3rd Gen HID vs LED vs Halogen H11 projector headlights

What would be an intriguing service is replacing the OEM 6000+ K diodes with equivalent 4000 K diodes, and maybe adding some small heating elements while the headlights are open...

 

Problem here is that currently no-manufactures produce the ultra-high performance automotive grade headlight emitters in the 4000k color temp. This is why the DD Max and Morimoto HXB are only available in 6000k.

 

I am making headlight tab repair and reinforcement kits. I should have them for sale soon.

I do not have a set of LED lights to try them against yet though.

 

A few things to understand.

Halogen projectors are different from hid projectors. It is far more than reflector vs projector.

Also, projectors have an even spread of light above the cutoff. Regardless of how you aim them you are still sending the same light into oncoming traffic (obviously expecting the cutoff itself is below eye level). Aiming them down further does not reduce the light oncoming traffic sees.

 

Thanks for the replies. I think I'm worry about future issues (10 years from now when the 3G is long out of production) as far as sourcing new assemblies. I think I'm burned out from the C5 work where nothing is available anymore. It was more a curiosity than anything.

My goal is to never need a replacement set, but we will see what the future holds.

 

I’ve bought 3 new OEM headlights for my 2002 Tundra at sub $200 each. I suspect these led headlights will be available for 20+ years and likely cost less by then.

 

Among some brands, maybe. Legally manufactures are required to provide OEM parts for 10 years after manufacture. But Toyota does an exceptional job of long term parts availability, I can still buy new made in the USA OEM headlights for my 2003 Tacoma 20 years after production directly from Toyota.

 

Headlights in particular seem to be super well supported by Toyota.

Oddly enough, floor mats and bed mats are some of the hardest parts to get. Toyota totally DGAF’d those. Which is truly strange considering how easy the floor mat sale is for new vehicles. Especially all weather mats on a truck. And bed mats, there are less than two dozen Toyota pickup beds ever made. It would be so straightforward to make the full set of OEM bed mats.

 

thanks @crashnburn80, I know this is a tired old song and one you uncovered years ago, but I finally switched from my DD LED's, even though I read your data,,,, I just never found the need to switch up until now. I put the H9s in yesterday and they are MUCH better! I may still nut-up and get OE LED's down the road,, but I am happy with the H9's performance and the fact it is a quality OE type replacement. ( I always wondered when those little fans on the LED's would poop out).

 

I drove in snow then rain this am in my ‘05 w OEM halogen, no harness (sitting in a box) headlights. They are aimed way short because I adjusted after some serious trouble with the front coilovers left me nose high by 1-2” and I was blinding my neighbors. They work just fine really but after Harness and aiming I’m sure I’ll be super stoked.

This is my lowest truck, nearly stock height, and haven’t connected power for the auto dim mirror yet, so I was quite annoyed by the plethora of light blasting from other drivers on the freeway going my way. Particularly terrible was auto high beams bathing me for a fairly long time while I passed in a snow slush left lane and they drove slowly in the clear middle lane in some sorta dark suv.

I do love my OEM LED’s on the 2016 but I’m growing increasingly anxious about their effect on other drivers even though they are aimed way down now (after new leafs gave me an extra inch or two in the back). I’ve started turning off my headlights for oncoming walkers (we have a crew of ladies in the hood who do their morning thing with headlamps on)

I mean, I love 5000-6000k as a driver for my own headlights but I hate being on the receiving end. And I think it’s not all about aiming, maybe some poor optics but I bet most of the vehicles I was annoyed by are pure stock setup.

Makes me want to move away from civilization really.

It has to be downright terrible in a low passenger vehicle without tinted rear glass these days.

 

As a Civic driver with stock suspension, I have some perspective. Those with factory LEDs can still be a bit blinding. And that's with tinted windows AND aftermarket convex mirrors. One time, I had a new Escalade behind me at a stop light. For the love of all that is holy, even with the rear view dimmed, those lights were blinding.

And that doesn't include housings with improper bulbs...

 

They aren't bad on even ground, but where in the world is there even ground. Roads always have rises and dips.

 

I worry about my H9s to be honest, there are many instances where the aim up (hill, acceleration, etc) and it makes me feel like a jerk.

I find most new cars to be bright without being blinding. From a distance its almost like PNPs but the always have a more distinct cutoff and they don't increase in intensity near as much as you get closer.
That said, the Hundayi (sp?) big SUV thing had the WORST lights. I swear every one is aimed pointing upward from the factory.

 

Around here every idiot from a Honda to Ford f350 are running el cheapo LED headlight bulbs that are practically available at every corner grocery store. It's to the point that I don't even want to drive at night anymore

 

Nice make some extended ones for those that want to “plastic weld” for non salvageable tabs that break lol

Im gonna have to resort to ordering a cheap ass faux headlight, dremel out the piece I need and heat staple/plastic weld it.

 

Where are yours broken? I would be interested in seeing the common breakage points for these lights.

 

I’ll snap a photo tomorrow when I get off shift for ya. Its the top short tab that almost looks 90 degrees.

 

@Firn
This tab, maybe with a bit of extra plastic incase any of us need to extend or shave a bit off…

 

Got you covered!

You should be able to glue all the original pieces to the reinforcement tab and fully support that. If the pieces are missing it should work as well, provided there is enough at the base to bond to. The only concern I have right now is the missing thickness of the OEM tab, if the parts are missing, a simple washer would make up the space but I am considering printing some spacers as well

What I am putting together would be four pieces, both upper tabs for both headlights. I am looking at doing the side tab and including that since I have seen a few of those broken as well.

This is only for OEM HALOGEN lights however and possibly Morimotos, the OEM LEDs are different and these won't fit.

 

Gotcha, the ones I sent are OEM LED’s
I might just have to find a cheap broken one and dremel that piece out. Use my Amazon plastic “welder” kit and Macgyver something.