3.4L supercharger

Unfortunately I have no idea how many miles were on my rotor pack, I bought my supercharger used. If you pull your rotor pack out you can see the coating flaking off when it’s time to be replaced. Also for those wondering, I got a brand new OEM rotor pack through super chargers online.

 

I doubt that would be the issue as my supercharger is only a year old and I've probably only put 2k on it since then. When I went to install the boost gauge (I hand done so when I first had it for a few months) I had a hell of a time with the boost hoses. This is because I'm actually a 91 pickup 3.4 swap so there is less space and everything is RIGHT up to the fire wall. I've never been so frustrated with something I thought would be so simple, I just couldn't get at things very well. Its the only thing in my engine bay that isn't meticulously done. I'm wondering if I'm just leaking slightly.

I was thinking of getting one of these boost junctions and running a line from the boost port to the left side of the engine bay (or right) so that when I need to I can access everything very easily. Has anyone installed something similar and are they reliable?

https://damondmotorsports.com/products/vacuum-block?variant=36560502929

It seems like a really simple piece.

I'm pretty happy with the performance of everything, but its just the reading where I'm going, hmm I should have a LITTLE more.


I DO have a URD crank shaft. Has anyone had much experience with these? URD was all the rage and now I'm seeing some mixed reviews even though it seemed really well built. My 2.2 pulley is URD and so is my tensioner Pulley.

The last thing I could mention is that I have an aftermarket DC power Alternator installed and I had ordered a T100 one as thats what my swap was from. It BARELY fit, I had to really make it work, and so I'm curious if the belt tension could be different at all. Theoretically the tensioner pulley should keep the pressure constant, no? Or could there be enough margin of error from the position of the alternator pulley where its not getting the same tension????

This is just a hobby of mine so forgive me if any of this sounds stupid.

 

Yeah the rotor pack likely isn't worn after just a year of use.

 

Hi all, So I ended up working on ALL of my boost lines today. I took a good 4 hours and installed the Damond Boost junction. Its nice because it comes with 7 ports so If I ever need to tap into it with something else, I can easily add or take away things as well. For anyone with a 3.4 swap in a Pickup generation truck, I think it is essential as you cannot get to ANYTHING without a big fight. I guess the argument could be that you are creating more places for a leak, but I didnt feel confident with any of those plastic "T"s.

Essentially it mounts wherever with one bolt. I used a thread that was on the fire wall. You can tap whichever connector you want. I went with the Push connectors after researching a TON of racing and turbo sites. My thought was if its good enough for them with 15 pounds of boost, its fine for my use. They are amazing as you can pull them out if you need to get to something else. The only pieces I used rubber tubing was the outlet that goes to the stock FMU since its that little nozzle thing. In the back of the supercharger I just took out the 1/8inch barb and put in a push connector. I ran one of the plastic press fit tubes to my boost gauge through the fire wall, I then T'd off of that to go to my AEM water meth controller.

The only other one that I had to go with the rubber vacuum tubing was for my URD 7th injector. I figured it was fine and I'll live to fight another day and change it out when I'm redoing something in a similar area. Here are the photos, it looks good and is simple. I know there are a lot of cheaper ones on Amazon but I just figure you get what you pay for. Oh and ignore the long ass barb, I couldn't find 1/8in NPT to 1/8 inch barb at my local Home Depot and didnt want to have my daily driver down for 3 days while I wait for the new on in the mail.





Now for the results. I am now getting about 1 pound more of boost from this setup. Also It took care of a small buzz I was having I assume from the boost. Also, my response time seems a bit zippier. This could all be in my head.

So currently 8.5pounds with a 2.2 Pulley, URD crank shaft, Idler arm etc.

I'm still convinced that I'm getting SOME belt slip and Im thinking its the position of my larger alternator putting the dynamic tensioner pulley in not quite the right position. This is after reading like 50 pages from this forum where some others were having a similar experience.I'm wondering if I need to play with that position, but I dont have much choice with how large my alternator is. If I am feeling inspired I might remove it for the stock one to see if that fixes anything...

Anyway, I'm pretty happy with the boost junction box, no more screaming while leaning over my engine when I do ANYTHING with my boost hoses.

 

I got rebuilt bypass valve back from Jon Bond Performance a few weeks ago and installed it.

I’m still getting the P0171 code so apparently that wasn’t the vacuum leak.

