07 4.0L NO CRANK

I installed the remote starter myself. Soldering all connections instead of using the scotchlocks provided with the kit. The tech at Crimestopper stated that unplugging the unit would isolate it from the vehicle for testing. The above issues are experienced with the unit plugged and unplugged. I'm not saying my wiring is not the problem, but it is the last thing I want to get into. You have to be a contortionist to access it.

 

Did you check the voltage at the STA fuse?
That would give you direction.

 

12v at all fuses

 

If power is good at the STA fuse then it has to be between there and the park/neutral switch (or one of the junctions in between) if you only have 6v on pin 1 of the STA relay.

 

CORRECTION: 9v at STA Fuse under hood.

If the "3" on the ign.switch diagram (B/W wire) designates pin#3 on the ign plug then I can presume that the problem starts there. I did make a connection there for the remote.

Time to peel the column...

 

Correct, the Black/White wire is pin 3 at the ignition switch.

 

Peeled the dash open and started unwrapping the loom. There is some discrepancy with the instructions Crimestopper sent. Changes in color scheme... Lacking instructions for 4 pole relay... It was 5+ years since I installed it. The solder joint on the #3 B/W wire looks good.

I decided to check voltages that energize the starter relay again. 7v ignition ON... 10v START. Shouldn't be any voltage ignition only. Just Start. If Yes? I believe the ignition switch may be the problem. Is it supposed to wiggle?

Decided to put relay back in and try. Truck starts with key and does not die when shifting past reverse.

Got some happiness but I don't think I'm out of the water yet. Ran out of daylight. I'll pick it back up tomorrow.

Thanks guys.
Dm93
whatstcp
Steves104x4
JimmyH

 

Pin 3 of the ignition switch should only have battery voltage with the key in the crank position, it shouldn't have any voltage in the run position. If it has voltage in the run position either the switch is bad or something is backfeeding the circuit.

 

I'm no expert, but if the switch is off certain posts should not be showing voltage.
This still doesn't explain where the 9v is coming from on pin 1 to energize the starter relay. I should probably find that first.

The accompanying pic shows voltages at pins. (same results with & without remote connected)

Happy Easter

 

Something is backfeeding the circuits, you say it's the same with the remote start disconnected.
The next suspect area would be one of the junction blocks, has the truck ever had water get inside the interior that you know of?

 

No flooding since I purchased it in 2017. Gonna be a chore tracing this. First I have to cut the bolts holding the fuse box to access it. Ugh!

The hill billy in me wants to run a new switch to jumper the solenoid. LMAO

 

I still suspect something with the remote start since it appears you have a backfeed on both legs of the starter relay but you say you have eliminated it.
You could unplug connector PB behind the glovebox and see if the backfeed goes away before messing with the engine room box.

 

I could have been more clear. The relay energize voltage was taken from pin 1 (B/Y wire).

Bare with me. By typing this out I am explaining it to myself.
There is a 12 pin connector in the engine room box.
There is continuity from STA Relay pin 1 (B/Y) to plug pins 4 & 5 both (B/Y).
Pin 4 should lead to the Park Neutral Switch
Pin 5 should lead to the ECM

I'm going about this backwards. In my head I heard my fathers voice, "start at the power source".
Gonna put the battery back in and start at the pin 3 (B/W) wire at the switch

I'll report back

 

I'd rather use a test light than a meter when checking powers and grounds, with a test light you are at least partially loading the circuit and it's pretty definitive, you either have a bright light or you don't.

 

Soldering wire can make it brittle and subject to braking in a vibration/flexed application

I had issues with a gantry crane that had good automation cable used except for the 2" of colored wire on each end the manufacture used to ID the leads, that joint kept braking until I replaced the full length with new cable

 

Yea if you solder a short section of wire that is getting moved all the time like say a wire in a door flex that would be a problem but a wire in a harness that is fixed is fine.

Cracking solder joints is typically only a problem with lead free solder, leaded solder doesn't tend to do that.
Lead free solder is the main reason so many of today's electronic devices suffer from cracked solder joints.
I won't use lead free solder, it's a pain to work with and suffers from the stress cracking you described above.

 

When I took the glove box out I decided to call it a day. Which one of the dozen plugs is the PB plug?
The weather will be good this week. I'll ride my bike to work.
I won't use lead free either

 

It's the 2nd one down on the white junction box left of the PCM, I have a picture with them labeled on my PC I'll post it when I get in the house.

 

Being the parts cannon that I am, it would be nice if you could try another ecm