Ticking Behind Dash

I unplugged this connector, which is above the left corner of the cabin filter box, and the commotion stopped. This requires a small straight screwdriver to work under the retaining clip on the far side of the connector.

 

Fished around down in the fan, no debris found.

Now I need to figure out how to remove the blower assembly so I can remove the recirculation actuator switch.

 

Good job OP

 

Here is a video for a 2005 Taco air door actuator. This looks similar to what's behind my 2011 Taco glovebox. The guy is using a Dorman brand replacement, 00:15 into the video. Skip to 1:15 in the video, after he removed the glovebox. Note: at this point the guys goes use a bit of profanity, in case kids are nearby when you view the video.

The guy uses a 5.5mm socket, which works out to 7/32 SAE. I have an ignition wrench set in my Craftsman set, so that will work, if a screwdriver doesn't.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMR1bfLfIrc

 

Here is a pic of the stock unit


The 2 screws were removed using a 7/32 socket (for 1/4" ratchet) on a short extension. I was able to remove using 2 fingers turning the extension. Then pull up off the plastic retainer post.

The plug is 2-pin, while other Toyota models use a 5-pin connector.

The Autozone part description and part number:

2011 Toyota Tacoma A/C Heater Blend Door Actuator

Santech A/C Heater Blend Door Actuator
PN: MT18634

 

Thanks for following up on your original post, providing part #s, and pictures. This will help others in the future.

 

Never knew this existed. Thanks all

I vote to sticky this.

 

I poped my cover off and turned the gear 180 degrees. It only uses part of the gear, several teeth were missing. Still working three years later.

 

I cannot get the cover off without mangling the cover. The 2 small tabs on each side of the "lid" seem to be molded to the larger section containing the motor and gears. I could not pry open the longer tabs on one side, either


The replacement cost me $26.

Here is a good video on troubleshooting.

https://youtu.be/yRRcLVNqgC8

 

I got the replacement put it in, and everything is rosy once again.
No pic, but when I removed the glovebox to mount the new servo, I first saw a white plastic arm. Above that arm is the white plastic nub you match up with the new servo. I aligned the new unit with the black plastic retainer, rotated it upward, and slipped it over the white plastic nub. Two screws later, and I pressed the wiring connector into place, and the job was finished.

 

Quality af post here.

 

2.5 years later, and the popping has returned. Same symptoms as prev: the noise stops when I close the fresh air intake. This time, tge noise is present with the fan off I may buy the servo with a different part number (different manufacturer).

 

See if you can find a Denso version.

 

"Lifetime warranty ", but of course I cannot find that receipt.

 

I went with the cheapest option.. got what I paid for . .

 

I used your suggestion in Jan '23, when my wife's 2001 Camry developed a noise with the heater on. I did find a leaf and a maple tree seed, aka "helicopter", in the blower housing.

For the 2001 Camry, I had to remove the glovebox, and a bracket holding wiring to remove the blower motor. The wiring bracket blocked access to the 3rd screw holding the blower motor in place.

 

When mine started ticking I was able to take the housing apart (yes you have to break it apart essentially) and flip the gear so there were good teeth making contact. Worked great but I bought an OEM replacement (not cheap I think it was about $80-$90) to replace with when it started ticking again. Still have not had to swap it out probably 5-6 years later. Go figure…

 

Another replacement is "in the mail ".

 

Here is the 2nd new actuator, along wuth pics of the inners of the Santech. I rotated 2 of those gears 180°, in case the Dorman
goes south.

Install and cleanup took me 30 minutes.


There are 3 tabs this size. The 4th tab is smaller, on the side with the wiring connector.


Thie metal rod goes through the center of the gear that turns the largest gear (moves the arm that shuts off outside air).



You can see the missing teeth on the large gear that moves the arm which shuts off outside air.

In the last image, you may be able to see the missing teeth on the left side of the gear shaft.