130k 2016 OR Throwout Bearing squeal

Hey all, wishing good health on everyone during these absurd times... apologies in advance for the length.

Right to the point my '16 Off-Road 6spd has had a squeaky throwout bearing for a few thousand miles now, on and off, I can't ignore it anymore after the dealer couldn't diagnose it.

Problem: Throwout bearing is touching pressure plate fingers, causing a squeak and early wear on components.

The long and short of it is I've read a write up for the R-A60 trans from the member here gearcruncher, excellent write up btw, while I knew it would not completely apply to the 3rd Gen's, it was the only hope I had found.

After figuring out that no adjustment to the pushrod at the master cylinder would back my throwout bearing off of the pressure plate fingers, I am at a standstill.

There is debate amongst 2nd gen owners as to what the proper method of repair is, I assume Toyota designed it to need a new clutch as classic planned obsolescence would suggest at this point, I'll stifle my rage over that.

The state of the world has shuttered the service department at local dealers, and I'm left wondering what my next move is.

What I " think"I know:
1. There should be a gap between TOB and clutch fingers
2. Pedal is designed so that master cylinder pushrod is not bolted to the clutch pedal, therefore pedal height cannot be used to adjust the pushrod any further to back it off the fingers.
3. I have tried adjusting cylinder pushrod to both ends of the spectrum with no effect on the TOB or clutch fork.

A video of the problem.
I have been researching and still am, I don't know what I hope to gain by sharing this but I'm preparing for major frustration.

 

I have no useful advice for you regarding your throwout bearing or your clutch fingers. But I do have advice for your regarding your human fingers. You're nuts putting them close to rotating machinery like that, and you're doubly nuts for doing it with gloves on. I'd advise against doing that.

Short of that, good luck solving this issue. Keep those digits safe!

 

The TOB is a known issue.
I have 145k on mine mine has internment squeals and so on.
I adjusted mine as on you have and my master cylinder has now broken.
I now have to replace it. $120.

I will be replacing the clutch system with factory parts other than the TOB unless they have a revision on the TOB.
They do make aftermarket ones that are feed with brake fluid so they never squeak if you want a link

 

I sincerely appreciate the concern! My hand was actually very clear of any rotating parts, not to shrug off your advice, I will keep that in mind next time, I was afraid of using anything else for fear it would slip off and put me on 1000 Ways to Die. If you saw where I was at the time of doing this you'd probably have a few extra points of concern! Lol

 

I would appreciate any links you've found in your process. Do you have any inkling on what may have caused the actual cylinder to break? I hadn't considered it would be the next culprit. I had a good hearty laugh at what's keeping the pedal from launching towards my knee as well. I agree in thinking it may just need a clutch job/components as the only salvation.

 

I can appreciate being in the moment and doing things a bit cowboy and I'm sure it looked closer in the video than it really was. I've nearly lost my fingers a few times... Once in a fishing trip when I went to grab a loose down-rigger cable (not thinking). Luckily my buddy, the captain, smacked my hand out of the way and grabbed the spool, saving my fingers. As I get older, I've become a bit more cautious ever day.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/urd-fix-u-hydro-bearing-conversion-kit-the-fix.420755/
Here is the hydro bearing
I'll look for others that have talked about his.

 

Oof, I've seen the scary side of that going wrong before...not fun, glad you're intact! A warning I genuinely won't soon forget. Agreed on the cowboy method, frustration has a way of creating complacency.

 

@Sheppington
More
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-clutch-yep-already-urd.501786/

 

Looks like the link for the hydro bearing may be gone. I'd have to read further on whether they're available anymore.

 

I could have sworn I read the manual Tacomas were inherently more reliable than the automatics lulz.

Sorry OP, best of luck.

