Let's see your FJ case swap

yeah cut that flush with the underside and then put a zip lock bag or something around it to the connector.

 

That is hugely helpful…thank you. I can see the benefits of the FJ swap, but since I’m unknown on the future of the truck and how it’ll be wheeled, it’s a linear move for me since they both have the same reduction.

 

Was thinking that too. I think I’ll be able to figure out some sort of plastic cover or something and tuck it up somewhere

 

This isn’t the right thread for my next magic trick, but not sure where else to find you @6 gearT444E

Do you know the best/easiest way to disable all airbags in a 2009 taco? Will it cause any nanny systems to not let me drive? Haha

 

sorry I'm just jumping in hear so i might get the context of the reason why disabeling air bags , wrong but.....
bad idea. when you see a flop or roll over on the trail that is unexpected you'll get why I say bad idea air bags can keep you from breaking your head amungst other things... just saying ...

 

Definitely a bad idea for most. Mine is trailered and will eventually be fully caged. That eventually will probably be sooner than expected so trying to plan ahead.

also it’s going to be on tons/42’s/full hydro so no street driving haha

 

I'm parroting information without actually knowing for sure but everyone always says that any fault in the SRS system will disable the whole system and cause them not to fire. Easiest way to do that is unplug one of the SRS sensors under one of the front seats.

 

I thought about unplugging anything yellow I see. Especially that box under the cup holders in the center…

 

the squib valves are energized to actuate so removing ABS ECU power would do just fine. Connector A by the center console, in front of the shifter area, namely pins 17, 21, and 23. I’m sure you’ll get some lights on the dash but shouldn’t cause any issues for drivability as far as engine ECM is concerned.

 

Any reason I can’t unplug the entire connector A just to be extra sure?

 

you definitely can unplug the whole thing. I’d suggest disconnecting the battery for a few minutes before unplugging it.

 

Alright awesome. That’d probably make me feel better haha

here’s another riddle since you’re on a roll . When I threw evap codes (fuel cell without canister before SAS) it seems like I lost traction control or some other nanny system. I’m not worried about having atrac or anything of course (no speed sensors now or reason to have it) I am curious if I’ll lose the electronic brake boost though. I’m hoping that will help push the bigger f250 brakes. I’m not sure how the brake boost works or if it only works for the downhill assist and atrac crap only…not sure if it needs ABS to function either…

 

you won’t, I’ve had my ABS light on for a long while some time ago and have since repaired one of the ABS wires. The electric booster, pump/accumulator setup will continue to function but traction control, ABS, TRAC/ATRAC will not function.

 

as long as the pump gets power and the accumulator still works, then everything will work. ABS wont but the brake booster will still stop you.

on my GX, i had a broken wire and everything brakes wise worked minus the ABS. My pump and accumulator went out and nothing worked till those got fixed

 

that’s good to know it’ll still work. I don’t know how much the booster will make a difference, but hopefully I’ll find out soon. Getting fabricator fatigue or whatever you wanna call it with all the small details . Need this thing to start rolling around asap!

 

This is a theoretical question about a stock unmodified J shift transfer case and twin sticks. If you mount twin sticks on top of an unmodified transfer case, will you be able to shift from 2H to 4H with the right stick, and once in 4H, then use the left stick to shift from 4H to N to 4L? And if you are in 2H, the left stick couldn't be shifted? Effectively replicating the J shift sequence, but with twin sticks.

I realize it would just be easier to stay with the standard J shifter, but curious on how all the parts engage each other.

 

The way I understand it is that one stick shifts from 2wd to 4wd, and the other shifts from high range to low range. The only modification is minor grinding on the shift rail if I'm understanding the process right. I haven't done it yet but will be as soon as my triple shifters show up. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Thank you. But I was curious if you don't grind anything and leave the tcase untouched, will the twin sticks only allow 4L if you are in 4H first. Ie won't allow 2L. A theoretical question.

 

Then what's the point of doing a twin stick? Just to make shifting as awkward as possible? I'm not sure why you would want to go through all the trouble to twin stick and not gain 2L? In my opinion that's the whole reason for twin sticks. Not trying to be rude just trying to see if there is anything I'm missing.

 

If you want to do that I believe it would work. But yes with the interlock pill installed you can only access the low rail in 4wd hi


You could do something like this instead and use stock shifter taking up less space
https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/rwd-lo-without-a-twin-stick-sure.87613/