Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

I don’t think we ever discussed specific sizes and stuff, just whether to diy or not. I’m using discount hydraulic hoses dot com. Lots of options on there. I’ll try the PSC website and maybe that’ll be easier to sort through first. Can’t find any hard facts on hose diameter to match the AN sizes. Can’t be this difficult. I guess the -10 would need to be a suction line not high pressure, right?

edit: PSC website spelled it right the fuck out for me. That other website is way too complicated unless you’re super familiar with all the differences. I was correct on AN sizes at least.

 

Yep that's pretty typical, -10 feed, -6 pressure. I did read alot about matching manufactures hose with their fittings. Aka weatherhead field serviceable fittings with weatherhead hydro hose. Weatherhead and Eaton are 2 very good names, should look around 5-6k psi working pressure. Full hydro may be higher? Idk, only hydro assist here.

 

I read the same and got further confused trying to find and match everything up. Prices weren’t any better on other sites, plus PSC had everything much more easily laid out and matched. Paid about $525 for all the hose and fittings. Little more than I had originally figured, but so be it.

 

What’s ideal for the rear? I’m thinking 14 b.
I’m seeing 70s, 60s for good prices.

Front will be a D60. 05 for 3 link is the way right? I’m sure my guy will know what he needs. But I would like to help him shop around in case I find a good deal

 

And let’s talk lockers…. Im thinking selectable up front. Tru trac in the rear. This will not be a trailer queen btw

 

I have a spartan out back and an Aussie upfront and drive it to and from the trail, no complaints!

 

This is the type of wrap that I use on any hydraulic lines that see any abuse. I just got the wrap from the hydraulic shop when they made the hoses, I'm sure you can find it cheaper somewhere else. I just found a picture that shows it. I'm an equipment operator, so I deal with this stuff quite a bit. I'm really lucky because we have a great hydraulic shop next door to our shop. They are always saving us for any hydraulic lines or fittings that we need. https://images.app.goo.gl/gq6HSeDmbmfnax5C8

 

You lost me at Trutrac LSD. On a solid axle swapped truck? Might as well as stayed IFS

 

Selectable lockers for me. I like my air lockers.

 

Thanks man! Thats what I wanted to hear!

LOL, I'm learning! so stay away from that garbage, Copy that!

Sucks when they leak or need to rebuild. but I do like ARB, just don't think I will be using them.

 

@Fernando auto lockers get a bad rap on the street, but they are weird for the first few days you drive on them then you get used to it. You do need to keep your tires inflated to roughly the same PSI (my spartan gets pissy when it's more than 1psi off) and very rarely it will let off a big bang. Pulling into parking spots they chatter and will bronco a bit, but as a friend put it "it lets the mall crawlers know that a real wheeler has arrived" I have driven in snow on them in 2wd with no scaryness and they handle the rain like it was open. The added bonus is they either work or they don't and you can't forget to turn them on.

TLDR: people who hate on autolockers 9/10times have never actually used them.

And no one bring up ultra 4 racers or pro rockcrawlers using ARBs without issue, apples to ribeye steak comparison.

 

Chicago Electric lockers front and rear for best street drivability.

 

For me, I got the front and rear axles from the same truck, a 2004 SuperDuty. My first choice would've been a 14-bolt, but ultimately stayed with the Sterling 10.5 for a few reasons:

1. It all came from the same truck, so picking up the axles was just one stop/trip. Buying parts like ring/pinion rebuild kits are easier if it's all from the same platform.
2. Front and rear bolt patterns match.
3. The OEM e-locker for the Sterling 10.5 is CHEAP, I bought a used one shipped to my door for $325.
4. A Sterling 10.5 has better ground clearance than a 14-bolt (of course you could throw a shave kit at both but that takes time/work).

 

This. auto lockers shouldn't be ruled out. If anything they are more pronounced in manuals, however auto with a longer wheelbase like a tacoma vs short wheelbase its very doable. Can tell its there but not in an unsafe manner. Back in IFS days, I shredded spiders gears, installed an aussie in the front and didnt have any issues driving on highway snowpacked roads locked in 4high.

 

I did 05+ sd60/Sterling. Only complaint I have is that a spool for the Sterling cost $500 which is nuts. It’s just not as popular as the 14 bolt stuff I guess. I welded it up instead which is no biggie. Detroit for the front

If I wasn’t going to run 40+ tires and beat the shit out of it, I’d look for something a lot lighter.

 

Auto lockers only here. I’ve ran 6 Detroit lockers overall in 2 different trucks and I’ll be going the same route in my 99-04 super duty’s. No issues out of any of them, even the two of them that I bought used. I like knowing that they will work every time I need them too. Their street manners do not bother me one bit. Just gotta be a little more careful making turns in the rain and stay outta the gas as much.

 

Heard of chicago! I'm making a list as we go hear so I'll look into these. Thanks man!

I really appreciate the info gents. I do think I'm going to stay away from the selectable lockers, but not 100% on that just yet. As for the rear, I'm not opposed to the 10.5. If I go 14B, I can always get the conversion kit, so the lug pattern matches.

So ARB is a ribeye huh? well shit, I love me some bleeding Ribeye man!! lol





Now on the D60, Isn't 05 what is most sought out?

 

2005 and newer

 

You lurking!! Thanks baby d*ck. Dont be a stranger brother

 

Another plus for the Sterling is that all the rock bouncers think they want to build one, decide to go 14 bolt and sell all their new stuff for less than market. I probably saved $300 buying new gears/install kit yada yada on marketplace that way.