Intro to fitting 35s (< 3" Lifts for those that wheel and love alignments)

Since I don’t take my truck to the track or drive aggressively around town, I think of a sway bar as a safety device that will help me control the truck in an emergency situation where I am forced to turn very sharply at high speed. This outweighs the minor disadvantages of the sway bar in my mind. Albeit, I’ve never removed mine and tested the difference.

 

Sway bar =

 

I feel like if you get into a situation where you are swerving hard enough to flip over a sway bar isn’t going to make a huge impact on what speed you can safely swerve.

Side note I drive a canyon everyday, at speed, with a heavy truck and soft suspension and I don’t mind it. I have one long sweeper that banked I can but fast enough my traction control light turns on due to the sway.

 

Was able to find a local shop to do a Body mount relocation, pinch weld and viper cut for around 600 with parts and labor included to be able to fit 315 75 16 Is that a fair price

 

Seems like a good price to me

 

Another vote to toss the sway bar. I resisted doing so for a long time as I occasionally drive fast on winding mountain passes, but I'm so glad I finally did it. The suspension is SO much better off road and the effect on road is minimal. There's a slight increase in body roll, but it's not bad at all. Even with my 35s, soft suspension and tall ride height, it never feels like the truck is getting away from me on corners at speed.

 

Think I want to play with my alignment some more before we take off to KOH.. I'm currently running Taco Tabs and have the rears set for max clearance (maxed outboard) and the fronts at neutral. It's been pretty good actually.. but I occasionally slightly rub on the firewall wheeling during certain situations. Wondering if that little extra positive caster I could get from adjusting the front tabs to max inboard would do the trick. I am curious how much it will change camber though, since I'm already at -.4 driver and 0 passenger. I'll have to do my adjustments, rough set Toe, then take it in to get it really aligned and see what it's at.

 

Looking at either 0.5" or 0.75" Bora spacers to get 0 offset 17x8.5 wheels to work with 35s. 0.5" require swapping out wheel studs for extended length (https://www.wheeladapter.com/product/extended-wheel-studs-for-toyotas) and the spacer just slides on top of the new studs before the wheels (https://www.ebay.com/itm/264548447876) 0.75" spacers are the standard kind (https://www.ebay.com/itm/254435763901) and looks like the Method bead grips have some pockets for the excess stud length to fit. Any difference in safety between these two styles of spacers from Bora? I think the 0.5" style would make maintenance and suspension work easier in the future so leaning in that direction.

 

Maybe one of you guys will be able to help me out.

I’ve got 16x8 0 offset 4.5 backspacing.
Have 315/75/16 BFG AT KO2s.
Caster is at 3.4 R and 3.7 L.

I have to throw a spacer on the front (1.25”) to not rub my TC upper arm / spindle but now I’m rubbing hard on the fire all at full lock.

I want to get rid of the spacer but not sure what offset/bs to go with to get rid of it. Picture of the space now with the spacer on.

I was looking at the SCS BR6 16x8 -12 4BS but not sure if that will work?

anyone have some input?

 

I suggest you read the thread you posted in. Fitting 35’s is not as simple as wheel spacers and alignment.

 

Removed my sway bar few weeks ago. My only regret is that I waited almost 5 years to remove it.

Im lifted 2”, running 33x10 tires and about 650 pounds of extra weight. Truck rides great.

 

Here's an 07 Tacoma with 315s running our SR8 16x8 -12mm, no spacers needed.

 

Been there done that Lol fenders are chopped, cab mount is relocated, pinch weld is is bent. I’m on the last 2 things to get these to rub minimally and I’m rubbing the firewall bad because of the spacer I’m running.

 

Cool, I’m still a little concerned about the spindle though. I’ll shot you a PM though, might just order one wheel and test it?

 

Should be easy enough to figure out given you have both the spacer and wheel measurements. If you can reduce the gap to the spindle by 3/4” then you know you just need a backspace that’s about 1/2” less or so.

 

Makes sense how would I do that calculation. Im at an 1 1/2” from the sidewall to the spindle/uca ( basically the size of my spacer ).

I think I’m at ~ -38 mm and 3.5 bs with the spacer. ( Spacer is 1 1/4” ). So technically a -12 mm / 4.00bs wheel should work?

 

Also should I take into account the side wall flex when I air down?

 

You flex low not high so shouldn’t be a factor on the spindle

 

@JoeCOVA was I correct on the guesstimate on the bs and offset in my previous comment?

 

Check out my posts in the last few pages. This should tell you what you are in for. SCS should give you clearance to the UCA as well as more clearance at the rear of the well. You'll most likely rub like hell on the sway bar after that. Once you remove the sway bar, you will then rub on your King reservoirs (I'm assuming you have them from your pic). I ended up putting a 10mm hub centric spacer and ARP studs cut to length to help clearance my reservoirs. That said I still rub in spots.