 

@Sheppington
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-masters-internal-release-bearing-group-buy.643445/unread
Here is more on another thread

 

TOB is full-contact on the 3rd Gen RC62F. RA60 trans released with a bad design, that would cause intermittent contact of pressure plate fingers with TOB as the clutch wore in. This was later corrected to be full contact. There is a good write up on the RA60 that documents this well, there are two different clutch suppliers and each one had to have a specific throw out bearing.

 

Mine’s squeaking now at 168k miles. Debating on whether or not to just have the clutch replaced. Cheaper than a new truck. I can get it to go away for awhile by cautiously spraying some slick50 on the shaft and working the clutch petal a few times to work it into the bearing. This lasts a few weeks until the truck sits for awhile. Anyone know a reasonable price to have a clutch job done.

 

If it were me, I'd just get it replaced, I drove the truck too much and they have such a reputation that I refused to listen to that f***ing noise every day.

At the time I paid for a new clutch, had flywheel resurfaced, a new throw out bearing, however the fork was what I believed to cause some of the wobble on the bearing and I neglected to change it the first time. A head tech at Toyota did it as side work for me, I don't recall the price tho maybe $800-$1200?. 10k miles later...the noise came back and I flipped out, had him open it up again and change the fork that time with another bearing, there's a stupid plastic bushing in the fork that I assume is another contributor to this problem. I picked up some Chromoly grease from Honda that they use in the clutch fork assemblies from a suggestion I found here, and had the installer put some on the clutch fork pivot with the new fork. Deleted the clutch line accumulator as well. No noise for maybe 40k mi.

If you can get your truck to Cali, the guys who make the hydraulic bearing can work your trans to make one for you, I had no options.

Around 200k, it came back only slightly...got pissed again, loaned the truck to my dad for 2 months, bought a Prius for work, and it hasn't been back since, but now I put maybe 200 miles a month on it, instead of 2400.

Another thing to check is the pushrod off the slave cylinder touching the clutch fork, could be squeaking, maybe grease it. Clutch pedal adjustment/pushrod adjustment does nothing to affect the throw out bearing in relation to the clutch fingers like on older models, 3rd gen TOB IS full contact, as said here.

If you can drop the trans yourself or with friends...do it, and change everything you can, Otherwise bite the bullet for the money, enjoy a fresh clutch and try to baby it.

 

I just finished a 2000+ mile round trip to Arizona (Fiesta Bowl) and noticed the dreaded TOB chirp while I was crawling along in line to park at State Farm Stadium (my taco has 64K miles). It's rather faint and not really noticeable unless you have the window down and know what you're listening for, so I hope this is just the beginning stage. Any resolution on this issue? Does it mean I'm in for a clutch replacement or have any of y'all run these newer RC62F transmissions for extended periods of time with the chirp present?

 

I couldn't stand the chirp for very long. With 64K you likely don't need a clutch replacement. Did mine at the same time but I had 115K, and clutch was in pretty good shape.

 

Man, this issue seems so random...

Saw 1 example of a dude who put 340,000 miles on his 3rd gen Manual without touching the clutch, TOB etc.
Saw many other examples of the issue popping up as soon as 30,000 miles and or 60,000 miles.

I've heard that the premature wear likely comes from how the clutch/peddle is adjusted, but I feel like there's a lot of conflicting info I've run into also.

I only have 29,000-ish on my manual and so far so good (with an accumulator delete coming soon).

Also curious, and maybe I'll tinker with this some, but has anyone considered trying to grease the TOB via the inspection port?
Or is that dumb?
Obviously oil/grease attracts dust so once you start that rodeo you will likely have to figure out a way to ensure fresh grease etc is being applied and you're not introducing more grit to the bearings themselves.

The other thing I need to try and find is statistics for TOB failures between OEM (idk if there's an update part#) and aftermarket.
While I'm one to generally use OEM replacement parts, I'll consider aftermarket if it's proven reliable.

 

Any luck? I had my clutch replaced and a new bearing. The damn thing is squeeking a year later. I did use after market tho