Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

The only issue ive had with my full hydro is wearing out the 3/4 heims. I need to step up to some 7/8. The truck drives amazing and has been very predictable since i dialed in bumpsteer. It could use a bit more ackerman, but thatll come when i go LT.

 

My failure point is the OE rack. The slide rack is solid. Absolutely no issues there after 2 years. Basically the OE rack running without lubrication on the pinion side is chewing things up. Which is creating play back to the wheel. So I am going to try greasing it to see if that works.

 

Thanks for explaining. Or possibly can we run something like a delrin bushing instead of bronze that's meant to slide, such as a ptfe coating. I know that's limited as well but may last longer than bronze (maybe). Something less abrasive. I'm not sure that's possible. But I see what you're saying. Looking to see if you have positive results. Thanks for sharing.

 

A delrin slider would probably work very well. Big problem is the bronze slider only has about .010 of sacrificial surface before its steel on steel. Once steel on steel happens it’s going to be downhill fast.

Part of me believes this is also the main failure point in a stock configuration. That thin piece of bronze can only get hammered so many times before it’s deformed and allowing excessive back lash under load. IE, skipping teeth. I think there’s potential in either configuration to have a new slider designed. And it wouldn’t be something expensive to do.

 

When does the problem become the top of the fender flares vs the front or back section? 33's fit fine for me now and have a aftermarket front bumper so at an inch forward 35s (assuming same width) shouldn't hit the cab mount or back flares.

 

35’s are going to require some tubbing no matter what you do. You will be fine at the firewall at 1” forward. But you will hit your inner fenders at bump.

 

If you are on 33's and you don't want to do a bunch of trimming stay with the 33's. 35's will require a bunch of additional work beyond just trimming. Think brakes, gears, additional stress on steering, axles, wheel bearings etc.

 

I agree with some of this. Crossing into true 35’s opens a can of worms. And will require additional things to support them. Though not nearly what it takes for 37’s. So it is a decent happy medium if you don’t want to cut your entire truck apart.

 

That's where I'm leaning and truck is already regeared. May just need to figure out a diy solution for fender liners as that's what I am most apprehensive about having to get rid of.

 

there is a guy here on TW that makes kits for fender liners, try searching “ fendex “

edit - here it is https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fend-x-wheel-liners.557515/

 

Just like anything else. Every step up in tire size the list of additional things required to do it right is probably a factor of 5. For my self my 34's is what I have decided to be my limit. If I want something bigger it will be on a completely different vehicle.

 

Fender liners? What're those?
I try to stay in the rocks, not the soup, so I don't have much issue running without.

 

The backside of my fiberglass. Duh!

 

I just made mine out of an old skid plate off of a side by side.

 

Learning as I go.. I have JDFAB’s +2.25 LT kit w/superbumps. Out of curiosity Took my shock off and at full bump on a 285/75/17 I rub just the front of the inner fender when turned. Tire seems to clear everywhere else.

Tried on a friends 35x10.5. Keep in mind it’s a skinny, and that’s where the fun happened.. looking to possibly jump up to 35’s and not have clearance issues so may be going with the pivot kit and inner fenders

 

Did you check clearance with the steeling locked both ways? Did you keep your bump stop in place or metal to metal?

 

On the 285/75’s turned until inner fender hit. On the 35x10.5’s. Didn’t even bother. Lol. This was with bump stop in place.

 

you’ll have more clearance issues as you turn the wheel. Being a skinny will help but it’s hard to say how much you’ll have clearance.

The bump stop is also deceiving. You can’t replicate the amount of force generated on a hard hit in a static environment so that wheel will probably bump a little higher than you’ve got pictured when driving.

 

Yea that’s why I didn’t even bother turning the 35. Could already see what was going to happen. Don’t prefer a 35x10.50 but was available and same exact wheel so didn’t have to worry about specs. Just tried it out for fun.

And yes aware about the bump. A while back was out at Fish Creek on hard impact I did rub inner fender on 285/75’s.

This was just out of curiosity. Without doing too much work to test. Clearly seen I’d run into issues.

 

Easiest enough just to hose out that pocket next to the door jamb? I imagine even if you did have a makeshift liner that would still be getting filled up with crap