What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

What worked for me first was grabbing the hose with needlenose pliers and just trying to muscle the hose up and down (don't even try to remove it) just to break it's seal. Once that has broken loose a screwdriver can typically easily push it off.

Remove the lower bolt on the motor to take the plenum off with the bracket. You'll at least be able to then get at it from off the truck. From there an extractor socket or welding a nut to the top of the bolt head should be easily doable.

 

Just an aluminum Leer topper. 50.00 off of FB marketplace and it cleaned up pretty nice.

 

Rebooted and regreased one of my RCVs on my lunch. I was having a click in the front end while I was in 4wd. Swapped my oem cvs in and it fixed the problem. I had both the outer boot straps break on the RCVs right after I got them last year and I just re strapped it but apparently that wasn’t a good enough fix. There still seemed to be a good amount of grease but either way I’m hoping this fixes the problem.

 

Was able to use an extractor socket to get out the stripped bolt, thanks y'all.

Reassembling the valve covers and when tightening the bolts to 56 in/lbs per FSM my new torque wrench just...never clicked and I've overtightened one bolt to the point that the head and the washer sheared off...how bad is that and what is my recourse here? Nervous to do anything more now considering the torque wrench clearly didn't engage at all

 

I'm gonna test the torque wrench on a lug nut and if it works proceed for now. Gonna call a mechanic for a quote on what to to do with the sheared bolt afterwards, I def don't have the tools for that

 

My guess is you confused in lb and ft lbs. If you're torque wrench goes high enough to do a lug nut them it's probably reads ft lbs

 

No it's def in-lbs, I just went out and bought it because my other torque wrench is 20-150 ft-lbs

It doesn't go high enough to do a lug nut my thinking is that I can test for whether or not the click indicator is working at all by tightening something that's way tighter spec since it should engage before I do anything to the lug nut

that being said it's a 1/4" drive so I'm not sure I have any lug-nut sized sockets with a 1/4" drive

 

Well that's unfortunate, chances are the snapped off one will come out easily. I just do valve covers by hand. And I use a digital torque wrench that reads live for fiddly stuff into aluminum to avoid this kinda thing.

 

Can you take the valve cover back off, might be able to get some vise grips on the bolt. Also I like to get all the bolts started and tight then hit it with a torque wrench.

 

I did all 8 hand tight and then was going with the torque wrench. Guess I could have overtightened by hand here?

I'll remove the valve cover again and see if I can get the bolt out. What should I look for on the valve cover, is there a chance I've cracked it?

Need to look up what size bolts these are but if anyone knows quickly or where in the FSM it would be that'd be much appreciated

 

People have cracked their covers before, but you might have just been unlucky because the last guy that did them stretched the bolt. Hard to tell. Hopefully no cracks though, if you did manage to crack it used valve covers are plentiful at least.

 

Managed to get the bolt out with some pliers after removing the valve cover, thanks for the help everyone.

Gonna call the dealership tomorrow to see if they stock those bolts (and 1 extra intake plenum gasket because I accidentally bought only one). Do they spark plugs from Toyota come pre-gapped or will I need to gap them myself?

 

The plugs from Toyota are pre gapped

 

Slides are in... finally!
Drilled and tapped (only broke one) L track. Not sure I'll be putting enough load on it to warrant a bolt and nut through the 1" square... but we shall see. Version 5.0 (I think. Lost track how many iterations of this frame have taken place)
Threw the fridge on slides also to have an extra table but to also be able to remove it easily. Can't wait to build the kitchen out on the left. Need to take it for a test run ro see how and where I like things.
Angle hot roll stainless 3/16 rivets to the 52" slides Aluminum angle for the fridge slide using 1/4 inch aluminum rivets and then sheet metal screws on the bottom through existing holes (should hold up)
New 3/16 tabs also for the top corners and middle to support the platform. The l track took over the lip it use to sit on.
Now to digure out how to fasten all the top plates and where the water port will live. Lots of little things but they make such a big difference when out.

I estimate the setup to be over 100# at this point... dry thought about wood but then I couldn't teach myself how to weld. Been a super fun and useful project.

 

Been fighting some fitment issues, a set of offset spacers and a little chop,chop.and, no more rubbing. Although my brakes feel mushy now ,i wonder if I bent my brake lines wrong or something.
My cv shaft was rubbing my shock. The other side was worse. Changing the offset made a lot more room.

When I turned the wheel to full lock ,the tierod would push the dust cover into the disk which made a godawful noise.

 

That's a passenger side outer tie rod.

 

I thought the tie rod was just installed upside down, but then I realized he has the new uni ball lower ball joint conversion.

 

I just used bolts from advance auto. Take the old one and match it up with what they have in stock

 

Where did you get the new misalignment spacers? I've got a similar issue of rub from my cv

 

I did a thing

https://youtube.com/shorts/-RHbC1tSnDg?feature=share