts, Multimeter Voltage Tester Auto-ranging, Measures Current Voltage Temperature Capacitance Resistance Diodes Continuity Duty-Cycle (AC/DC Current)

https://www.amazon.com/KAIWEETS-Multimeter-Auto-ranging-Temperature-Capacitance/dp/B07Z398YWF/

 

A multimeter can measure amps- more accurate as well. But not that many! The DC clamps may work as above. If the internals of the compressor are corroded and shot, it could draw more amps as well. But you are right, it’s more likely the crimped connectors.

 

Also the draw increases as the pressure rises. At tire pressures it only reaches 50A(25A per) but if you push it nearer the limit of the compressor it rises to 68.5A.

 

That’s total amps, not per each compressor, right?

 

Yes. Under 30A total no load, ~50A at 29 psi topping out at 68A+ By the time it hit 150psi. Likely not occurring unless you need that much or have a tank and 150psi pressure switch.

 

I do have a tank; the pressure switch is what came with the compressor.

Don’t think I need that much though, so I could replace the pressure switch to a lower one to save wear on the compressor?

Just use it for lockers and tires.

edit: possible replacement: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arb-co35sp

 

Yes, that will lessen the wear on the compressor.