2003 Auto to Manual swap

Todays progress

• Removed sway bar end links from control arms.
• Purchased Harbor Freight 20-ton press to press out control arm bushing
• Removed crossover pipe
• Removed pass. side manifold
• Removed 5/6 bolts on driver manifold

Issues

• When removing manifold bolts, sometimes the entire stud came out and other times just the nut came off the stud. Is that going to be a problem with the headers?
• I had to remove the alternator to get to one of the manifold bolts and in doing so the adjustment bolt broke. I could not separate the alternator from the lower bracket so I took the whole thing out.

 

Good progress! Sounds like an opportunity to upgrade your alternator

Yeah sometimes the exhaust studs come out if the nut is frozen on, it’s not a big deal but with the rust issues you’re dealing with it would probably be worthwhile to replace them all. You can get an exhaust stud kit with everything you need and they’re usually not too expensive.

 

How are your motor mounts? I ask because I replaced mine today while the trans and starter are out of the way, but it would have been way way easier if the exhaust manifolds had been off too. Since you’re already there it would be an easy maintenance item if needed.

 

is there an alternator upgrade I should consider?

Also, how do I get the studs out the didn’t come out? Do I use the two-nut method? When I bought the headers from the guy I got the transmission from, he also gave me a brand new set of stainless install hardware and gaskets. I forgot about that the other day.

lastly, can an exhaust shop weld up a replacement flange on my crossover now, or can that only be done once it’s installed in the truck?

 

Is this something I should do? I noticed that the hose clamps on the coolant hoses going into the block (I think that’s what they are) are completely rusted. Figured it might be a good idea to replace while I’m in there. Is there a hose upgrade kit as well?

 

I just found a thread that talked about using a Suzuki Vitara 105 amp alternator as a bolt in upgrade. As well as the ‘big 3’. I might have to do this.

 

The 105A alt from a Suzuki Grand Vitara is a good upgrade, almost completely bolt in. There are several threads about it.

Yeah either the two nut method to get the studs out, or if they still have the E-torx head on them you can get the correct size socket to take them out.

You could have a flange welded on now, but you’d have to get it in the perfect place to line up with the rest of the exhaust, or more likely you’d have to make a mating piece (intermediate pipe) to get it to all go together.

 

Not sure about a hose upgrade kit per se, but yeah I’d be tempted to replace those lines (probably the oil cooler hoses) with OEM.
If you don’t really wheel your truck or it doesn’t have that many miles on it, the motor mounts might not be necessary. They can and do tear or delaminate eventually, so may be worth looking into.

Definitely worthy upgrades to the electrical system.

 

These are the e-torx studs. I see that YotaShop sells the E8 socket to remove these.

 

It’s nothing special, your local hardware store might have it, I bought a set of them at harbor freight.

 

Oh. Ok. I’ll check tomorrow

 

So I’ve learned that this swap is beyond my comfort level.

Carry on…

 

It sounds better the second way

 

Didn’t do much today other than remove both manifolds. There are still 3 studs on each side. I was going to buy some KROIL to see if that helps with getting them out I did a semi-test fit on the driver side. That header has the crossover bolted to it, and I was able to sort of finagle it in even with the studs in place. Should I replace the gasket between the header flange and the crossover? These are used pieces and am not suite how old the gaskets might be.

 

This photo shows the flange to pipe where I thought I should change the gasket. Dumb question, but where would I find such a gasket?

 

Yeah definitely want all new gaskets for the exhaust, those are not reusable. You can get them at summit racing, rock auto, or usually your local Napa. You may need the flat gasket kind to go between the faces of the flanges (that goes around the bolts), or the donut kind if the flanges have a recess around the pipe.

 

Ok. I’ll disassemble the pipes from the headers to see what kind of gaskets are in there. I have a new set of gaskets from JBA but those are just from the header flange to the head.

 

Today I replaced my stock steering rack bushings with ones from Energy Suspension. I followed the excellent instructions from over on AdventureTaco.
https://adventuretaco.com/guide/step-by-step-steering-rack-bushing-replacement-on-a-1st-gen-tacoma-or-3rd-gen-4runner/