Closed (for now): Group Buy: IEDLS Polyurethane Carrier Bearing

At least you got something out of it.

 

So does it mount like this for DCSB?
Original post says both yes and no

a bit confused I just want to make sure I get it installed properly and don’t mess anything up
If anyone knows please post!



if yes, I guess this means I no longer have a use for my OME spacers

a driveshaft shop I talked to about it told me be careful on the half section (front maybe?) to not put it at too much of an angle so that it applies stress to the bearing, and to possibly not have too much lift

haven’t had time to drop my Icon RXT pack from Option3 to Option2 but it’s definitely planned.
Hopefully that doesn’t wear the thing out.
Because in option 3 with an empty bed (no shell) the rear definitely sits pretty high

 

My understanding is its easy with LB but not so much with SB you need to get crafty with the mounts. I ended up just replacing with a regular one.

 

so far I have a flat metal bracket thick enough to mount like in above pic

just not sure if that’s the correct way or if it has to be flipped upside down with the curvy side on top, and large spacers for the bolts

 

It just depends on your application. On my truck (DCSB with ~2in of lift), mounting like pictured resulted in drive line vibes at 60+mph, so I had to flip and use spacers to move the driveshaft centerline up for more proper drive line angles

 

From my previous mistakes, when you put the new cb on, you have to seat it (I used a deep socket) all the way to the rear flange. Then when you tighten up the bolt, back it off a 1/2 turn and ping the lip into place. just my experience and .2c I could be a little off info wise when torqing the retain bolt tho...

 

anyone know what the part number was from Napa?? The guy with the Mercedes friend?? You stated a part # from Napa, but I forgot which page, and #....

 

Went back in. Measured the stock bolts, m10x1.25. I forget the length and will try to post specifics later. DCSB

front half hung way down, then tilted up at the bearing to the diff. Not good. Reduced ground clearance and can potentially stress the bearing at an angle causing premature wear.
Vibrations seem to have decreased, and more smooth now.

I tried 2 longer bolt sizes. 6pt 17mm head, m10x1.25x100mm, and 120mm. The 100mm was too short. 120 seems a tiny bit too long but threads sticking through beyond the nutsert is fine. I can always cut them down.
Unfortunately they didn’t have middle ground sizes like 110, 115, etc

I may need to figure out a good rap and die set to buy. The bolt is threaded on the end, but the shaft is solid. I could use a tap/die to give it more thread to resolve that.
Because it threads all the way in and is uncomfortably close to the solid shaft trying to go in the hole possibly damaging it.

said fuck it and tightened it anyway. Orange loctite so I don’t have to overtighten it

Used sockets to measure spacer length, craftsman lowes 1/2” drive. Then bought some pre cut DOM tube that fit snug.

basically I tried to mimic how it was before and eyeballed it. I took the old rubber carrier bearing, my OME spacer blocks they say to use when lifted, and found that when holding it the top of the carrier hole is about flush level to the mating/mounting surface of the truck.
so I pretty much tried to mimic that when I was measuring with a ruler etc trying to figure out how to space out the above pic.

so far nothing has caught on fire
I hear I’m supposed to use an angle finder phone app, put my phone to the propshaft, and check the angles. Haven’t done that yet; simply bolted in the above parts (DOM sleeves and longer bolts) as centered as I could then tightened by hand feel

part came with the flat bracket. I forgot to paint the curved holder bracket which is now starting to rust…
Yes the tubes look a bit thin from the outside but it’s DOM so it should be strong

 

@ducati

 

Looks like it's time to replace mine again. I had this in since 2017 and all was good until yesterday when I found this after performing maintenance. I have noticed some vibrations upon taking off from a stop again so not surprised to find this.
Wondering if I should get this same IEDLS one or someones else's.
Thoughts?

 

Update: the carrier bearing shows no visible signs of wear after 6 years ….. in storage. I finally got around to installing this and replacing all three rear driveshaft u-joints this last weekend, and it was way overdue.

 

Just installed this from @mitchmadeinc on IG. Was made for the 2wd (with a slip yoke added) but no reason it won’t work on 4wd.
https://instagram.com/mitchmadeinc?igshid=Zjc2ZTc4Nzk=

 

Saw you post that and was wondering if it would.

 

That should ABSOLUTELY NOT be used on a 2wd as it would not allow the driveshaft to move forward and back through the CB (the driveshaft on the 2wd does not have a slip joint behind the cb rather a slip yoke at the transmission)

 

If you would have read the IG post you would have seen that it’s for 2wd peeps that added a slip yoke for use with LT setups. I edited my post to be more clear though.

 

Read majority of this thread to aid my application. Ordered the ~$30 Spicer XC version of this poly bearing.

Seemed like for those with DC/AC Tacos the spacer length used for the inverted bearing was all over the place from near 1”-2.5” or so. Which seems to fit a wide variety of methods in setting up drive shaft angles for the leaf spring setups.

My problem is I have a 3 link and Ford 9 which was already angled up at the rear 1/2 of the drive shaft by the shop that built the truck, I assume so it doesn’t bind at droop. This is one proposed method for 2 piece drive shafts to keep the rear U joint happy albeit at expense of some vibes. Either way with the new drive shaft I had to preserve this geometry, so my initial attempt at 2.3”-2.5” spacers was a total bust. Rear shaft angles were all sorts of fucked up with pinion angled higher than the rear shaft which was no bueno. Truck felt like it was about to detonate at 60mph+. Funny enough it was probably the smoothest I’ve felt at 1-50 mph.

I picked up some 1.75” spacers at HD as a last resort to trial out and they ended up bringing the rear shaft to 1* higher angle than pinion. Truck is now driveable at highway speed.

I’ll be fine tuning potentially using a shorter spacer like some have in this thread to bring the rear shaft angle maybe another 1* higher so that under acceleration the pinion doesn’t exceed rear shaft angle. All in the name of not going back to the crappy stock style carrier bearing.

 

Do you have a link to where you bought it for $30?

Ugh, I have to do this again. I cheaped out & got a spicer OEM style last time. Going with Ford style this time. Either Spicer or IEDLS. Did we establish the Spicer rubber version is fully sealed? I’ve seen pics of one maybe 20 pages back that was clearly not sealed.

 

The part number is

$42 2115901X Spicer 211590-1X Center Bearing

2115901X. I bought it on rockauto for $33 but it’s not showing in stock anymore and I recall there weren’t a lot of other places with them in stock. I’m wondering if the new part number is this cheaper 25-2115901X though the rock auto specs are ever so slightly different as far as the bracket, but bearing ID is same.

The bearing is sealed and for some reason during assembly grease is slathered on top to which it seems spicer had no earthly clue why and couldn’t confirm it was sealed by what others posted. Though other members also confirmed it is in fact sealed.

 

I use that one also. I needed a new one and it seemed like it is not a normal stock Spicer item anymore and somehow is special order. Not sure if that is entirely true but what I was told by a shop that does driveshaft work for me. They pop up in stock often but at limited supply.

 

Does anyone with either the spicer or IEDLS ranger bearing get a faint whirring noise from the driveshaft?

In another thread a member noted a slight overlap of the bearing inner race and splines on the OEM shaft since the ranger race is slightly wider. I’m wondering if the noise is a result of that. Everything is otherwise smooth.