What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

I'll do that tomorrow so I can get my door sills cleaned up! Thank you for the help that helps out big time.

 

Anytime! this should help too! also i would spray with clear coat after, i have to do this still as well

 

First hand wash of 2023. Water was still beading nicely since last wax in October.

 

Twinsies.

Same color, wheels, and tires. Will be getting my wheels painted bronze though later this spring or early summer.

 

Finally installed my radiator and hoses from mishimoto Black Friday sale. Had a leak and hoping it’s from my front main seal, so changed that out. Also my water pump, thermostat, gates pulleys and belt. Guess I should check it more often.

 

if you spend more look at Knipex. They have adjustable pliers so they can quickly slide to fit various sizes by pressing the button. Making them pretty universal and act like multiple tools in one.

And their high leverage cutters are probably the best out there in terms of strength, sharpness, and high quality strong metal

 

I could not find a good how/to for this - - I should have taken more photos and at least tried, now I feel bad - thanks


If you go up under the truck, on the drivers side of the transmission, near/on the slave cylinder - you will see a bleeder screw; looks like a nipple sort of. Mine did not have a cap on it but sometimes they have a black rubber cap on them.


You need ~2ft of hose with 1/4in inside diameter, a bottle to collect the old fluid, new dot3 brake fluid [I got the bigger bottle to be safe] and a 10mm wrench to open/close the bleeder screw.

1. Recruit a helper to push the pedal.
2. Fill the reservoir to the brim with new brake fluid.
3. Fill the old bottle with a few inches of brake fluid.
4. Attach the hose to the bleeder valve and keep the other end SUBMERGED in the bottle/brake fluid - so you don't suck air back up into the system.
5. Have helper depress and HOLD the clutch pedal down while you open the valve, let whatever come out.
6. Close the valve.
7. The helper will have to pull the clutch pedal back up.
   
8. Repeat #5-7
9. Check every 2x to make sure the reservoir stays full of fluid - so you don't get air into the system and have to start over.
10. Do this until you get clean fluid coming out/you are satisfied it has been purged.
11. Tighten the bleeder screw back down, wipe up ANY brake fluid you spilled; I used a rag with some degreaser on it - especially up near the reservoir b/c it will eat your paint and who knows what else.

I also checked the bleeder screw a few times afterword just to make sure there were no leaks - it is a pressurized system, so leaks should be apparent but I am just paranoid like that.

For me, it gurgled/made some noise the first few pumps, took maybe 4 pumps before the fluid moved smoothy thru the line - - and it seemed like there was some air in the system, so I just kept repeating until there was a clear stream and no air coming out of the hose..
It is not like you can save brake fluid for later use anyways - -

I was actually trying to delete the accumulator but I couldn't get the damn thing off b/c I couldn't get the top two bolts off of it due to not having the right tools for the crazy [lack of] clearance up there.

Anyways - I apologized if this was a bit granular or long winded but I hope this helps.

 

I have a couple pair of Knipex that I sue for other things.

 

did part of this the other day; pulleys (belt already done)
will probably go back in again later to do the WP

pulleys were toast. WP pulley extremely slight sound while hand rotating, but didn't feel play in any direction (170k mi); maybe will do hoses

put away the tensioner to do later
I wonder if you replaced the serp belt tensioner;
held it in my hand looking at where it goes, thing seemed like a PITA that'd add hours to the work
mounting bracket on it turns sideways 90deg suggesting it has to sandwich to the engine between whatever bolts to it, likely A/C compressor or alternator (I forget which one it is)
to take off belt, unbolt and swing out of the way, to gain access to the tensioner bracket

 

you’re a saint! Thanks!

 

You can take a look at page 6 of my ‘restoration’ thread. I went a little further on the repair and preventive maintenance for that same issue. Mine was worse.

 

My main concern was my main seal n decided to do everything while I had it apart…yeah, that tensioner, I just pulled the pulley off and used that…that tensioner can get done if I have to change out my alternator

 

So I ran the line up from the diff and zip tied it to the brake line mount. Above this mount there is a hole in the frame to run it through. Run it back a little bit in the frame and there is another hole near the bump stop strike plate thing. Then just run straight up to the cubby within the bedside.

 

I installed some 1.25" spidertrax spacers today. I was changing out winters for summers, so tires are different, same tire size and identical stock wheels. Truck is getting old, trying to keep it interesting...

 

Wait, thats the jack point? I was going just behind the "window" since that is where the OEM jack point is. I thought that raised part of the Skids was for more space for the front differential?

 

It is NOT the jack point. It IS to give clearance for the front diff. I'll be happy to eat my words if someone links to the RCI instructions saying this is the jack point.

 

Are those the total chaos tab gussets? I've gotta get mine done as well one of my tabs are bent luckily I have a buddy that has welded a few sets on. How is the alignment?

 

I stand corrected.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rci-front-skid-mod.654059/

 

Total chaos cam tab gussets and Poly Performance taco tabs. Alignment is okay being done by a "master tech" at Firestone. I am looking into getting it really dialed in at a local shop that specializes in lifted trucks with aftermarket suspension components.

 

Yesterday I installed the Bird Dawg Industries mirror riser and the extreme tech deck. I am not that tall (5’8”) but this mirror riser has really increased visibility. Happy with this mod. Especially right as I prepare to do almost 800 miles (round trip) driving for work this week.