Spark plugs 2008 Taco 4.0L

If it makes you feel any better I think I'm currently around that same mileage as well. And just to one up you, I have new plugs just collecting dust on the shelf for close to a year now.

 

I have a whole set of brakes just “sitting there”.
Shoes, drums, pads, and rotors. If I don’t get them on there, I think @Dm93 is going to drive up here and put them on for me? I’ve been “talking” about doing them forever.

 

That would be quite a road trip for a brake job lol

 

Feel free to do all the maintenance you want on it.
You don’t have to stop at “just doing the brakes”.

 

I'd go with iridium. It's the center electrode what counts. I use them in all my engines.

NGK or Denso. A little more $, but worth it

 

Thanks

 

I feel a contest being started here.

My new oem headlight lenses have been sitting on my back yard patio since August 2021.

 

Three beers later...

 

I worry more about getting the 100,000 miles plugs out of the aluminum heads than the wear-and-tear of going that long. I suffered stripped threads in an aluminum head removing one of the plugs one time. A helicoil fixed it, but the mechanic opined that it happened because I removed the plug from a warm/hot engine (not a Toyota): aluminum contracts around and cools quicker than the steel plug: effectively locking it in place. It left a strong impression on me. My Dad (no slouch mechanic himself) thought the cause may have been too much anti-seize on the threads the last time I did them. After that I only changed the plugs on an "over-night-cold" engine and never experienced the problem again; and no anti-seize on the plug threads. (and none of that "fingernails-on-the chaulk-board" screeching sounds when you start to twist them out... (Man do I hate that!) I agree the iridium plugs last a long time and they should for the asking price. To me: it's a wash: I install the cheaper copper OEM NGK/Denso plugs (nice plated threads) and change them every 60,000 miles. Two copper sets, vs one iridium. It's a wash on the cost vs mileage life (+ -) YMMV

 

This seems like very sound advice. I hadn't really thought about changing plugs on a hot engine vs cold but it seems like it would make sense. I think every time I've changed plugs it's been on a cold engine and (knock on wood) I've had good luck so far. Admittedly I use an anti seize made by loctite that we put on the ignitor plugs of jet engines at work and it hasn't failed me yet, and those f****** really like to seize up without it. It works wonders.

 

this used to be a sticky in the 2nd gen section... i guess it got moved to Technical Chat
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-spark-plug-change-1-gr-fe.30479/page-112

 

I should clarify that the above happened to me way back and I never used anti-seize on that particular engine again and never had problems again; but I have used it on my engines since with no issues. I only changed the amount I used on the advice of my father: a very small amount on an old tooth-brush which I then use to sparingly brush it onto the threads. The plated threads on the OEM Denso and NGK plugs also help/make a difference. (imo)

 

I have to resurrect this thread. Sorry. My 2008 Tacoma manual say to only use iridium plugs, while many of you say copper. What should I do? Follow the manual or not?

 

2.7L 2TR-FE 4cyl engine uses Iridium plugs

4.0L 1GR-FE V6 engine uses Copper plugs

 

Dm93's post above is correct. If your owners manual says otherwise, post a pic of that page in your manual. Could be it's a misprint but it would be nice to see for ourselves.

 

I used the Denso coppers, which are the OE for the 4.0, and you can get from Toyota.
https://www.densoautoparts.com/part-finder-part-details/?action=dpf_opticat_parts&dpfSearch=vehicle&dpfVehicleBaseVehicle=28875&dpfVehiclePartNum=&dpfVehicleEngine=2096&dpfVehicleEngineName=V6+4.0L+3956cc+241in³&dpfVehicleTrim=20&dpfVehicleTrimName=Base&dpfVehicleYear=2008&dpfVehicleMake=76&dpfVehicleMakeName=Toyota&dpfVehicleModelName=Tacoma&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[A/C+&+Engine+Cooling][0]=2172&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[A/C+&+Engine+Cooling][1]=6788&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[A/C+&+Engine+Cooling][2]=6708&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[A/C+&+Engine+Cooling][3]=6972&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Direct+Ignition+Coils+&+Wires][0]=10214&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Filters][0]=6192&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Filters][1]=5340&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Filters][2]=6832&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Fuel+Pumps][0]=6236&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Relays][0]=3608&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Rotating+Electrical][0]=2412&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Rotating+Electrical][1]=4152&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Sensors][0]=2188&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Sensors][1]=7196&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Sensors][2]=5128&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Sensors][3]=5132&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Sensors][4]=10328&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Sensors][5]=12036&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Sensors][6]=12037&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Spark+Plugs][0]=7212&dpfVehicleAvailablePartTypes[Wiper+Blades][0]=8852&dpfVehiclePartTypes[0]=Spark+Plugs&dpfPartNumber=3381&fitmentAttributeNames[0]=Required+Qty&fitmentAttributeValues[0]=6&mfrLabel=Spark+Plug+-+U-Groove+Conventional

 

this seems like sound advice. I have a 6-cyl and this is what the manual says. Unless I received the wrong manual when I purchased this one.

 

.
Just got a 4.0 2024 4Runner (before the turbos hit the dealers) and this is good plug info.

4.0 ___ 2024 4Runners are as rare as "hens teeth" in the Atlanta area now.

I only see 2 high priced 4Runners in transit in the whole region.

Even Alabama has sold out.

PS ... Not a "turbo guy" here for passenger vehicles ... race cars are ok though.

Don't like the idea of squeezing the guts out of a tiny engine with a 50,000 RPM turbo to go up a hill.

 

I can confirm my 2014 OM specifies Denso Copper plugs for the 4.0L V6.

Part number: Toyota OEM:

$9 90919-01235 Toyota Genuine Spark Plug

90919-01235 Denso: K20HR-U11

+- $7.00 each from a dealer and worth every penny. These had 115,000 miles on them when I replaced them at 132k... and honestly I can't discern any change in performance or gas mileage.

 

Yeah, I had a set of brake shoes sitting on the shelf in the garage for about a year. I did the fronts with new rotors and pads last year, but the rear drums were still in good shape.
I finally bit the bullet and changed the rears two weeks ago. The originals I took off at 167,xxx miles, still looked pretty good and had about 1/8" left on them. And yes, I keep my rears adjusted and use my parking brake religiously.
Now, I need to bleed them just to get some fresh-ish fluid to the cylinders, but need the wife to run the pedal. Maybe tomorrow....