2003 Auto to Manual swap

I also installed the new power steering lines. I bought them from RockAuto and they came bolted together as a set, but I found it much easier to install them individually than trying to get them in place as a unit.

 

Worked on removing the bushings from the control arms today. Followed the AdventureTaco post, using a bearing splitter, but the job was much tougher on a truck from NJ. I had to remove the bushing first, and then remove the bushing shell. No way was it all coming out as a single piece. So far, it’s taken me about 2 hrs to get one bushing completely removed. To be fair, I have zero experience with using a hydraulic press and battled with getting everything lined up.

 

My 105 amp Vitara alternator arrived today. At some point, I plan on adding a winch to the truck. Should I do the ‘big 3’ wire upgrade since I have it all apart anyway?

 

Yes, upgrade all the wiring to make the most use of the alternator.

 

Do most folks cut their own cables? I see that JeepCables offers a kit for the 1st gen Tacomas.

 

I made my own, not sure what the savings is over a pre-made kit but they’re pretty easy to do yourself.
1/0 welding cable for the battery and starter cables, I think 4 ga for the fuse box and whatever else. Recommend running the alt to battery cable directly and bypassing the fuse box, I think that’s covered in the big 3 write ups.

$80 EWCS 1/0 Gauge Premium Extra Flexible Welding Cable 600 Volt - Red - 10 Feet - Made in The USA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CN5FIIS

0 Guage Terminals 1/0 AWG-3/8''Ring 10 PCS Battery Cable Lugs Wire Lugs,Bare Copper 0 Guage Heavy Duty Copper Tubular Lugs Battery Cable Ends Battery Terminal Connectors with 3:1 Heat Shrink Tube

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B082F392WF

 

Same experience here. Tried my best but threw my hands up and gave them to a local mechanic who used an air hammer to remove and an actual hammer to install. Fucker really beat on the UCA's . And that was on a set from SoCal. I purchased a used set from another member and put in new bushings.

 

So far I got the bushings and shells out of one control arm and one of the bushings out of the other. Not an easy job. As I said, I’m a newbie with using this hydraulic press. Do you usually clamp the piece you are working on to the press? I find it challenging to linr up the socket under one side of the control arm and then place the fitting over the bearing splitter without toppling everything over.

 

I couldn't find a bearing splitter locally. I tried using a torch but only got the rubber and not the shell. Nothing I tried worked.

 

I used a bearing splitter I bought at Harbor Freight. It took a lot of hours but I finally got the bushing shells out.


I cleaned them up a little. Once they are dry, I will install the Strongflex bushings. According to AdventureTaco, that should go much easier than removing the stock ones.

 

I've found that a fun trick that is free to get those bushings out is to use the factory jack to push them out. That being said, they TAKE OFF when they finally let go.

 

Installing the new Strongflex bushings is MUCH easier than removing the stock bushings and sleeves. Only took about 10 minutes.

 

I also strted to trial fit the new lower ball joints and the KPOffroad alignment cam kit. How critical are the little boots that go over the LBJs? Mine got a little beat up in the removal process.

 

Started working on exhaust today. I separated the headers from the pipes. I’m assuming I need gaskets for both? I think the driver side looks like a regular gasket but passenger side is more like a ball and socket.

 

Also, a couple of questions about installing the ARP stainless manifold studs. I am unable to get two of the original studs out of the passenger side head and three out of driver side. I tried Kroil, heat, the two-bolt method. Is there any harm with just leaving them and maybe getting new bolts? The threads seem ok.

I used anti-seize on the new stainless studs but did not torque them. Do they get torqued to same as original?

 

Got the headers installed, the crossover pipe and the pilot busing. The one bolt on driver side for pilot bushing was nearly impossible. In hindsight, I should’ve put the crossover on the driver side header and installed that as a unit. Unbelievable.

 

I was test fitting the master cylinder lines. I loosely put the line in the clutch master cylinder. Is the slave end (on my finger) supposed to meet up with the bracket on the firewall (on my thumb).

 

Yes, that’s where it connects to the flex line and they’re secured to the firewall. Mine was weird there too, had to twist it around a bit to fit right.
There should be a black plastic clip that your fuel lines all connect to just under the brake booster, there is an empty connection spot for the clutch line on top of that plastic clip. I can take a picture if you need.

 

Yeah. A picture would be great. I did get it to line up with the bracket with a little wiggling and persuasion.

 

I started working on cutting out the trans tunnel for the 5-speed. Before I do that, I need to drill out all the broken bolts from the console (every one broke when I removed it). What’s the best method to drill these out? I tried using my Makita electric drill, but a lot of times the bit would catch and just spin in the chuck. Are there special drill bits to use and should I get a drill with a keyed-chuck? I know I won’t be able to save the threads, but I do want to save the ‘hole location’ to re-install the console. The same thing happened to one of my seat bolts (broke) so I’m interested in learning the right way to address this.