Kimbo Camper BS and Mods

I'm building out my kitchen,electrical and modified living space like lots of folks have . One issue that keeps pissing me off is a-lot the screws have loctite/threadlocker on them. This makes pulling the panels off a PITA (needed for mounting the solar panels and tucking all the electrical behind the panels). Normally I'd put some heat on the screw but with fabric covered foam I'm not gonna risk melting it.

Fun project and since Kimbo's are super solid there's huge potential for modifications.

 

Dude tell me about it...when i got my kimbo delivered, they confessed to me that they had put the incorrect loctite on some of those screws (i.e. the permanent bond instead of the medium hold bond, which is supposed to be put on all the rivbolts that go through the paneling). I had to drill out the bolts from the outside, because the amount of force required to break that bond is greater than the holding force of the sealant used. What ends up happening is that you shear the sealant, and now you have a leak behind the insulation that water can get into...and a free spinning useless bolt. You can't heat it off cuz of the insulation, as you already alluded to.

I ended up purchasing my own rivet gun and replacing multiple bolts so that I could install my own baskets. Cons of this are the price (of the rivet gun) and annoyance of having to fix their problem. Pros are that I now have a rivet gun and can do anything I want to the kimbo! Kimbo also sent me a tube of sealant and all the rivet hardware to do the replacement. They also sent me a youtube video of how to install the rivets. I would just reach out to them and explain the issue. Kind of unfortunate that they haven't addressed this problem yet.

 

WoW - that's not ideal but glad you were able to put a positive spin on it. I have an earlier version and the opposite issue, those little suckers are always falling out - but I know the solution...I need to get the fabric re-attached next though and will probably go ahead and loctite (blue/purple) them in when I do.

 

Yep same here with the opposite issue. Though my ADD is satiated when doing something inside and tightening all the screws at the same time. Its great you learned how to rivet, it's on my list to learn. Fortunately, I've become comfortable to just bolting and sealing to the Kimbo shell.

 

My GF has had success with the NEMO. I've yet to test it. It is nice to have it as a dual purpose, shower and reservoir though.

https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/camping-and-hiking/camping-shower/nemo-helio-pressure-shower

 

We just unloaded ours and will be around. Send me a message about when would be convenient.

 

Still need to find the right spray glue to do this. It funny though that it only droops when the humidity rises, windows closed at night. Then goes back in place when humidity drops again.

Would be great to find some alternative colors or material to customize it further.

 

Good place to start: https://www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com/en/brands/POP/POP Rivet Selection Factors

Exactly - was wondering if they may have been using an "eco-friendly" glue that was water soluble...

 

After much deliberation, re: Kimbo I have come to the conclusion that it’s over weight substantially for a Tacoma TRD Off RD. Payload is the issue. That sticker on the door says 940lbs ; Axle weight is different.

Weare going with the Moonlander from Radica. I talked with the owner Lucus himself about all the details and he has responded very quickly to all my inquiries. A little bummed as to Kimbos responses… still rooting for them but Tacomas don’t have the payload for them.

I LL keep ya all posted as to how things are going. One question I have is if anybody knows of a smaller heater than the Dickerson Propane vented rig? Wanting some safe heat in the Moonlander without too much overkill.

 

Looks like a solid option for you. You're correct, GVWR is different from GAWR. Tacomas come with tires that are matched with their GVWR, but with higher load rated tires we are increasing our payload in a way. I believe our GAWR is close to 5000lbs and I don't think anyone recommends getting close to that number. But knowing what you're hauling and driving safely with that understanding has allowed us to continue to make trips with a Tacoma and Kimbo setup since the first Kimbo prototypes that were designed around the owner's Tacoma.

You'll definitely be able to take the Moonlander to more places than a Kimbo for sure. There are just so many successful Tacoma/Kimbo setups running since the company started that it makes it a tested and safe option too, just probably not in the same terrain you are looking to explore and use the Moonlander.

There is not much literature on this topic but I'd imagine if you search for any side you'll find evidence to support it. The best move is just to go with what you're comfortable with and makes sense for your application.

Looking forward to how it works out for you. The Moonlander looks well made. Other than diesel heaters and propane options, most everything will be overkill in that small of a space. With my diesel heater on low, I'm still cracking the windows to let out the heat.

 

Do you have your stove set up so that it draws fresh air from the outside?

 

Yep. With the wood stove you have to pull air in from the outside. Since the camper is sealed so well, sucking air out will pull smoke out of the stove.

 

Appreciate your response. And love hearing about all the adventures. I figure if we go with a Dickerson we can put out a canopy 8x8 with walls in bad weather and keep it heated some. We will try a buddy heater first as we have one and Dickerson pricy option for the space.

Glad the Kimbo is working for you. I’m looking to get out there for a few days and then stay closer to civilization.

 

The 'Kimbo Kanopy'...LOL - looks like a nice minimalist option. Def need to add some insulation, heat source, lighting.

I've never been a fan of the permanently attached options but I love that you can have a 'dance party' on top of it. I see this as a way better option than the GFC or pop up style shells.

Wonder if they'd be willing to take it a step farther and built it as a slide in like the fiberglass Maranda cap units...that would definitely straddle the slide in camper/bed shell market.

 

They definitely went with a quick assembly process using 3M tape for the panels. Curious why they don't offer the insulation as an option since it seems like a simple install.

 

First thing I noticed was the complete lack of insulation in there. Wouldn't want to touch that aluminum when it was down to freezing temps.

 

Someone was at my local grocery store… Had an interesting Jurassic Park lunch box holding the fuel pump for the diesel heater. I’m guessing to keep it a little quieter.

 

@Voltron4x4 did your kitchen area come with a bracket sticking out next to the fridge exhaust removable panel (to the right where I can see a vertical line of bolts and seal). I am re-doing my kitchen and wondering if you had a bracket there (i do) and any advice for removing it.

Also since I removed the original 3 way fridge, there is a hole for the old fridge exhaust. I want to seal this hole -- probably just cut a piece of aluminum and seal it on the inside. Any advice for what kind of tape to use? Was thinking to use eternabond -- would that be bad on the inside?

 

Has anyone upgraded there electrical system with conventional batteries and Inverter/Charger? My question is about what folks have used as the "chassis ground". On my previous build it was easy since the van had a steel frame. Thoughts?
Thanks

 

What makes you think you need a chassis ground in your application? <(not a sarcastic comment, I'm genuinely curious, no tone intended)

Just did a quick 3 minutes on google and consensus seems to be the negative terminal of your batteries is your ground in a Truck Camper application.

I was originally writing that my AT Habitat battery setup wasn't grounded to the chassis... but I forgot it was, lol. Battery switch only disconnected + side, not negative grounded to frame in wheel weel... But in that regard, that system was awesome. Why don't you run heavy cabling from your truck that plugs into your system? that way you can charge off your alternator, self jump-start, etc? I also had a fuse block and a big Noco 12v charger, and solar controller. Probably used the self jumping feature more than actual alternator charging before hand + portable solar was all i ever needed.