Needle Bearing - Yes, Replace It (ECGS)

If you readyto sell that tool please let me know.

Thanks

 

Awesome info here. I’m having ECGS do mine this Friday when they do my Re-Gear.

 

Ask for a T-shirt while you’re there. Great people.

 

Will do!

 

I got a local shop that quoted more than $900 for the ECGS bushing work. That’s labor alone. There are worse shops out there.
I searched different places and either gonna go with a shop little further away for $350 labor or do it myself.

 

Yeah! That is insane. It is a 2.5 hr job. Shop rates should be in the $150/hr range. $300-$450 labor is reasonable for a shop with overhead.

 

I think the shop that did mine charged $225 with the bushing included

 

That's an insanely good deal... The parts alone are 86 dollars (if I remember correctly) plus gear oil replacement that was lost and new crush washer. I run a shop out of my house (no overhead) and I charge $200 labor plus parts.

 

wait, am I getting something incorrect?
with the tools needed(?), it comes out nearly $200.

 

Nope…that is correct with the bushing, new seal, the removal tool, the bushing install tool, and the seal tool. You can remove some of the tools and the seal for savings, if you want.

Don’t forget to find the TW coupon code for free shipping…

 

I just did mine over the weekend, wasn't too bad. My local dealership quoted me a little over $500, and that was with me providing the bearing, new seal, AND letting them keep the bearing removal tool. Suffice to say, that gave me enough motivation to figure it out myself. You can get away with skipping out on the bushing/seal install tool as well. I took my new seal to a hardware store and just matched it up with a pvc pipe coupler, then used that along with a bearing race install kit I rented from Autozone to drive everything home.

 

I mean back when I did it the part was like $40 tools are tools, and I hardly lost any fluid-maybe 1/2 a baby dixie cup. I didn't bother to replace it.

 

Toyota notoriously underfills the diffs so I top every diff off when I do the bushings. I also am working on them on a level surface so I loose more than if you jack up the driver side and to the work with the truck tilted (which is another trick to keep fluid in them)

 

I ordered the whole pack, but didn't end up replacing the axle seal because it didn't seem like it was damaged from bearing extraction. I did clean up the seal and carefully inspected it before reinstalling the axle. I've been keeping an eye on it, but I have seen any evidence of it leaking oil since I did the swap on Saturday. So its possible to do it without replacing the seal. But I would recommend having a replacement seal on hand in case it is damaged.

 

Yeah, I bought it to have it on hand when I do mine. Hoping I don't need it, but for $22 (or whatever it was), it was peace-of-mind. And I usually get heavy handed on these tasks, so I am confident I am going to eff the stock one up....LOL.

 

I agree, it can be done but I always replace just for the peace of mind and already being there. $22 is cheap insurance in case something happens you don't see.

 

thanks for the advice.
Whether I take it to the shop or do it myself, I will order the full kit.

 

mine was toast at 80k miles when i replaced it with the EGCS boi. 2nd gen but still, yea toyota likes to cling on to drivetrain parts for dear life. idk why

 

Did mine today, using the EGCS puller, and only basic hand tools, took my time and it took me 5 hours, including moving 3 motorcycles, one Kubota and one car.. no issues, spent 15 minutes pulling the CV, even though I kept rotating it, I froze the bushing for 3 days, and it also took me some time to get it seated. I dropped all skid plates, and also dropped the sway bar. Then removed the axle nut, and loosened the two 17mm nuts on the lower control arm. I pulled the axle out of the front hub first, then I used rubber bungees off the coil spring to support it, and climbed under to hit the axle end near the diff.. the bungees let me spin it after a few hits using a long 45 degree flat breaker bar.
It was a methodical approach I’ll check my seal tonight with a clean blue paper towel for any seepage and likely post my removal tool for 50 plus shipping within a week or so.. today is 4/11/23.
The tool worked good, I did have to bevel the back edges to get it in the slot behind the needle bearing, after I did that, it was easy to assemble and pull.
I have over 50 years of home wrenching, Bikes, and jeeps before YouTube.. I broke down and got a front end socket set at harbor freight for 50 which included the 35 mm axle socket..
Glad it’s done, vibration went away, have 20k on 2019 TRD, 8k of it since my home installed OME 887’s lift.
Vibration was a fine fast harmonic vibe, felt only through the steering wheel and gas pedal.. bearing was fully intact when removed and very, very, very little end play was observed prior to removal..
My front diff was under filled from the factory, and I used a Mity Vac to top it off.

 

Next time I do one I will take my time and take a lot of pictures and do a write up to save people a lot of time. It can be done if everything is smooth in 2-2.5 hours. Maybe I will post it in its own thread. I do them without touching the axle nut etc. It is a little tricky but you can minimize disassembly and most people don't have the large socket.