I think I’ve been chasing this thing for a year. I’ve cleaned the MAF probably 9 times.
At idle STFT are 9-12%, LTFT are 35%.
Under load they drop to .73%

I’ll get no CEL on long drives but as soon as I’m back in traffic I get the CEL.

When I turn the truck off a hissing sounds comes from the right side of the engine. I think that has to be it but I can’t seem to isolate it.

I have this shitty smoke machine when I use it smoke comes out from somewhere but it’s out of view and it seems like the smoke is coming from everywhere.

Sorry for the rant.

What a pain in the ass.

 

I think you're on the right track with the smoke machine. Mine has been really useful for finding leaks anywhere on the truck.
Perhaps remove the SC and smoke test it separate from the truck.

 

Check valve on brake booster?

 

Well if you hear hissing noise your on track for it being a vacuum issue and ANY vacuum leak will send the supercharger and engine in a tail spin for performance.
The dealership changed me 100 to find a vacuum leak that I couldn’t find FYI.
It’s probably right in front of you hiding

 

I did that and found the bypass valve leaking. Got the bypass valve rebuilt re-installed.
Maybe, I'll do this again. It could be the bypass valve o-rings leaking.
Or do what John did and take it to a dealer.

Will do. The brake booster itself is only 6 months old, but that doesn't mean it's not leaking.

I might just do this. It'll be worth less frustration for sure.
I said exactly this last night....I bet I'm looking directly at it but just don't see it.

 

I'm always so impressed by the inhabitants of Tacomaworld.

What was the source of your vacuum leak?

 

It was a vacuum leak on the bypass shaft on the supercharger. The shaft and bearing were worn out

 

I know this is old, but I had pulleys machined to fit on a press fit and they seem to be working fine. Its annoying that the newer ones have press fit, but its kind of all I could do over the peak of the pandemic.

 

Yeah, this possibility was mentioned several pages back. Do you mind sharing who made a replacement pulley for you?

 

I'm sure pulley boys would do a custom one for you

 

Well, I purchased my supercharger a year and a half ago and it came with the press on to my dismay. Magnuson said they would only make them that way from now on but now I've been seeing them with the bolt on. Also I see URD has complete nose cones for around 700 dollars so I suppose if that ever needed rebuilt I could go back.

I just purchased the URD 2.2 and had a machine shop match the existing press fit. I took a heat gun and heated up the new pulled, and then it slipped on with a pulley installer from another generation supercharger. It was pretty easy and I havent noticed any problems. The shop charged me 80 bucks because he said he couldn't justify charging me more than the pulley was worth. Thus far its worked quite nicely and I'm at about 9.5 pounds of boost. There is a part of me that is curious if a design like that could ever slip, although I know a lot of other chargers use this design.


Anyway, pull your old pulley off, take it in with the URD, and there is enough space for them to machine a hole in the pulley and it should slip right on. I would suggest using heat to remove and install, and then a press fit pulley installer from URD and it pops right on.

 

This is it installed. If anyone has any thoughts on why this wouldnt be a good idea let me know, hahaha. It was a suggestion from gadget.

 

as a note, since Im a bit of a freak, I marked its position with a sharpie and it did move for several months and then I felts like it was good to go and erased it.

 

Thanks for sharing your solution. I have actually acquired a keyed pulley snout from another TW member for when I am ready to move to a smaller pulley.

I hadn't seen this replacement snout assembly from URD before. Maybe I missed it but I don't think so. It must be a recent addition.

https://urdusa.com/magnuson-replacement-nose-drive-3-4l-supercharger-system/#

It is interesting that it does not mention it can be used as a replacement snout for the magnuson units that came with a press-on pulley.

 

I was told that the only thing that it would replace it. I'm curious what supply shortage made this necessary? Anyway, regardless Its working fine for me so its just an annoying step if I ever want to buy a pulley. Just tacks on 80 dollars.I am wondering if I should just get a steel 2.2 machined for press fit, anyway.

oh and yes that nose cone assembly is new at least within the last few months.

 

The dealer says they ran a smoke test and the leak is coming from where the 7th injector mounts to the super charger.

I ordered a new gasket from URD. I’m out of town and come back Monday night. I’m going to pick up the truck for the dealership Tuesday after work and replace the gasket whenever it shows up.