Truck messed up after battery change

I threw in a yellow top optima battery yesterday after my previous battery finally gave out. after rewiring everything and everything looks good the truck fires up then stalls, then fires up and holds an idle but either a little high or a little low, then when I drive around it won't let me go over 3k rpm with check engine light on and trac off. I had a pedal commander in it and I removed it once I made it home. I have a trip to Tahoe in 2 days and I need my truck to make it. I need help quick any help is great, Thanks!

 

You said you "rewired everything." What does that mean? Did you do more than just battery cables? I'd check all fuses and double-check any wiring stuff.

It's also possible you got a bad battery, or it needs a good AGM charge. Have you done the mod to increase the charge voltage for AGM?

 

if it works normal without the pedal commander then just leave it out. to erase the engine light just take the negative cable (black) off for 2 mins and put it back on

 

I have an overly excessive amount of LED's on my truck and to pull my old battery out I had to remove all the wiring. The battery sits cold at 12.5-6 and idling around 13.8. I also tested my alternator and its good still. Also the removing of the pedal commander didn't do anything.

 

Start with cleaning the Throttle Body and Mass Airflow Sensor.

 

Ive been reading into it and some people have problems when changing the battery it resets the ECU and they have the same problems as me but after following the steps they took to fix it mine didn't really get fixed. Some people have been saying to just drive it around in limp mode and eventually it'll fix itself and relearn itself.

 

With such a short timeframe and needing a reliable vehicle, I’d bring it to a shop and let them diagnose. Otherwise, better have a backup vehicle, maybe a rental or something for your trip

 

Hondas relearn the idle ...by idling for about 15min,not driving..i dont think it should be in limp mode unless theres a code.

 

LOL, well, at least you are honest with yourself. Have you tried disconnecting the LED wiring? Your voltages look OK, although maybe a little low at cold. Might want to put it on an AGM charger and get it topped off to 12.8. It will need about 14.6V to get it topped off. I'd disconnect the battery and let the ECU reset while you top it off, then try driving it a bit to let it relearn.

 

I’ve noticed some Toyotas run shitty for about 20 miles after a battery disconnect. But, if your engine light is in, you have a different issue. Read the code. Voltage readings look normal. Your symptoms resemble a bad ignition coil.

 

Toyota's won't begin idle learn until coolant temp reaches 174F, the CEL and Trac Off light suggests there is an issue present though.
I'd clean the throttle body and MAF sensor first and see if that solves it.

 

I don’t think a battery is going to throw a truck into limp mode. If this was a battery specific issue like dash lights going out or no crank that’s one thing, but if your engine cranks up and the alternator is putting out juice and you don’t have a battery light on the dash, something else is going on.

The engine will nearly always stall on the first crank after removing the battery. The second crank will be normal.

Get some codes pulled if there are any.

 

Agree with above, read the codes first. Im betting you accidentally disconnected or bumped something / some sensor while working on the LED wiring

 

+1

 

I wouldn’t try fixing anything until you pull the codes.

 

You may have inadvertently shorted a wire while connecting / disconnecting your LED wiring. If the wiring is not run through relays and fused, a short could have catastrophic effects on other on board electronics without showing a code (ECU). Have a dealer hook it up to Tech Stream.

 

Run down to the nearby auto parts store and ask them to scan the truck for codes.
Then report back to us the codes found.
Until then, it’s all guesses.

 

Obviously agree on code reader. But if I can generalize, I always thought a 3k limit usually means a faulty MAF/TPS (or reading of it, by the ecu).

 

Buddys Tacoma went into limp mode after about 6 months of running PC.

 

I have been running yellow tops for over 5 years never had a problem swapping new battery out. Did you change any other part out recently?